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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

Try again - I posted the same thread in the wrong forum. Oops! >:)

I've just bought a 2005 Touareg V10 and I'm looking at doing some fairly serious mods to get 33s under the arches.

Has anyone done this here?

I'll be off-roading it and using the centre and rear diff-lock fully. I'm also looking at what's involved in fitting a front diff-lock.

I'm looking into the possibility of a subframe lift to be able to get extra room for the tyres.
 

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Please click on User CP to update your location.


Good luck with the mods.
 

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I've got 33s (275/70/18) on my V8 and it really didn't take much work at all. I hammered the front of the rockers quite a bit and that was it. Oh, and I have wheel spacers. I honestly don't even think i needed to hammer it as much as I did. Other than that, you'd just have to move the intercoolers forward at the front of the wheel wells, which has been well document here on the forum.
 

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US rockers = GB sills.


I should have recognised an English street from the pavement alone in your profile picture!


Happy Magic Roundabouting!! I remember the day it opened when it was just piles of tyres. Didn't bother with the arrows - just selected my exit and went straight for it!!


And for our American chums, here's the aerial view of 5 mini-roundabouts arranged around a larger, central, 6th roundabout in the Op's home town . . . and, no, I still haven't a frickin' clue how to get round it nearly 50 years later and as for the poor girl on my SATNAV, she goes effing mental!!


 

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Hi all,

<snip>
I'll be off-roading it and using the centre and rear diff-lock fully. I'm also looking at what's involved in fitting a front diff-lock.
<snip>
I've never driven the V10 but I have experimented in our V8 off road with various settings on the diff lock dial (open, rear, rear + center). In powder snow, slushy snow and on pure ice my V8 works much better with the diffs open and unlocked. Open diffs also worked better on ours crawling slowly over rocks and decomposed granite. This was for uphill, downhill and flat terrain. Tires/tyres are Goodyear Wrangler - 265/65-17.

Locked diffs worked better in gravel deeper than just decomposed granite, sand and some mud. Took me hours to clean after the mud so I don't do that much. :)

I can't figure out how to post a youtube link without the video embedding so go to https://www.youtube.com/user/hiracing/search?query=touareg and scroll down to "Sliding Truck". It's a traditional Dodge 4x4, locked diffs, much trouble. Touraeg in same spot did fine with open diffs.

"Hill Climb - May 17 2014" shows ascending a steep hill in low range, open diffs. If you watch that one make sure the audio is on - my wife did *not* want to go over that hill. :D

Welcome to the club and have fun! I can't be trusted with this platform and the power of a V10. :)

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've never driven the V10 but I have experimented in our V8 off road with various settings on the diff lock dial (open, rear, rear + center). In powder snow, slushy snow and on pure ice my V8 works much better with the diffs open and unlocked. Open diffs also worked better on ours crawling slowly over rocks and decomposed granite. This was for uphill, downhill and flat terrain. Tires/tyres are Goodyear Wrangler - 265/65-17.

Locked diffs worked better in gravel deeper than just decomposed granite, sand and some mud. Took me hours to clean after the mud so I don't do that much. :)

I can't figure out how to post a youtube link without the video embedding so go to https://www.youtube.com/user/hiracing/search?query=touareg and scroll down to "Sliding Truck". It's a traditional Dodge 4x4, locked diffs, much trouble. Touraeg in same spot did fine with open diffs.

"Hill Climb - May 17 2014" shows ascending a steep hill in low range, open diffs. If you watch that one make sure the audio is on - my wife did *not* want to go over that hill. :D

Welcome to the club and have fun! I can't be trusted with this platform and the power of a V10. :)

Good luck!
Thanks for the info.

I have some experience off-road with other vehicles. It'll be mud / gravel etc on green-lanes within the UK that it gets used on as well as in the winter.

You're spot on about ice and snow, diff-locks are not the place for these. Diff-locks in those conditions just remove control and you end up sliding sideways as per the profile of the street.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I thought that I should update this thread as well as the main thread on the V10 as people like me may be looking for this information in the future.

The 33s are on... but they catch! No surprise there.





They're 275/70R18s, which measure up as 33.17" tall (according to the maths!)

The front wheels/tyres catch... the rears don't. I won't be looking at anything to do with the rears so any referrals to 'front or rear' will be about the front arch... just to save any confusion later ;)

The tyres catch only when turning and at a specific position, not all of the time.

At the front, they catch on the arch liner and behind that is the intercooler with ducting. They don't catch the bumper.



At the back, they catch on the arch liner and behind that... is the sill :( That's not an easy fix.



I only had a few hours so I concentrated on the intercoolers to start with.

So, off with the arch liners. These were both damaged from previous owners so I didn't feel bad about cutting them rather than trying to modify them.

