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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys

Looking for some help.

So my 14 touareg has this issue this is the second time it’s happened.

Randomly... drive the car all is well. Shut it off today to get gas. I get back in after filling up and car cranks for a moment like really quick then stops and just does nothing... didn’t start. Turn ignition off etc, try again, same thing. Third time seems to be the charm it fires up but EPC light is on, drive it home. More or less driving ok but definitely not perfectly.

The first time it happened I drove about 30 miles down the highway, went into the store and this same thing happened.

I call my dealer as I’ve got an extended warranty on it but it’s Saturday and while they are normally open they are not doing saturdays right now due to covid 19.

Now my dealer sucks... the techs can not diagnose anything w out a “code”. I do have one, but only one. It is:


Code # p305300

Wasn’t able to find much at all about this online.

I have the warranty but they typically refuse to do anything w out a light on and a code. So here’s the issue... I go out this afternoon and after a couple of attempts it fires up and the EPC light goes off. Same thing that happened a few months back when this happened....


So I will speak to someone Monday. However basically ready to be told they won’t do anything until it’s basically a major issue w hard codes and the car leaves me stranded.

I have hammered this warranty pretty good in the last 60 days or so the water pump went and I had that done... not much time passed after that and the heat stopped working... took it back and the coolant control valve had failed in the driver wheel well.

Car has 76k miles. This warranty is good until 115k and another 2 or 3 years. So I plan to keep the touareg for a long time and plan to hammer this warranty into the ground and fix everything until it’s up so we should be good for a bit!

Just curious if anyone has ever dealt w this. If so what was the fix? I just don’t want to be stranded somewhere and it refuses to start completely at some point.

I thought epc maybe had something to do w the throttle or brake and so each time this happens I do hit the pedals a few times, until today I saw this code so now not sure.

Appreciate any help!


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Error message in photo shows: Short circuit to ground/open circuit.

There's a wiring issue with the starter, or the wiring between the starter and ignition switch.

Yeah I figured that... was trying to have a look yesterday but was freezing and snowing here in Vermont lol. Is the starter on the backside of the motor do you know? I was wondering if it’s just corrosion or something on that wire. The car is under warranty for another 2 years and 40k miles but my dealer is so hands off and won’t touch it w out the light on etc. so I’m waiting until the issue is a bit more pronounced. Last time this happened was like 3 months ago.

Once the car starts the epc light goes off and the code goes from static to intermittent immediately. Cleared codes for now and will see what happens. Hopefully nothing too crazy. We love this car but seems when it hit 75k it’s been a slew of things... water pump, coolant control valve and now this all in a row lol.


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You could be heat soaking the solenoid. The starter is in front of the transmission under the intake and exhaust manifolds on the passenger side. You might be able to see it if the passenger front wheel was removed. If the car is cranking and turning over but not starting and you have this code I suspect the terminal 50 (solenoid) signal is not making it to the engine control module in-spite of the signal making it to the starter. The car sees the RPM of an engaged starter and does not see a signal from terminal 50 which creates a mismatch condition. If the car cranks and is not starting right up try holding the accelerator pedal to the floor (DO NOT PUMP) and see if it starts better. You just filled your tank so you might have a small leak in your evaporation emissions system that is causing to much vapor to be present in the intake manifold causing a flooded condition in the combustion chamber. Holding the pedal to the floor will rush more air into the engine allowing it to take off.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You could be heat soaking the solenoid. The starter is in front of the transmission under the intake and exhaust manifolds on the passenger side. You might be able to see it if the passenger front wheel was removed. If the car is cranking and turning over but not starting and you have this code I suspect the terminal 50 (solenoid) signal is not making it to the engine control module in-spite of the signal making it to the starter. The car sees the RPM of an engaged starter and does not see a signal from terminal 50 which creates a mismatch condition. If the car cranks and is not starting right up try holding the accelerator pedal to the floor (DO NOT PUMP) and see if it starts better. You just filled your tank so you might have a small leak in your evaporation emissions system that is causing to much vapor to be present in the intake manifold causing a flooded condition in the combustion chamber. Holding the pedal to the floor will rush more air into the engine allowing it to take off.
Funny you say this about the evap. I doubt it’s heat soaking as I drive a short distance and it was winter like weather that day. However for the evap.. I had a code forever last two years kept coming and going for “small evap leak” I took it to the dealer and made them check it all out and was told they could not find the issue so until something “failed” completely warranty won’t cover them just replacing parts. Absolutely could be related... haven’t seen that evap code since last summer now. Yeah the car cranks... almost seems to start but die immediately. I just want something to happen almost so I can make them fix it. They are happy to do so but they say they can’t do much w no light on.


