Club Touareg Forum banner

81 - 100 of 107 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
would it works with any brand of heater ? I might have find a espar one...
thank you
does cayenne have the aux heater here ?
Can I put a fuel tap on the fuel line without having to change anything in the fuel tank ?
My plan is to install a espar D4, with a fuel tap in a line/ tank and maybe try to link it with vcds or simply independant
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,007 Posts
While I'm sure other brands could be adapted to work, they will not integrate into the HVAC system on your Touareg. And another brand would likely need custom fabbed brackets, tubes, hoses and pumps for install. Better just to pick up a complete unit from Europe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
652 Posts
Discussion Starter #83
Better just to pick up a complete unit from Europe.
This. Any other unit will not integrate with the Touareg's HVAC system, and thus will make it essentially useless. Purchase the right parts the first time. I also would not tap the vehicle fuel lines (they're stiff molded plastic anyways). Do it properly or not at all, as I was always told.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
This. Any other unit will not integrate with the Touareg's HVAC system, and thus will make it essentially useless. Purchase the right parts the first time. I also would not tap the vehicle fuel lines (they're stiff molded plastic anyways). Do it properly or not at all, as I was always told.
well, instead of using a block heater, I'll be using a diesel version of block heater.
I don't know if I'll be able to adapt it to the HVAC.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,007 Posts
I think you'll have issues with the cooling circuit. There is no Frostheater available for the 2013+ Touareg TDIs. I don't know why for certain, but obviously the REST function, or something else is different on these, making thermosiphon action impossible.

But installing a generic Webasto type heater is simple enough on a generic engine. As long as you can find a suitable mounting location - they're not tiny. Where you tap into the cooling circuit makes a lot of difference. On a TDI, it'll be trial and error with an expensive engine. And you'll get no cabin heating functionality.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Does anyone know why the 4 zone unit from Kufatec is less than half the price of the 2 zone unit? One would think it would be the other way around....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
652 Posts
Discussion Starter #87
That is strange, the only difference are two metal pipes, that you could easily block off to make them 2-zone.

I (and several others) have purchased our assemblies of Euro eBay.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Upon further inspection, it looks like the 4 zone option does not include several items that are included with the 2 zone kit (fuel pump, small parts, hoses, etc.)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts

This one seems to be the most reasonable priced one i can find right now on UK ebay. I'm sure one would have to look for other parts that wont be included, but a bit better than $3000 cad for the kit from Kufatec
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Hello! New here!
Not trying to do a retrofit but activate parking heater. Someone activated the recirculating pump (V55)? Is it needed to heat also the engine?


234476
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
281 Posts
I am doing something wrong. I've run through the coding posted here several times and continually get a "no communication with aux. heater control module" message. I am using the Kufatec wiring harness, but I do not have an actual wiring diagram of the heater module to ensure there are no wiring issues. I have the one connector with the main 12V and ground. There is another 6-wire connector. By performing continuity and/or voltage checks I have found it to be:
1: Can Low
2: Can High
3: ????
4: Metering pump +12V
5: Ground
6: Remote (which I do note have)

At this 6-pin connector, I am getting the same CAN voltages (2.3V low and 2.7V high) as I get on the TPMS module connector in the key on, engine off mode. Does anyone have a wiring diagram of the heater so I can cross that off the list? Is there something obvious that I am missing with the coding?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
By the way did you connect the Kufatec CAN wires to pin 6 and 22 of the gateway?
The heater has to be connected to the Comfort CAN wires, othrwise it will not be picked up by the network.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
281 Posts
By the way did you connect the Kufatec CAN wires to pin 6 and 22 of the gateway?
The heater has to be connected to the Comfort CAN wires, othrwise it will not be picked up by the network.
Thank you for the help Garbriel. I've been spending the past couple evenings sorting through the wiring. Once I got the wiring diagram, I discovered that the CAN-High and CAN-Low were backwards. Rewiring that got me communicating with the heater. From there I found a whole pile of wiring issues. The workmanship on the harness was quite poor; wires broken at connectors, connector pin retaining clips broken right out of the box, and of course over half of the connectors incompatible with the pumps and heater supplied. I have essentially torn apart a major part of the harness and rewired it. After repairing the harness and performing green-screen RNS-850 updates, I have made a significant amount of progress.

