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Just as an FYI, you typically want to let the new ECU 'settle' for 1-2 weeks before making any comparisons or dyno followups. In every single instance of car that I've tuned, there is a 'settling' period (in varying days by every vehicle) where the ECU has to some how get acclimated to the new tune/hardware etc. I'm sure that the cooler air added some power (depending what air temp was on dyno day vs that 67* day you spoke of), but likely the ECU settled in AND the cooler air temps are the difference you were feeling. If you were to re-dyno it right now with zero other changes, I bet those numbers are even higher.
What?
 

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You're going to have to be more specific on which part you're confused about.
 

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You're going to have to be more specific on which part you're confused about.
I've never heard of a tune "settling" ever. Performance can vary for numerous reasons but the ECU only gathers data and reacts accordingly. When reading data, it may have variances but it'll operate between the parameters it was programmed with. And Yes, I've had several tuned vehicles ranging from an all motor B16 (240whp/210tq) to a 400whp/380tq HKS Supercharged 340z. My Touareg made less HP than advertised for a Malone Stage 2 with all the DPF things installed. My CC R Line and Tiguan R Line ran like monsters on IE Stage 2s kits... just seems kinda strange you'd tell someone that a tune needs to settle.
 

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I've never heard of a tune "settling" ever. Performance can vary for numerous reasons but the ECU only gathers data and reacts accordingly. When reading data, it may have variances but it'll operate between the parameters it was programmed with. And Yes, I've had several tuned vehicles ranging from an all motor B16 (240whp/210tq) to a 400whp/380tq HKS Supercharged 340z. My Touareg made less HP than advertised for a Malone Stage 2 with all the DPF things installed. My CC R Line and Tiguan R Line ran like monsters on IE Stage 2s kits... just seems kinda strange you'd tell someone that a tune needs to settle.
Tune settling, often called other things, is spoken of often on boards. Especially German cars and certain Japanese cars it seems.
Out of the dozens of cars I've tuned there has always been a period of adjustment needed (well, at least the newer cars w/ modern ecu's, nixing the 90s stuff). Actually, on second thought, even my 90s 7.3 powerstroke I tuned there was at least a few days for the tune to settle for the truck to run and perform optimally.
 

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I know my experience doesn't account to much around our community, but for what it's worth, every car "I've tuned" (read not drive my car to shop and have them flash my ecu, or install a chip, etc.... but actually make changes to the STAND ALONE fuel\timing\pressure maps), has always done EXACTLY the adjustment that I told it to do with those values..... from the moment it fired up (or attempted to, since many times it didn't, or it died, or it flooded, or it back-fired etc), to when I turned it off.... each day, every day, every month, any time of day or night, etc. I've never had "said tune" get better or worse over time due to it becoming more accustomed to my engine compartment, or the driver, or through it's own experience, etc.

DISCLAIMER - I've only even owned 2 diesels in my life, so it's highly possible that I don't know what I'm talking about.
Additional Disclaimer - The above happened on a Turbo Gasser.... the engine had less valves than both my diesels... maybe diesel "tunes" need to settle first. :cool:
 

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Even a brand new ECM straight from VW/Audi requires adaptations to be performed. Some require a scan tool, and some are done by the ECM on it's own. The same would apply to tuning an ECM. It's essentially starting over and re-learning all the parameters and adaptation values. I'd assume this is what's meant by settling?
 

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I must say, I read through a lot of these posts, however it got to a point where there's so much off topic and arguing/discussing random things like metallurgy and stuff like that, I was unable to find the actual information related to to the original topic of power mods/upgrades. :unsure:

Maybe a summary on the original post or links to major/key information on the main post would be helpful as there's over 500 posts.

I was hoping to learn more than I did regarding upgrades.
 

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Discussion Starter #549
Yes that is because HP is a technical discussion.

My original post was about getting a proper 330 HP out of an otherwise stock vehicle while maintaining or improving stock lag.

Many ideas were tossed around. But right now we are all essentially waiting on results of Yrk’s Frankenstein turbo build which should put modem guts in the CNRB turbo housing and be a bolt on upgrade + tune.

The other option is to upgrade to a bigger turbo, shift the torque band to the right and introduce more lag. Or switch to the bi-turbo from an S series Audi TDI. Which would require answering a lot of technical questions.

So once Yrk’s turbos are available they will have to get mounted and dyno’d to see how they perform.

Does that help at all?
 

