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Discussion Starter #1
Retrofitted an European Webasto (Eberspaecher) parking heater in my 2015 Canadian Touareg TDI.

Parts needed:
You can buy the complete retrofit from Kufatec, part# 39400-1

Or you can piece it together:

Heater assembly (gas) 7P0815008K (diesel) 7P0815008L
Body bracket 7P0819735A
Muffler 7P0819084B
Muffler brackets 7L0819379 & 7P0815611A
Muffler bracket bushing 7L0819083
Muffler bracket rivnuts N90263104 (x2)
Hose (for 2-zone, heater to pump) 7P0815374
Coolant pipe (for 2-zone, valve to vehicle) 7P0819929C
Fuel tank flange (fuel pickup) (gas) 7P0919679B (diesel) 7P6919679
Fuel pump 7P0261163A
Fuel line (tank to metering pump) 7P0201355A
Wiring harness from Kufatec part# 39399-1
10 feet of 3/16" fuel hose and at least 6 clamps

I purchased a Webasto (it's actually an Eberspaecher) unit complete with hoses, tubes, main bracket, tank flange, and exhaust muffler off German eBay. I purchased the wiring harness from Kufatec, some brackets from E-Acca, and the fuel pump and fuel line locally. Here's everything:



Harness:


First step is to perform this on a cool vehicle. Hot coolant burns. :( Raise the front left, support with a jack stand, and remove the FL wheel. Remove the wheel liner, it's held in place with a bunch of T25 screws and two plastic 10mm nuts. Remove the lower left underbody panel that runs between the front and rear wheels. It's held in with a number of T25 screws. You are then presented with this.

Old hose assembly with recirc pump and magnetic valve:


You need to disconnect the rubber hoses at the circled locations. clamp off the lines or plug with plugs. Have a container ready, coolant will come out. Then remove the two T30 bolts that hold the assembly to the body. Pull the assembly out carefully, and disconnect the two electrical connectors.

I accidentally purchased a unit meant for a Touareg with 4-zone climate control, which has two additional (and unneeded) hoses.

Too many hoses


You can either remove the incorrect hoses and install the correct hoses (which I did), or cut the unnecessary part of the aluminum pipe and cap with a 3/4" coolant cap. I did this at first as the two hoses I ordered hadn't arrived after 3 weeks and I didn't want to wait any longer. I later installed the correct hoses. This is where you would cut the unnecessary parts off:

Cut pipes


Correct coolant pipe


Now you can install the assembly. It's a tight and awkward fit, and it took me a while to get it all lined up and installed. Tip - put some white grease on the rubber bushing at the rear of the heater bracket. It will help guide the alignment pin in. You can see the alignment pin installed in the fender well if you stick your head in.

Heater assembly installed


Now you remove the rear right seat so you can install the fuel pick up and fuel line. Rear seat removal procedure. Once the seat is removed, flip up the carpet cut out and remove the 4 10mm nuts that hold the cover on.

Tank cover


This is the tank flange that I bought. Note the extra port for the Webasto fuel line. The tank MUST be below 1/2 tank to perform this step, or fuel WILL spill out. Best to do with as little fuel as possible. Begin by removing the two existing fuel lines by pressing the the tab, and pulling up. Some fuel will spill out, so cover with a rag. No smoking!! Remove the two electrical connectors, the smaller 3-pin connector has a red safety lock that must be pulled up slightly before you can release the connector. Push the hoses and connectors out of the way, and remove the flange locking ring by gently hitting a chisel or drift with a hammer against the locking ring in a counter-clockwise motion. Remove the locking ring, and lift the flange upwards. Disconnect the electrical connectors and hoses on the underside. Installation is the reverse of removal. The OEM fuel line comes up from the front right of the tank and connects to the smallest port on the new flange.


You can also purchase a universal Webasto fuel standpipe online. You will have to drill a hole in your current tank flange. This may be an easier option for people if they can't find the European tank flange. You will then connect your 3/16" fuel line directly to the fuel tank flange.

Connect 3/16" fuel line and a clamp the the other end of the OEM fuel line that is now underneath the vehicle. Run up up and over the driveshaft, securing it to the existing fuel lines. You want it to end up on the left side of the vehicle, under the rear left door essentially. Install the fuel pump to the frame rail, just underneath the rear left door. I already had a tapped hole in my frame rail. If not, you could use a self-tapping screw or a bolt and rivnut. Connect your 3/16" fuel line with a clamp to the inlet side of the pump. Connect another piece of 3/16" fuel line and clamp to the outlet side of the pump (outlet side will have an arrow on it, and the electrical connector as well).

Fuel metering pump installed:

Now run the fuel line along the frame rail to the heater unit. Do not connect it yet, as the line needs to be bled and primed with fuel first.