Currently, I am sorting through over-heat faults in the unit. I am not sure how many I get before the unit locks itself, but that is what I will research next before I cause too much self-inflicted damage. I suspect it may be the pre-fill which could have put too much fuel in the heater, since I had already filled the lines and crimped the fuel fitting before pre-filling (I did not want to run this stage, but I could not clear a line-filling fault until I ran the fill cycle one time for 30 seconds) Alternately, it may be the magnetic valve is not letting coolant through the heater circuit. I measure current draw at only 0.9A, but the valve itself gets too hot to touch when it operates. I will dig into this during my remaining time under quaratine; but I nevertheless made progress.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Hi,
I am happy you are making progress now.
With regards to the Kufatec wiring I am quite surprised as mine looked sound, even the wires had markings on them indicating their purpose. With regards to the connectors, the one that was meant to fit onto the pump, did not match, but the remaining ones did.
As for the heater valve and pump, be aware that you do not use the OEM magnetic valve harness (one of the vcds codings disables it). You have to put that one aside and use the Kufatec one instead.
I had a couple of overheating faults when I installed mine too. What I did to refill the heater up with coolant was to run the engine until it reached operating temperature, then with vcds I turned on the heater recirculation pump. You will hear a quite distinctive gurgling sound.
In order to refill the engine cooling circuit, there is a little trick that I learnt from the Porsche Cayenne literature. On the EGR cooler, at the upper side on the left, there are two torx bolts. The one closer to the front bumber is a bleeder. So if you remove it while pouring coolant it will help filling up the circuit and also to purge the circuit when the engine is running.
I hope it helps.

Gabriel
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
281 Posts
Hi,
I am happy you are making progress now.
With regards to the Kufatec wiring I am quite surprised as mine looked sound, even the wires had markings on them indicating their purpose. With regards to the connectors, the one that was meant to fit onto the pump, did not match, but the remaining ones did.
As for the heater valve and pump, be aware that you do not use the OEM magnetic valve harness (one of the vcds codings disables it). You have to put that one aside and use the Kufatec one instead.
I had a couple of overheating faults when I installed mine too. What I did to refill the heater up with coolant was to run the engine until it reached operating temperature, then with vcds I turned on the heater recirculation pump. You will hear a quite distinctive gurgling sound.
In order to refill the engine cooling circuit, there is a little trick that I learnt from the Porsche Cayenne literature. On the EGR cooler, at the upper side on the left, there are two torx bolts. The one closer to the front bumber is a bleeder. So if you remove it while pouring coolant it will help filling up the circuit and also to purge the circuit when the engine is running.
I hope it helps.

Gabriel
Yes, this helps. I was very aggressive with clamps during the installation so I did not need to add much coolant. I opened the bleed valve (#10 in image):

236516


Ultimately, I got hot coolant pipes in and out of the heater adding less than 800 ml of coolant.

.Interestingly, I drove out of my garage to warm the engine up. Once the ambient temperature sensor dropped below 5 degree C (the garage is about 10 deg C), the heater kicked in every two minutes or so to ensure that the coolant temperature was about 100 to 110 degrees. The one concern that I have is that the recirculation pump (V55) never kicked in. Using the "REST" function or the "ACTIVATE" feature, I cannot get the V55 pump to actuate. VCDS shows it running, but with 0% duty cycle - no faults. I've checked with a multimeter and found the wiring to be correct, but I cannot see voltage supplied to the hot side at any time, and no current with an ammeter I even connected my old V55 pump (the one that came with the car originally) and never received any voltage input Regretfully, I dropped battery voltage below 11.5 V before I got an opportunity to see if the pump would start before the unit overheated, but I am not optimistic. The battery is on charge overnight.

I noticed that none of the write-ups mentioned activation of Byte 0, Bit 2 in the Auxiliary Heater Module (18). We activate the Bit 3 (V279 - Coolant Shut Off Valve), but not V55. I've tried activating it and get a "short- plus to ground" and a "supply voltage - open circuit" fault. I'm not really certain if Iit is supposed to be checked, but I suspect not.

Incremental progress every day
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Mind you, the circulation pump is barely audible. If you grab the heater pipes above the wheel with your hand you can feel a slight vibration when the coolant is flowing.
My VCDS tool is old, so it does not show either V50 or V55. However in advanced measuring values it calls it Coolant Recirculation Pump. So it does in output tests.
Anyway, if I enable the circulation pump, either in output tests or pressing the rest button, it displays activated in the advanced measuring values screen.
I guess that V55 must be a recirculation pump installed in another engine. I did not activate it.
At this stage I am wondering, as you redid most of the kufatec harness wiring and mentioned that the plugs were wrong, whether you connected the extension cable that came with the Kufatec bunddle to the OEM shut-off valve plug, rather than to the circulation pump plug, and therefore, as it is disabled you do not get any juice on the hot side. Just athought though...
 