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Discussion Starter #550
I must say, I read through a lot of these posts, however it got to a point where there's so much off topic and arguing/discussing random things like metallurgy and stuff like that, I was unable to find the actual information related to to the original topic of power mods/upgrades. :unsure:

Maybe a summary on the original post or links to major/key information on the main post would be helpful as there's over 500 posts.

I was hoping to learn more than I did regarding upgrades.
There really aren’t a lot of bolt on upgrades right now. There are tune options to get maybe +50 hp and +90 ftlbs, there may be a few intercooler mods available but probably not pure bolt one. There are turbo upgrades and fuel pump upgrades, and of course emissions delete options.

What else are you looking to know?
 

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Actually, yes it does. I wasn’t trying to be rude or anything, sorry if it seemed that way.

I’m curious to see this as well, I don’t want to get into replacing a lot to get some decent power - mostly for cost reasons.


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Discussion Starter #553
I’m curious to see this as well, I don’t want to get into replacing a lot to get some decent power - mostly for cost reasons.
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What is decent power?

As I understand it with a stock TDI you can get 260-270 HP and ~480 ftlbs with nothing more than a chip. But is this considered decent power?
 

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Actually, yes it does. I wasn’t trying to be rude or anything, sorry if it seemed that way.

I’m curious to see this as well, I don’t want to get into replacing a lot to get some decent power - mostly for cost reasons.


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I posted this earlier but this is what mine made. I’ll have to contact Malone when I’m back in the states to see if I can do better. Here’s a Stage 2 with DPF dyno chart.



Next would be the TCM.
 

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Discussion Starter #555
My whole goal in this thread was to get 330 HP and a nice flat torque curve for towing. From what I can tell it'll be tough to get 300 HP from a stock engine and turbo..... so this thread talks about turbo upgrades as well...
 

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My whole goal in this thread was to get 330 HP and a nice flat torque curve for towing. From what I can tell it'll be tough to get 300 HP from a stock engine and turbo..... so this thread talks about turbo upgrades as well...
I think CATA will have a huge advantage over CNRB for power. I’ve seen many CP3 pump kits for the CATA. Power levels can get pretty high. Paired with a S200 turbo off a John Deere, I’ve seen some crazy numbers. But the cost must be crazy too.


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Discussion Starter #557
I think CATA will have a huge advantage over CNRB for power. I’ve seen many CP3 pump kits for the CATA. Power levels can get pretty high. Paired with a S200 turbo off a John Deere, I’ve seen some crazy numbers. But the cost must be crazy too.


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You lost me. Why would CATA be better (what year is that)?

The goal here isn’t necissarily max power. That’d be easy just throw a diesel truck turbo on and retune.

The goal here is simple (though I could just add a low RPM turbo and hit my goals.... it wouldn’t be as simple as what’s being discussed).

Also there is a CP3 for the CNRB not to mention no shortage of high flow CP3s thanks to the diesel truck crowd. So 550 might be possible with an S200 hybrid to a S100. But why go that route.

Here is what is possible.

 

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Tune settling, often called other things, is spoken of often on boards. Especially German cars and certain Japanese cars it seems.
Out of the dozens of cars I've tuned there has always been a period of adjustment needed (well, at least the newer cars w/ modern ecu's, nixing the 90s stuff). Actually, on second thought, even my 90s 7.3 powerstroke I tuned there was at least a few days for the tune to settle for the truck to run and perform optimally.
Right. I think its' just a matter of semantics here.... The tune is good to go from the rip. But what ends up happening is all the readiness monitors are cleared... It takes a couple hundred miles for me to get them all to clear once again. So I agree that things will not perform properly for sure until all of those are ready, but that would also be true on the stock vehicle... and ofcourse any type of vehicle learning that needs to happen for the ECU as well. (I know our WRX does this for sure, but its' almost un-noticeable because the monitors will clear within 50 miles or less of driving ) ... my Q5 TDI takes hundreds like 400-500 before all the monitors clear, and even on the stock tune I can notice the difference.
 

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Right. I think its' just a matter of semantics here.... The tune is good to go from the rip. But what ends up happening is all the readiness monitors are cleared... It takes a couple hundred miles for me to get them all to clear once again. So I agree that things will not perform properly for sure until all of those are ready, but that would also be true on the stock vehicle... and ofcourse any type of vehicle learning that needs to happen for the ECU as well. (I know our WRX does this for sure, but its' almost un-noticeable because the monitors will clear within 50 miles or less of driving ) ... my Q5 TDI takes hundreds like 400-500 before all the monitors clear, and even on the stock tune I can notice the difference.
100%. I just happened to use poor wording.

Can you point me to the right direction and info on the cp3 pump for CNRB.
Here :
 
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