Electrical Install

Now is the time to run the wiring. I'll refer you to the Kufatec Install manual for the wiring install. Hardes part I found was connecting the two CAN-bus wires to the CAN-bus gateway module. Basically, you connect to the two large plugs to the heater unit, connect the extension harness to the recirc pump and original harness, connect the magnetic valve, and ground to the grounding point behind the left headlight above the fender liner. Run the fuel pump harness to your fuel metering pump. Then run the remaining harness into the interior. You run it into the rain tray/plenum, through the grommet that's above the accelerator pedal, then under the dash to the left most side behind the fuse panel. Remove the left and under dash covers. Remove the two T25 screws that hold the fuse panel to the dash support. Remove the rear plastic cover. Insert the larger gauge wire terminal into fuse spot 2. Install a 25A fuse. Remove the CAN-bus module wiring connector, and install the two CAN-bus wires into their respective spots. I had to solder mine as there were already wires installed. This will vary depending on your vehicle equipment level.

Coding

Connect your VCDS cable to your OBD2 port and fire up VCDS. Select 19-CAN Gateway Select "installation list", scroll down and put a check mark next to "18 -Aux. Heat". Save coding, close controller.

CAN gateway coding


Now select 01-Engine. Go to coding, then Long Coding. Go to byte 3, then put a check mark next to bit 3. Save coding, close controller.

Engine coding



Now select 08-Auto HVAC. Go to coding, then Long Coding. Go to byte 1, then put a check mark next to bit 4. Then go to byte 4, and remove the check mark from bit 7. Save coding, close controller.

HVAC coding





Now select 18-Aux. Heat. Go to coding, then long coding. Go to byte 0. Select your fuel type in bit 4-5. If you have the remote, put a checkmark next to bit 6. Otherwise, leave it blank.

Aux heater coding



Now go back through each of the above modules and clear any codes.


Bleeding and priming fuel; and first run

Fuel level must be sufficient to bleed! You cannot have the low fuel warning on!

In VCDS, select 18-Aux heat. Go to Adaptation, channel 30 (line filling duration). Enter "30" as a new value, test then save. Go to channel 36 (line filling enabling). Enter "1" as a new value, test then save. Exit the adaptation menu.

Fuel line duration



Fuel line filling activation




Now select "04-Basic settings". Go to channel 66 (Metering pump V54 Activation). Select "on/off/next". You should now hear the metering pump begin to click, Have a container ready for any fuel that comes out of the line. It will stop after 30 seconds. It took me three bleeding sessions to get fuel coming out of the line. After each metering pump activation, you must repeat the fuel line filling activation in Adaptation! (Previous step).

Fuel line filling/bleeding




Once you have fuel coming out of the line, connect it to the heater unit with a clamp. Now you're ready to fire the heater for the first time! :) Turn the ignition on, wait for the radio system to start. Push the "climate" button and wait for the screen to appear. You should now notice an "Aux. Heater" button in the bottom left corner. Select it.

HVAC display




You are now presented with a new screen for the Aux. heater. Select "activate now".

Aux. heater menu



You should now hear the recirc pump and heater fan starting. You will also see the pre-heat symbol on the climate display. This means the heater unit is starting and warming the coolant. The interior fan will not run just yet. You can select the temperature you desire.

Preheating



After a few seconds, you should hear the fuel metering pump begin to click. Shortly after, the heater will ignite and begin heater. Smoke will begin coming out the muffler. It will clear up after running for 15 or so seconds. Here is mine on it's first run.

After a minute of preheating, the interior fan should start blowing. You will then see this on the climate display.




You can adjust the temperature and fan speed. Check for coolant leaks and fuel leaks. If everything seems good, re-install the left underbody panel and fender liner; and anything else you removed. Ensure all wires and fuel lines are secured and out of the way of moving or hot items first!

Here is the pages on operation of the Aux. heater from the manual. Basically, you set the day and time you want the interior to be warmed up, NOT when you want the heater to start! You must manually enable a starting time by putting a checkmark next to it, you can not permanently program it to start.







You can start the Aux. Heater by either enabling it in the climate display with the ignition on, or by pressing the "REST" button on the climate panel with the ignition off. I find that it heats the interior rather quickly. We had quite a frosty morning here in Vancouver, BC the day after I completed my installation. I had the departure time set to 7:05, and when I got to my Touareg at 7:05, the windows were all clear and the interior was nice and warm. I may install the remote at a later date, but as of now I see no point. I have it set for when I leave in the morning, and when I leave after work, with the third spot available for other times.
 

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YES!! Thank you so much for doing this. I will be following in short order.
 

