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Well that didn't go too well. Magnetic switch on the heater I bought has a different connector than the one that was on there. I'm going to have to modify the car harness but I ran out of time. Now I have no heat.

No idea how to get the harness to the inside of the car. Instructions say there is a "boot" above the accelerator pedal, but where that is on the engine side is a mystery.

Also, the Kufatec harness has an extra 2 pin connector that I don't know what to do with. And the instructions describe loading a 3 pin plug by wire colour, but all the harness wires are white. No idea there. Certainly not plug and play!
 

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Discussion Starter #62
The two pin connector in the kufatec harness connects to the magnetic valve. You don’t use the car harness. I poked a small hole in the rubber boot at the firewall at pulled the harness through using fish tape. It’s inside the tray, you need to remove the wiper cowl and wiper assembly.

As for the three wire connector that goes inside (for the remote module), the wires have the pin numbers printed on them.
 

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Good info. I would never have gotten that from Kufatec's instructions. Translation is pretty poor.

What exactly does the magnetic valve do and does having it disconnected explain why I have no heat?
 

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Discussion Starter #64
It isolated the heater core circuit from the engine circuit. No current is closed circuit. It’s so the parking heater can heat the interior without having to heat the whole cooling circuit. Also for faster engine warmup if the heater is off.
 

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FYI: If anyone orders or receives the OEM fuel pump for this heater, the connector included with the Kufatec harness is incompatible. You will need the following TE Connectivity housing and terminals:
  • TE Connectivity MCON 1.2 2p receptacle P/N 1-1718643-1 qty 1
  • TE Connectivity MCON 1.2 lance lock terminal 7-1452659-3 qty 2
 

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Here is the SSP for the auxiliary heater.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
OEM part number for that connector is 4F0-973-702, terminals are 000-979-034.

I just purchased a standard Webasto heater from a truck shop for my retrofit, which will work with the supplied Kufatec harness.. It was $20.
 

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FYI: If anyone orders or receives the OEM fuel pump for this heater, the connector included with the Kufatec harness is incompatible. You will need the following TE Connectivity housing and terminals:
  • TE Connectivity MCON 1.2 2p receptacle P/N 1-1718643-1 qty 1
  • TE Connectivity MCON 1.2 lance lock terminal 7-1452659-3 qty 2


Did you use the OEM fuel lines as well?
 

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Hi all,
At the beggining of the week I finished retrofitting the auxiliary heater.
As I do not have much spare time currently, I carried it out in three stages namely:
- Electrical installation.
- Fuel supply installation.
- Heater installation.

ELECTRICAL INSTALLATION.

As Scuba reported, the Kufatec instructions are not very clear, so I opted to perform this stage planning in advance all my steps.
Basically, I put the main wiring harness in between the upper side of the wing and the foam insert located right above the center of the wheel. From that point I guided it towards the heater area, and I routed the loom that had to go inside the cabin through the existing gap below the hood gas strut towards the plenum. Then I tie wrapped it to the hood release bowden cable and along to the main wiring harness that ran below the wiper assembly. Finally, I introduced it into the cabin using a large tie wrap that I had previously inserted into the rubber grommet from inside. To ease things, I sprayed some silicon oil on the grommet.
Once the wiring loom was inside the cabin I guided it towards the left hand side of the dashboard using a conduit located at the uppermost area of the pedal assembly. If you squeeze your head at the throttle pedal area and look upwards, it is clearly visible as several looms come out of it.
In order to connect the CAN wires to the gateway, due to the limited room, rather than soldering I decided to use some VW repair wires and a four pin plug and socket. What I did was to release CAN wires #6 and #22 from the large gateway connector and inserted them in the male 4 pin connector at orifices 1 and 3. Then I inserted the Kufatec CAN wires in orifices 2 and four. As for the female connector, I inserted half male repair wires in all orifices, linked 1 and 2, also linked 3 and 4. At that point I soldered half female repair wire to each of the links and inserted the female pins into the large gateway connector. After securing the large gateway connector to the gateway control unit, I connected the new plug and socket together. All the soldered connections were protected with heat shrink pipe.
The part numbers for the connectors and repair wires are:
Plug: 8k0973754
Socket: 8k0972994
Male repair wire: 000979012E
Femail repair wire: 000979009E
With regards to the connections at the fuse box, I had to lengthen the + wire that feeds the heater 15cm in order to be able to insert it to #2 fuse slot. I decided to insert the + wire for the remote control into fuse slot #12. As for the thin earth connector, rather than fastening it to the dashboard frame I connected it to the earth point located behind the plastic trim by the hood release lever.
SIDE NOTE: Because I did not like the Kufatec loom being unprotected, I used corrugated plastic tubing to cover most sections of it.

FUEL SUPPLY INSTALLATION.

