[20bugsys]

I installed this on my CATA Touareg. Nice kit.

 

[casioqv]

Did you guys have to pull the aluminum intake manifold pipe to install this kit on a CATA?

 

[20bugsys]

No, it is tight squeeze but pulling the intake is not necessary.

 

[mariosuper007]

Is this kit necessary on a pump that has not yet been replaced or any pump at any stage of life? The CNRB kit is $542USD and a new rebuilt pump is ~$680 (rockauto). If you proactively replace the pump before detonation, do you need this bypass kit?

 

[SaVAGeSoot]

If you proactively replace the pump

Paging @volkswagens-for-life

 

[volkswagens-for-life]

Paging @volkswagens-for-life

He's trolling. This, on his first post? Spam.

 

[SaVAGeSoot]

 

[mariosuper007]

He's trolling. This, on his first post? Spam.

Do you have an answer or find it inconceivable that someone new to the forum would join and actually ask a question?

 

[SaVAGeSoot]

 

[mariosuper007]

Here is some details on a previous thread that some idiot took over so I started a new one. Just an FYI I am not selling these kits or am I associated with them. I am letting you know that there is a CP4 disaster prevention kit for the 3.0 L TDI that is available now. The kit is sold by Whitbread Performance (formerly sold by Barber Automotive Solutions)

I bought the kit and installed on my CATA. My document attached has details for the CATA install not supplied by Whitbread. The attached Whitbread install instructions are for CNRA CNRB and CNPB. This kit is easy to install and is cheap insurance for your 3.0 L engine. It was only $325 CDN shipped and very easy to install. Pay attention to your engine model when you order the kit:

TDI CP4 Metering Valve Bypass Kit

Basically it takes the lift pump pressure from tank to the filter and splits it after the fuel filter to feed 1) the fuel actuator side to the two pumping elements of the CP4 to the HP fuel system and 2) feeds the cam lobe and rotating plungers of the CP4 then brings area prone to metal fartigue out through a 10 micron fuel filter to the tank. Here are two videos for details:

If you have the CP$ fail you will change the CP4, rails, lines, injectors, filters, tank wash, and more = a ton of cash. Or with the CP4 DP kit after the failure you change the CP4 and the filters.

The kit is really good. The supplied hose is 225 PSI GATES 27349 and the clamps are good quality for low pressure lines. The two screws are 12.9 socket head cap screws. The return filter is a 10 micron Earl’s Vapor Guard 731166ERL filter. There is no need to buy anything else for the install.

See attached for details. If you are interested enjoy the free info, if you are an idiot; PFO

Very useful post. Many thanks!

 

[volkswagens-for-life]

Do you have an answer or find it inconceivable that someone new to the forum would join and actually ask a question?

I would personally replace your transmission and wheels before you replace your hpfp. I'd be way more concerned about those going out with age and miles.

 

[SaVAGeSoot]

Are we using the diagnostic dice again? What's going on here?

 

[mariosuper007]

I would personally replace your transmission and wheels before you replace your hpfp. I'd be way more concerned about those going out with age and miles.

Great advice. Hopefully other forum members are just as helpful. Not sure what your issue is with a new member asking a genuine question. Thanks

 

[volkswagens-for-life]

Great advice. Hopefully other forum members are just as helpful. Not sure what your issue is with a new member asking a genuine question. Thanks

Replacing the hpfp does nothing to remediate it imploding. They either work or they go bad. There's no in-between. Replacing your current pump with a new one brings a higher likelihood of it imploding than keeping your current.

 

[casioqv]

As VFL referenced, we’ve seen a lot of cases of new or low mileage pumps failing on here- as well as cases of them lasting 300k miles or more - leading to the conclusion that the pump failure probably is not correlated with the age of the pump. Surprisingly this is not a rare thing- a lot of mechanical parts tend to have failure rates independent of their age. This kit is a great idea, and just as needed regardless of the pump age.

 

[casioqv]

My theory is that these pump failures are usually caused by a single loss-of-lubrication event: running out of fuel, contaminated/bad/low lubricity fuel, etc. - however that event just microscopically scratches the surface of the cam/follower causing it to begin rapidly wearing, so it still takes a while longer for it to finally fail, after which the bad fuel has been flushed out already, so it is hard to collect any direct evidence of bad fuel causing failures. That said, failure is guaranteed shortly following the loss of lubrication, regardless of if the pump is new or old.... and even an old pump will last pretty much forever if such an event never occurs.

If this is the case, the main things you can do to prevent failure are to try to mostly use only high volume name brand fuel sellers like big truck stops on major freeways, and try to always go to the same station when near home, to reduce the chances of getting to a station with a tank of bad fuel. Also, always top off your tank at 50% or so, and absolutely never let it run empty. Lastly, always use a lubricity additive.

For me, because my vehicle is a dedicated overlander I use mostly in remote places, it requires a lot of planning/strategizing to avoid the rural low volume fuel sellers as much as possible. Occasionally, it cannot be helped.

 

[volkswagens-for-life]

My theory is that these pump failures are usually caused by a single loss-of-lubrication event: running out of fuel, contaminated/bad/low lubricity fuel, etc. - however that event just microscopically scratches the surface of the cam/follower causing it to begin rapidly wearing, so it still takes a while longer for it to finally fail, after which the bad fuel has been flushed out already, so it is hard to collect any direct evidence of bad fuel causing failures. That said, failure is guaranteed shortly following the loss of lubrication, regardless of if the pump is new or old.

If this is the case, the main things you can do to prevent failure are to try to mostly use only high volume name brand fuel sellers like big truck stops on major freeways, and try to always go to the same station when near home, to reduce the changes of getting to a station with a tank of bad fuel. Also, always top off your tank at 50% or so, and absolutely never let it run empty. Lastly, always use a lubricity additive.

Again, 💯 this ^^

 

[New2Tregs]

Great advice. Hopefully other forum members are just as helpful. Not sure what your issue is with a new member asking a genuine question. Thanks

I refuse to apologize for any members on here who resort to this type of activity but I am sorry you had to deal with it.
If you are on here long enough you will find out the motives of said individuals, as it's usually the same ones, that do this to new and sometimes ingrained members. Think back to junior high school and it might make sense.
With all that said your question was legit.

 

[New2Tregs]

Also, always top off your tank at 50% or so, and absolutely never let it run empty.

I agree.
This is one of the things that Ive read about in other threads, letting the tank level indicator go to "E" before filling up

 

[SaVAGeSoot]

I agree.
This is one of the things that Ive read about in other threads, letting the tank level indicator go to "E" before filling up

Such nonsense, and all you bandwagon riders keep spreading it.