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Is a new climate control panel required? Or does the existing one work with the REST button working the parking heater? Does the REST function still work or does it just run the parking heater instead?
 

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Great start to this job.

Well done!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Is a new climate control panel required? Or does the existing one work with the REST button working the parking heater? Does the REST function still work or does it just run the parking heater instead?
You do not need to replace your climate head, just needs 2 coding changes. REST functions works as is. If the engine coolant is hot on shutdown, it will run off that heat. If the engine is cold, it will fire the Webasto. On hot summer days it will run just the fan to vent the interior. I'll try to write a decent operation guide in the DIY.

I see that my original post cannot be updated... what's with that? I'd like to be able to have it all in one post. Don't tell me I need to create a new thread with a complete DIY?
 

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Are you installing the remote system too?
 

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Would be interested to see a scan of your 018. With the 7L on our T1’s, the 7L815 heater fitted in NA had to be replaced with a 7L819 sold in Europe to get Parkheizung. It was really just a different circuit board (control module).
 

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This is pretty awesome.... I'm not gonna lie.... I'm a little jealous......
Maybe if I ever start driving my Treg daily, I will consider doing this....... my TDI Jetta has an OEM block heater which gets used during days like this morning when it was -15c (5f for y'all) but it's nowhere as awesome as this would be since stuff gets cold while I'm at work for half a day too.......
 

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Would be interested to see a scan of your 018. With the 7L on our T1’s, the 7L815 heater fitted in NA had to be replaced with a 7L819 sold in Europe to get Parkheizung. It was really just a different circuit board (control module).
The OP bought a Euro heater, so it shouldn't need any modifications. Except if he plans to add a remote.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I will be installing a remote later, but as of now I see no need. I program it to come on before and after work.

There is no difference in the Webasto circuit boards they are used in T3s. It’s a simple coding change to make it a parking or aux heater. Adding a remote is also enabling one bit.

I’m loving it so far. First morning after install it was a thick frosty morning, but my windows were clear and interior nicely heated when I got in at 7:05. :)
 

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I think you're right, but we call it a Webasto like people call tissues Kleenex. Eberspacher is the manufacturer of the auxiliary heaters in T3s.
 

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I’m loving it so far. First morning after install it was a thick frosty morning, but my windows were clear and interior nicely heated when I got in at 7:05. :)
And the engine was warm? What was ambient and how long did your heater run? Where was the temp gauge when you first started it?

I'm interested in real world testing. Especially at -25°C and colder. How does the heater work in -35°C?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
What's a realistic build price based on your experience?
About $3000 CAD if you purchase from Kufatec, maybe $600-800 CAD if you piece it together yourself.

And the engine was warm? What was ambient and how long did your heater run? Where was the temp gauge when you first started it?

I'm interested in real world testing. Especially at -25°C and colder. How does the heater work in -35°C?
Engine coolant is not heated, the magnetic valve isolates the heater circuit. Ambient was maybe 0˚C. I'm not sure how long the heater ran for, it bases its runtime on ambient and coolant temps. You set the time you want to leave, and it will come on prior to that as needed. Could come on 40 minutes prior, or 10 minutes prior. The interior will be heated to whatever temp you set the climate head at, for your programmed departure time.

I believe you could make a coding change that would warm the engine coolant after the interior is heated, but I'm not certain. I will definitely heat the interior in -35˚C.

I'll try to have the rest of the DIY finished this weekend. I've got lots of things on the go atm. Busy at work, school, other people's cars, and several more mods for my own Touareg (air suspension, ambient lighting package, etc).
 

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The Webasto heater on Generation 1 cars will not run if the fuel tank is less than 1/4 full [for fairly obvious reasons!].

Have you programmed that "feature" into the retro-fit?

It's a great thread anyway!
 

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Engine coolant is not heated, the magnetic valve isolates the heater circuit.
This would be a deal breaker for me. I'm much more interested in warming my engine than my interior. There is no plug in coolant heater option for this engine, nor is there a block heater option. All Webasto and Eberspacher (and other makes) coolant heaters heat the engine. If VW plumbed this one to only heat the heater core, it's useless for my needs.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The Webasto heater on Generation 1 cars will not run if the fuel tank is less than 1/4 full [for fairly obvious reasons!].
It won't run if the fuel level is below 1/4, no programming needed. The CAN-bus network shares all the info.

This would be a deal breaker for me. I'm much more interested in warming my engine than my interior. There is no plug in coolant heater option for this engine, nor is there a block heater option. All Webasto and Eberspacher (and other makes) coolant heaters heat the engine. If VW plumbed this one to only heat the heater core, it's useless for my needs.
I'll try the coding that Njord posted. The magnetic valve is controlled via the parking heater, so I assume it is possible to heat the engine as well.
 
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