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Not sure why the code you pulled is coming up and that part scares me but if your car starts harder after filling up or with an almost full tank of gas and then starts easier under the same conditions with a floored accelerator pedal then I would add to the suspect list a small evaporation emission leak into the intake manifold causing a rich or flood condition when restarting within 5 to 30 minutes. The control valve for this is the vapor canister purge valve or SDC (service diagnostic code) N80 commonly referred to as the N80 Valve. A common failure part and with your code history and no repair history it rises even higher in the list of potential candidates.
 

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Not sure why the code you pulled is coming up and that part scares me but if your car starts harder after filling up or with an almost full tank of gas and then starts easier under the same conditions with a floored accelerator pedal then I would add to the suspect list a small evaporation emission leak into the intake manifold causing a rich or flood condition when restarting within 5 to 30 minutes. The control valve for this is the vapor canister purge valve or SDC (service diagnostic code) N80 commonly referred to as the N80 Valve. A common failure part and with your code history and no repair history it rises even higher in the list of potential candidates.
Appreciate the insight! Consider trading this thing in w all of the great VW incentives being offered right now. It was amazing up until 75k... we will see! Right now the issues have disappeared.


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These are great vehicles and the 3.6 is one of the best VW engines in terms of reliability. It's so good I would put it up against Volvo and Toyota engines any day! All cars have purge valve issues eventually. I currently have over 210000 miles on one of my 3.6 cars and it still runs fantastic. Only problems I've ever had were the in tank fuel pump. The brushes on the alternator wore out and was fixed with a voltage regulator replacement. The rest was just normal maintenance. I believe you will be hard pressed to find a better more reliable engine and transmission in another vehicle not to mention the capability you will loose if you change vehicles. Of course there are always lemons but 95% will be excellent as long as they are maintained properly.

3.6 engines were designed to use 504.00 oils in Europe but use 502.00 oil in North America because our gasoline didn't mix well with 504.00 motor oil. I have read that our gasoline now isn't as volatile to 504.00 oil because we reduced our sulfur content recently but I have not personally verified the statement. Using 502.00 oil in a 3.6 with 10k oil changes is generally not a great idea unless you drive over 20k miles per year in my opinion. I use oils meeting either 505.01 or 504.00 specification in all VAG gasoline engines with VVT. I use 507.00 in all diesel engines 2006+. Lucky me most oils will meet both 504.00 and 507.00
 

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These are great vehicles and the 3.6 is one of the best VW engines in terms of reliability. It's so good I would put it up against Volvo and Toyota engines any day! All cars have purge valve issues eventually. I currently have over 210000 miles on one of my 3.6 cars and it still runs fantastic. Only problems I've ever had were the in tank fuel pump. The brushes on the alternator wore out and was fixed with a voltage regulator replacement. The rest was just normal maintenance. I believe you will be hard pressed to find a better more reliable engine and transmission in another vehicle not to mention the capability you will loose if you change vehicles. Of course there are always lemons but 95% will be excellent as long as they are maintained properly.

3.6 engines were designed to use 504.00 oils in Europe but use 502.00 oil in North America because our gasoline didn't mix well with 504.00 motor oil. I have read that our gasoline now isn't as volatile to 504.00 oil because we reduced our sulfur content recently but I have not personally verified the statement. Using 502.00 oil in a 3.6 with 10k oil changes is generally not a great idea unless you drive over 20k miles per year in my opinion. I use oils meeting either 505.01 or 504.00 specification in all VAG gasoline engines with VVT. I use 507.00 in all diesel engines 2006+. Lucky me most oils will meet both 504.00 and 507.00

Thanks for input! The touareg has been a great car for sure! With the incentives we are trading for a 2020 Tiguan. The touareg is overkill for my wife’s Easy Highway commute and really not great on gas. I’m a VR6 guy and have a supercharged mk4 r32. The 3,6 is no doubt a great motor but also nothing special in the big touareg. Like all VR6’s it’s generally bulletproof besides cooling issues. We don’t tow... we just drive it lol. It has depreciated so much it’s incredible I can get out of it now and get a decent price. Same ones around me are going for under 10k after 100k miles kind of sad really. The touareg is no doubt a fabulous machine.... I miss our 04 v8 all the time! If I was able to secure a tdi prior to the diesel issues I’d have jumped on it! Unfortunately they were not available as we bought during the middle of it lol.

The starting issue is not the purge valve I tried replacing that. Rather an issue that we Cannot replicate and happens at random which is not comforting driving around my 8 month old daughter.

While we will miss certain aspects of the touareg for sure we will enjoy the tech of the Tiguan and I’m looking forward to some tuning becoming available to wake up the slow b cycle motor. Decent deal on a sel premium r line in the color we wanted came up so we are jumping on it.

Sorry I couldn’t get to the main issue Incase this helps someone else! It hasn’t done it again as of late seems to be every couple of months randomly. Dealer was no help said to just tow it next time it won’t start w epc light on.


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