This stage was much less time consuming than the previous one.
As I had purchased a flange for vehicles with auxiliary heater, the flange replacement was plug and play.
To connect the fuel hose that feeds the pump I used 4mm polyamide piping together with 5mm internal diameter fuel rubber hose. I connected the pigtail of the heater fuel feed quick release coupling to the rubber hose on one end, and the polyamide pipe to the other end, securing them with jubilee clips. Then I routed the polyamide hose above the driveshaft and fuel tank towards the rear door. As in the previous stage I also protected the fuel hose with corrugated pipe.
Concerning the pump, I removed the connectors of both ends and replaced them with 4mm quick couplings that I had from a Webasto pump. At that point, I secured the pump onto the chassis and routed the 4mm fuel hose towards the front wheel well. Again, I used corrugated pipe to cover the hose and fixed it to the frame tie wrapping it to some studs that protruded from it.
As for the electrics, I laid the wiring harness next to the fuel hose, and as Scuba anticipated, I had to purchase a different plug and two pins in order to be able to connect it to the fuel feed pump.
In order to save some time, I purged the fuel line by manually driving the feed pump with a 12V battery.

HEATER INSTALLATION.

To be honest it was not as difficult, due to the tight fit, as I had anticipated.
I removed the old assembly and plugged the pipes with wine bottle corks :p . In order to fit the heater on place I had to remove the foam insert as there was no way that it would come in with it.
After fastening the heater bracket, assembling the exhaust muffler, connecting the coolant pipes, replenishing some coolant, connecting the large black and red plugs and fitting the fuses it was time to code the control units as described by Chewbbleka. It all went well, with only a couple of faults showing up due to incorrectly coded control units, that later on did not show up any more once the full encoding was completed. Then I purged the fuel line again and connected it to the heater.
After that I turned on the engine and let it run for several minutes in order to refill the heater coolant circuit. Subsequently, I turned the heater on, but it automatically turned off due to overheating as there was not enough coolant inside it yet.
Anyway, I let the engine run for a while, and with VCDS turned on the heater recirculation pump to fill the heater circuit with coolant. Afterwards, it operated correctly.
So, after several days of work, effort, cursing, and sweat it is now up and running :)

Gabriel
 

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I have no change to my HVAC screen after making all of the coding changes. I've gone back over it several times to make sure I didn't miss anything. The heater runs fine from the remote, but there is no option on the Climate screen.
 

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You have to enable it using the green menu:
In car/cardevicelist -> check Auxiliary Heater
In car / carmenuoperation -> set Auxiliary heater to 5
Then restart rns 850.
I hope it helps.

Gabriel
 

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Thanks to Gabriel. The missing step is to go into the green menu on the RNS850, go to car --> devicelist --> auxiliary heater (check). Then car --> carmenuoperation --> set auxiliary heater to 5. Then reboot the RNS850.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Weird, I didn’t have to enable anything in my green screen. To purge/bleed the heater circuit, hit the rest button with the ignition off. It will run the recirc pump and bleed.

Enjoy your programmed heat! So nice to get into a toasty vehicle on those frozen mornings :)
 

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Can one of you fine people show me what the heater muffler looks like from the outside of the vehicle? Is it visible? Sticking out in from behind a front wheel or something? Does it hang below the vehicle?
 

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Firstly I'd like to thank all of you who have added to this thread. It is a great wealth of information and has helped me immensely to get my parking heater retrofit. I have most of my components lined up but I've noticed something that I don't believe has been answered.

The original unit I received was off of another Touareg that had this factory installed. Aside from the main Brown 2 pin connected and the black 6 pin connector there is a 4 pin plug that basically combines the coolant pump and heater valve into one connector. Did you guys simply unplug at each component and use the Kufatec and OEM plugs?
 

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A few notes from my install experience:
  • I recommend not using rubber hose for the suction side of the fuel line. Use a more rigid fuel line like Parker Parflex 1/4" ID. The rubber can collapse when sucking cold diesel. As an added bonus, the Parflex I have is translucent white so I could clearly see the air bubbles work their way out of the suction side. Use some rubber hose over top of the rigid hose where you clamp, unless you have really small clamps. Make absolute sure there are no kinks or potential kinks in the fuel line.
  • Run the fuel line from the tank flange out the left front side, over the driveshaft and over the left side fuel tank. It will end up directly next to the pump.
  • Be sure to install your fuel metering pump at a 15° to 30° angle from horizontal with the outlet higher. This will enable the pump to pass any air bubbles.
  • It is easiest to remove all of the under-dash panels on the driver's side when trying to access the wiring. This will allow you to easily see the rubber grommet where the wires pass through. As well, it's the only way to reach the CAN gateway, which is up really high and very difficult to reach. The connector on the CAN gateway is a cam-lock type. With the amount of space in there, it is not the easiest connector to release.
  • Get the remote. It extends the capabilities of the heater quite a bit. Try to find a heater that comes with it.
I bought my heater from xdalys.lt (Latvia) and it pretty much included everything. I then ordered most of the missing brackets and hardware from e-acca.com.

Hopefully this information will make the install a little easier for the next person. I highly recommend it.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
is there a way to find theses part at a cheap price in canada ?
thank you
eBay is pretty much your only bet. Thats where I got mine. 2011+ Touaregs were never equipped with these heaters in NAR, as such I doubt you'll get parts for them from any NAR parts supplier.
 
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