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I'm a new 2012 Volkswagen touareg tdi owner and I was curious if the dpf system was a hassle to deal with? My wife will be the main driver. She drives to work one way 5 miles. So it'll get roughly 10 miles of highway driving and a few miles of town driving on an average day. On weekends it will pull a small trailer occasionally in the summer time. I live in CO so there will be long cold idle warm ups in the winter time. I was hoping to hear some input by someone that has more actual experience with the system in the touareg. My experiences with the dpf systems on the duramax trucks has not been great.
 

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My experience with the car generally and the DPF particularly has been good. Had the car from new since 2012.


There are some months that I do not drive on long trips and only potter around locally. A couple of times the DPF warning light has come on so I make an effort to do an extra trip for about half an hour on a freeway near us. Manually select a gear to keep the revs above 2000 and this will allow a passive regeneration of the DPF.


A few months ago there was a weird warning DPF warning light to refer to the Owner's Manual. That was no help so I got an independent garage near me to help. They found no problem with either ash or soot build-up in the DPF but that the light was on because the DPF service interval had to be reset. They got a code from the VW mothership and reset the engine management software. No further problem.
 

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In the winter particularly short trips aren't the cars best friend. It takes a fair amount of time to get up to operating temps,so going 5 miles and stopping is just about the time it takes to get where the car is warmed up. You need a small E-car for that LOL.
 

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They found no problem with either ash or soot build-up in the DPF but that the light was on because the DPF service interval had to be reset. They got a code from the VW mothership and reset the engine management software. No further problem.
Afaik there's no such thing on any Touareg as a "DPF service interval" (other than the DPF getting clogged and needing replacement, of course), and the only things that a dealership has to get a code from VW in order to carry out are the immobilizer/key codings, and possibly the firmware updates.

So, whatever your car had, and whatever they've done to it, I'm pretty sure it wasn't a DPF service interval reset.
 

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They are referring to the service interval book where it recommends checking the soot and ash levels of the DPF at 120,000 miles (not sure of the mileage) using the scanner as a preemptive check. They might recommend replacement based on the readings so someone does not get stranded in limp mode somewhere.

You don't need the dealer to replace the DPF if you have a VAGCOM to reset the levels to zero for the new one.

I had to replace the DPF early on my previous 2010 Touareg TDI because the previous owner drove it 5 mins to work every day.



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Afaik there's no such thing on any Touareg as a "DPF service interval" (other than the DPF getting clogged and needing replacement, of course), and the only things that a dealership has to get a code from VW in order to carry out are the immobilizer/key codings, and possibly the firmware updates.

So, whatever your car had, and whatever they've done to it, I'm pretty sure it wasn't a DPF service interval reset.

Perhaps I used an incorrect expression calling it a service interval. The fact remains, a DPF warning light came on stating to refer to the owner's manual. There is no information in the owner's manual about what to do if this light comes on. I tried driving on the freeway for a couple of hours but the light stayed on. I phoned the VW dealer and their advice was that the DPF may need to be replaced, but that they would scan, check and confirm if I brought the car in.



Instead I went to an independent garage where the technicians were also puzzled about what this warning light means. So they got advice from VW technical, hence their recommendation was to reset, tricking the ECU to believe that the DPF had been replaced. The warning light went off and no further issues in this respect.


Do you have another explanation regarding the warning light and the fix?


I should add that there was nothing wrong with the DPF and they detected only negligible particle build-up at the time.
 

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Instead I went to an independent garage where the technicians were also puzzled about what this warning light means. So they got advice from VW technical, hence their recommendation was to reset, tricking the ECU to believe that the DPF had been replaced. The warning light went off and no further issues in this respect.
So, then most likely your DPF was actually full (or recognized as being full by the ECU), and they reset the effective ash counter to zero. Because that's how you "trick the ECU to believe that DPF had been replaced", that's what you have to do when you've replaced the DPF filter.

That's a very dangerous thing to do though (ie. resetting the ash counter without actually replacing the DPF), because it could very well cause the DPF to catch fire and burn the entire car down at a regeneration later on.

I'm not saying this is what the garage did, but what you're saying implies that this is what they did. Then again, unless we'd the know exact fault codes that triggered the DPF light and the exact technical procedure the garage did (not just a vague description of it in layman terms), we can't be sure.
 