·
Registered
2014 Audi Q7 TDI
Joined
·
210 Posts
Thank you for this, soo damn much, I know what my next project is going to be.. the ONLY thing I liked about the Fix was how it warmed up, but I hated knowing it was hurting the engine in the process.. In the winter this is our vehicle with most clearance and awd so it starts getting used for short errands and taking kiddos to school when side streets are garbage, it never gets warm and is terrible on engine.. this solves everything. Gotta get this done this summer, Ive found 4 Zone Q7 specific units on ebay.de with everything, no audi specific wiring harness but I'm sure I can make the VW one work.

I think you'll have issues with the cooling circuit. There is no Frostheater available for the 2013+ Touareg TDIs. I don't know why for certain, but obviously the REST function, or something else is different on these, making thermosiphon action impossible.
This is exactly whats going on, I talked to FrostHeater dude and this is what he told me cuz Ive got the old frost heater out of my Golf I wanted to try to fit.. I didn't really believe him so I did further digging and found the Gen2 SUV 3.0L TDI motor has engine split into two cooling loops, one for the cyls and one for the block and head, its supposed to help w/warming up.. but in the process it changed enough and added enough obstructions (like flow control valves/thermostats) that I dont see any reasonable location to tap into the cooling system to provide a thermosiphon.. you could try to grab it coming out of oil cooler, but the loop through water pump and back up is rather minimal and not gonna heatup much of engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
281 Posts
I finally have mine running; thanks to everyone who has contributed to this. I didn't do anything since my last post, but the next day everything worked.

I have a FrostHeater in my Jetta wagon. I don't see any way that it would work in this car.

A couple small tips that I would add for this job:

1.) The CAN bus wires are ridculously hard to get at near the main connector suggested by Kufatec. Were I to do this again, I would find the CAN bus elsewhere. The particular bus that this has been assigned to has changed over the years based on old-VW CAN bus Service Tutorials and new ones. SSP-470 is a more current version that seems to best reflect my car. I noted that the TPMS, trailer controller, and front seat adjusters all tie into the same bus (OR-VI is CAN high, and OR-BR is always CAN low, regardless of the bus). Track down the wires elsewhere and tap in there; under the driver's seat is where I would be looking.
2.) The extension connector for the circulating pump on the Kufatec harness is the correct one for the magnetic valve. If you do not have access to a replacement connector and crimp connectors, cut that connector off with a pig-tail and splice it into the magnetic valve connector. Then simply solder and heat shrink the existing factory harness to the Kufatec extension for the circulating valve.
3.) You can tap into either the left or the right fuel tank if you are using an aftermarket pick-up tube. The left tank is larger and should work better. When you remove the seats to access the fuel sender, you have to remove the bottom seat cushion on the side you are working on. You can sometimes get those out without breaking the clips that hold the cushion in, but it is hit-or-miss. The clips are meant to be destroyed in the removal process; they are part number 7PO-886-373A and are referred to as "grommets" in the parts diagram. Also on the subject of seats, the triple-square bolts that hold the back of the seat brackets down were extremely difficult to remove, mine rounded out 1/2-way through the extraction process. I ended up having to weld my beloved Snap-On triple-square to the bolt to get it out. I can get part numbers for those bolts if others have this trouble; it appeared to be some sort of super-high strength thread locker.
4.) If your heater does not come with all the brackets, there are hexagonal holes punched in the bodywork for installation of those brackets. You are on your own in terms of making the brackets, but the hex holes in the bodywork are about 9.5mm across. I found that you can pound in a 10mm (wrench size) shouldered nut into these holes and they will not come out. Welding is another option, but I did not think it was necessary.
 

·
Registered
2014 Audi Q7 TDI
Joined
·
210 Posts
Just ordered a Webasto Assembly from Netherlands for my 2014 Q7 TDI, it came off a 2015 Q7 TDI w/less than 50k miles, its a totally different unit from what I saw of the diagrams and stuff for you tregs, but the physical plugs on the unit look the same so I'm hoping the Treg wiring harness works, if not I'll figure it out.. but after a few days research benge I think I got it all figured out.

I'm keeping a document w/the Q7 specifics here, but vast majority of the knowledge comes from this thread: Q7 Webasto Parking Heater Retrofit

With summer coming right now the pressure is off for cabin heat, but I'm about to do a full 'Offroad' tune on mine and the next winter is going to take even longer to warm up.. I'll chip away at getting the rest of the parts in the coming weeks and the goal is to have it all working by end of the summer.
 
81 - 100 of 107 Posts
Top