Here are two extracts from some of the numerous articles I've been reading on the subject. Depending on how much time you want to kill, you can easily find more with some google searches.
If you have sources to share, or if you can otherwise explain why both my current charger and the vehicle's system aren't bringing the battery up closer to its full potential, I'd be all ears!
Hi SaVAGeSoot well I guess one lives and learns however what I have read appears to indicate that the charging profiles do not reflect the charging profiles set by many reputable and leading manufacturers of smart chargers -- However from what I gather the 16+ voltage is to assist with a "reconditioning" process but in doing so I believe that one must monitor the battery temperature closely to ensure that it does not get too hot ( I recollect reading somewhere about 45 Deg C and that if a battery is charged at 14.5V and its in a vehicle in motion then the electrolyte is actually agitated enough to permit it to be charged fully.. It is also interesting to see that some artices suggest that one can "recondition" an calcium battery back to 100% capacity.... I also found this article of interest Introduction to Silver Calcium Battery (batterym.com)
From one source 🔋 How to charge a calcium car battery correctly (a6s.info)
How do manufacturers recommend charging a calcium battery? They usually attach a brief instruction to it, in which, without any clear explanations, they write what to do. One of these official instructions is now on my desk, and we will take the key points from it.
The following is written in it:
- The calcium battery should be charged with a current equal to 10% of the capacity.
- When the charge voltage reaches 14.4 V, the current must be halved and charged for 10 hours.
- Upon completion of the charge, it is necessary to check the density of the electrolyte and, in case of high concentration, correct it by adding water.
- Each time after adjusting the density, the battery must be charged at a voltage of 16 V, and carried out for 40 minutes.
So, let's expand on this guide a bit. Rather, we will rewrite it from scratch, not forgetting about non-standard situations. We will also add to it a few recommendations that will extend the life of the calcium battery.
Calcium battery charging algorithm
If instructions for charging a calcium battery were instructed to write to me, then it would look like this:
- Estimate the state of charge of the battery by the rest voltage or the indicator on the case.
- If the rest voltage is below 12.3 V (or the indicator is not green), charge the battery using a charger.
- Disconnect the battery from the on-board network.
- If there are blockages, turn it out.
- Connect the charger, having previously set the charge current to 10% of the real capacity, and not from the one that is written on the case.
- Charge until the voltage reaches 14.4 V and the charge current drops to 0.1-0.3 A.
- If you are going to travel in the near future, then simply connect the battery to the car's on-board network.
- If you are not planning to travel, additionally charge the battery at 16.1 V for 40 minutes.
- If the density of the electrolyte up to the 8th point is normal, then it is not necessary to charge with a voltage of 16.1 V.
- The same is true if the indicator on the battery case turns green.
In addition, if you carefully read the proposed algorithm for charging a calcium battery, you can understand that it is suitable for almost all types of chargers. Even for do-it-yourselfers.
But that's not all. Even our supplemented instructions cannot be called complete. It does not have answers to many questions that are often asked by owners of calcium batteries. Therefore, let's spend a little more time and analyze 10 questions regarding this type of battery. By the way, many of the answers provided are generic. That is, they will also be useful in cases where the battery is not calcium, but some other - classic, AGM, GEL, and so on.
About car battery desulfation
What charger to charge a calcium battery?
Typical calcium battery charger
If you need without dancing with tambourines, then a special charger for calcium batteries. These include those that have a 16.1 V charging mode. How to use such devices is clearly described in their operating instructions. The basic principle is based on what has already been said above.
f the charger is not special, and it does not provide for voltage adjustment, it will not work to charge a calcium battery stationary up to 100%. However, as real experiments show, this can be achieved by mechanical mixing of the electrolyte instead of boiling with increased voltage. All that is needed for this is to install the battery on the car and drive a few kilometers on not the most flat road. After that, as a rule, the density evens out and the indicator on the case turns green.
What voltage to charge a calcium battery?
For a full charge, a voltage of at least 14.4 V is required. If the battery is charged stationary, then at the end it is necessary to forcefully mix the electrolyte by electrolysis. You already know how much tension to provoke him. Under the hood, under normal conditions, there is no such problem, since everything is perfectly mixed from vibrations. It is very useful to turn to logic and common sense here. If manufacturers know that the voltage of the on-board network on cars is 14.4-14.8 V, then they would make batteries that cannot do without 16 V.
On the Internet, there are smart people who put forward the bad idea that calcium batteries should not be bought for a car at all. Like, there is no voltage sufficient for a 100 percent charge under the hood, which means that the battery will quickly die from sulfation. This is nonsense caused by misunderstanding. Real experience confirms this. If there are no generator malfunctions in your car, the calcium
How much current to charge a calcium battery?
Probably everyone knows that the charging current should be no more than 10% of the battery capacity. This is the golden rule. But it's a trick. The fact is that the capacity of the batteries is constantly decreasing during operation. And most motorists continue to charge them 10% of what is written on the case. This leads to the fact that the battery is not fully charged, and its service life is ultimately greatly reduced.
Therefore, you need to understand what kind of capacity to take 10%. While the calcium battery is new, there is every chance that it has as many ampere-hours as it is written on the case. But a year later, this figure is noticeably reduced. Even if you take care of the battery, avoiding modes that are harmful to it. The actual capacitance can be measured with special devices. If there is no desire to buy them, then simply after each year of battery service, discard 10-15 ampere-hours from the original capacity on the case. Already from this figure, take 10%, and charge.
I wonder how the VW electronics manages the smart alternator operation --- PFM ( Pure Flaming Magic) I guess.