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I have a post emissions fix '13 TDI. I've put about 21K miles on it (97K currently). I haven't really had any issues so far with the emissions system. It uses about $12 (2.5 gallons from Autozone or O'reilly's) worth of DEF every 3000 or so miles when I'm not towing and about 2.5 gallons per 600-700 miles when towing near max tow.



The only complaint I have with DEF is that I have to clear the trunk area to access the filler under the spare tire. My other complaint is that they don't put a gasket on the tank lid so it inevitable sloshes some out when full, which evaporates and leaves some white residue behind. Not a huge deal, just wipe it down with a wet cloth every once in a while.


As far as winter warm up, my 2013 warms up in about 7 minute on a 25 F degree day. VW may offer a block heater to preheat everything, but I've never thought to check before now to see if one is available. I haven't really found a way to start it up in the winter like I can with other cars as I don't like leaving a running unlocked car unattended.


I've heard that short trips and low temps aren' the greatest for the DPF filters. But if you go on longer trips or tow with it it should help to burn the soot from it.


Maybe someone on here knows more about the regeneration options for the DPFs??
 

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The only complaint I have with DEF is that I have to clear the trunk area to access the filler under the spare tire. My other complaint is that they don't put a gasket on the tank lid so it inevitable sloshes some out when full, which evaporates and leaves some white residue behind. Not a huge deal, just wipe it down with a wet cloth every once in a while.
On later models they put the filler next to the regular fuel filler opening under the tank flap, which solves all these issues. I have no clue who thought originally that putting it under the boot floor would be a good idea.

Maybe someone on here knows more about the regeneration options for the DPFs??
There are not many options, if at all. DPF regeneration mostly happens automatically, under the control of the ECU, and the driver has generally no influence over it - he can't start it and can't stop it either, other than of course turning the car off or not driving the car.

There are generally three kinds of regenerations: passive, active and emergency. Passive happens when the engine has warmed up so much and you're driving it so intensely, that the exhaust gases burn the soot just by their sheer temperature. This obviously only happens on longer trips and high speed drives on highways. If the amount of soot in the DPF is not getting decimated by this way and is getting too high, the ECU might also start active regeneration, using post-combustion fuel injection which will burn in the DPF. If that's not effective either (because of too short trips) an emergency regeneration might be needed which is initiated by service equipment/personnel, which is similar to active regeneration, but is done regardless of speed, temperature and soot constraints.

These are all the "options" for DPF regeneration, but as said, the driver (without service equipment) can neither initiate nor prevent or stop regeneration manually.
 

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The dealer replaced my DPF last week under warranty (75,000 miles). Technician said he has never seen one go bad before. My code was "damaged or missing substrate". My car never idles and we don't warm it up. in fact, we live 135 miles from a traffic light, so it is all highway driving. I am hoping and expecting it to be an anomaly. Prior to the incident, the car was regenerating frequently, based on my observation of fuel economy (normally about 28 mpg on the highway, but closer to 22 when in regen).

Contrary to your experience with a Duramax, mine is cruising along at 170,000 miles on the original DPF.

If you did have to buy one, a Touareg DPF appears to cost less than half of what an equivalent Duramax unit runs.
 

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I'm not saying this is what the garage did, but what you're saying implies that this is what they did. Then again, unless we'd the know exact fault codes that triggered the DPF light and the exact technical procedure the garage did (not just a vague description of it in layman terms), we can't be sure.

No fault codes at all, no ash/soot build-up in the DPF, no dangerous conditions. The car was running perfectly and still does, the only problem was a spurious message on the driver's display "DPF: Refer Owner's manual"


The technicians explained what they did to remove the message and why. I am happy to leave it at that.
 

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No fault codes at all, no ash/soot build-up in the DPF, no dangerous conditions.
You said the DPF warning light came on. If a warning light comes on, there's also a fault code. The very purpose of a warning light is to notify the driver of there being a fault. The light tells there's a fault - and the fault code tells what it actually is.

The technicians explained what they did to remove the message and why
The problem is that the "explanation" absolutely makes no sense and contradicts facts about how these things work. Regardless of you being obviously fine with that and not wanting to know better either.
 
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