I cut the section out with the vents in and that was it. I will look at some fine mesh grills to put over the intercooler rear face to protect them against stones and mud. For now, they're open to the elements.



Cutting the grill out (and the section that sticks back the most) wasn't going to be enough as the tyres were catching on the intercooler rear ducts as well.

I pulled the front bumper off and had a close look at the mountings.





The top intercooler mounts, I can't get to without dismantling lots more and I figured that by moving the bottom forwards, I would probably get the room that I need.

Here's the bottom mounting and me carefully removing all of the bracket that is part of the intercooler.



With that lump removed, I also had to slightly modify the front mounting part to give clearance for the intercooler to swing fowards. We're only talking mm here but every bit counts.

Once cleaned up, I drilled a hole through the remaining bracket (it's doesn't go into the intercooler chamber) and used the an M6 nut for the original fixing bolt to screw into.



And with the pipe back in position, you can see how much it's moved forwards.



Here's the other side with a few more detailed photos.









On the left hand side, the intercooler was now pushing against an intercooler pipe. A slight 'manipulation' with a pry bar in the right place was all that was needed to move it and allow the two parts to live happily together again :)

With everything buttoned back up again, it's clear to see how much more room there is.





The rear of the arches will be next but that's going to involve cutting and welding.
 

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Good post. Pictures always help.

I hope you cleaned out the bulkhead (plenum chamber) drain on each side whilst you had the front liners off?
 

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I did the same. Good work.
 

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I strongly suggest adding wire mesh between your ICs and wheels.... those mudders will throw all sorts of debris at your ICs and will both clog and damage the cooling fins.... if it was my vehicle, I'd go as far as making some custom louvered sheet metal panels to still allow airflow\drainage but to protect the ICs.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have seen quite a few custom intercoolers consolidated and relocated to the top-end of the engine bay. Is this something that you are apt to do? I'm not a mechanic, but I am mechanically inclined, and can fabricate.

some inspiration.....





Great photos and sources for inspiration.

I love those snorkels but they're ££££ and they only make one for the right hand side. I've spoken to them about making the mirror image for the left but they're not interested :(

Moving the intercoolers is something that I was thinking about when carrying out the work.

However, this is primarily a tow-vehicle with a serious lean towards off-road ability. I (or the owner) won't be climbing vertical mud banks with it.

I was fairly dismayed to find that the 33s mean cutting the front ends of the sills but there's no help for it. Even with a body lift, they'll catch on full compression.
 

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Airflow to that Top Mount is horrible.... don't follow that idea.
If you're gonna do anything, do a FMIC or if you go top mount like that, use a reverse scoop to expel the hot ait through the hood.

example...


You will clearly have to duct fresh air into it from the front end somewhere....
 

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Airflow to that Top Mount is horrible.... don't follow that idea.
If you're gonna do anything, do a FMIC or if you go top mount like that, use a reverse scoop to expel the hot ait through the hood.

You will clearly have to duct fresh air into it from the front end somewhere....
Yep I thought about the heat build-up as well. Any way to relocate the current intercoolers in front of the radiator with some fans?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Airflow to that Top Mount is horrible.... don't follow that idea.
If you're gonna do anything, do a FMIC or if you go top mount like that, use a reverse scoop to expel the hot ait through the hood.

example...


You will clearly have to duct fresh air into it from the front end somewhere....
I agree, it's not great but when you look into the engine bay of a V10, you realise that there is no space for a top-mounted intercooler... let alone two.

 

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I suggest just putting 31.6 inch tall tires, as downsides (driveability, additional work) of going to 33 doesn't outweigh the additional benefits.

Just put 265/65/18 (or 265/70/17), they should fit with no modification. Also, this is the same size that Cayenne Transsyberia rally cars used back in the day.
 

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Yep I thought about the heat build-up as well. Any way to relocate the current intercoolers in front of the radiator with some fans?
It all depends on your creativity and\or customizing ability.
When you typically stuff a FMIC in a vehicle that wasn't designed for one, you need to create space\airflow for it. This usually means compromising bumper structure, etc. Custom bumpers are also an option.

There's also no point in fans on FMICs.... fans add airflow when there isn't any.... typically when you're not moving.... your IATs won't be high if you're just idling, because you're not boosting, etc.... once you start moving, there's natural occurring airflow and thus the fans become redundant.
 

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I suggest just putting 31.6 inch tall tires, as downsides (driveability, additional work) of going to 33 doesn't outweigh the additional benefits.

Just put 265/65/18 (or 265/70/17), they should fit with no modification. Also, this is the same size that Cayenne Transsyberia rally cars used back in the day.
That just doesn't sound fun. 32s (275/65/18) fit pretty much fine, FWIW. Progression is good. Progression is what drives our hobby.
 
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