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Discussion Starter #1
Just finished the entire job this afternoon. 4 new rotors, new pads, and new sensors.

The rotors and pads are OE, but I purchased the sensors aftermarket from 2 places online, Only $35 for all 4 total. Dealership wanted $448 -EACH!!

I also got a decent discount on the pads and rotors, just under $500 total for all of it.

As it turns out, I really didn't need rotors, but I replaced them anyway. My rotors both front and rear were BARELY worn after 74000 miles. Each front rotor was 31.7mm (new is 32mm and 30mm is MIN) thick, and the rears were 27.8mm thick (new is 28mm and 26mm is MIN). Only a very small lip on each rotor, I was very impressed. there was still nearly 40% pad life left on the rear pads too. The didn't look bad, but I replaced everything. Hopefully don't have to do it again until 150000 miles.

I'll keep the rotors and have them turned before the next brake job.

I did have the "BRAKE WARE SENSOR", Volkswagen's spelling not mine, light up a week ago, and I ordered the parts. My driver side front inner pad was worn to about 4mm of material and the sensor wire was cut through. The other side on the front was nearly cut through on the sensor.

The fronts are straightforward, and except for having to hang the caliper, and disconnect the sensor (it's tricky!!), it was easy, Each rotors requires removing a small capture bolt with a T50 TORX bit. They are not very tight.

The rear caliper removal to get the rotor off also requires a 14mm triple square MALE tool and I bought a bit set in anticipation of the job. Strangely, there are also small threaded plug which is ALSO triple square. It was a 5mm I think. I had to soak those with Kroil (a great anti rust agent) to remove them. I think the threaded bung hole is there for adjusting the parking brake star wheel adjustment through the front of the rotor. I didn't need to do anything with the electronic parking brake system. Just made sure it was off, the rear rotors were very easy to remove. The ELSAWIN manual called for 30NM of torque for the rear caliper bolts PLUS 75° degrees more. A very strange call out. The fronts are 200 foot pounds!! My torque wrench only gets to 150, so I just put a large bar on it and gave them a good tightening.

REAR Specified torques:
Multi-point socket head bolt to wheel bearing housing Use new bolts!
30 Nm + 75° = 22 ft-lb plus 75 degrees - weird -

FRONT Specified torques:
Hexagon bolt to wheel bearing housingt Use new bolts!
270 Nm = 200 ft-lb






Cleaned the slight rust corrosion on the brake surfaces with a wire wheel brush, and installed the rotors. Also I only remembered to spread the brake calipers to maximum on the rear calipers BEFORE removing the calipers. I used a couple screwdrivers to spread as far as possible before taking off the caliper. Installing new pads is very easy. I did no other cleaning or prepping, just swapped pads.

The brake sensors are a bit sticky, and removing the connectors took the most fussing. I didn't want to break the MALE mating part of the connector. When I removed the sensors from the old pads though they each broke into pieces very easily!! Good thing I had new sensors for installing. The plastic must get very brittle from heat.

After reassembly, the parking brakes work fine, and hold even when in gear, no problem as before. A 50 mile brake pad bedding and test drive was excellent. No noise and a small improvement in stopping power. Total time was about 4.5 hours, but knowing what I now know, I bet I could cut that to under 3 hours if I didn't take so many breaks to walk away.
 

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Well done.

Interesting that at 74K you could have got away with just new pads from the sound of things!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well done.

Interesting that at 74K you could have got away with just new pads from the sound of things!
I know, I wasn't expecting a lot of rotor life left over. But the front pads (inner driver side mostly) were worn down near 3mm remaining on the liner, and the sensors showed the wire almost cut through on the passenger side (driver side was cut right through-caused the brake "ware" alarm - no proof readers in Germany or is that the spelling?).

The very odd (surprised) thing is I tow a travel trailer (3000 pounds) anywhere from 1800-2600 miles a year for the last 4 years. Most of that is highway, but I was expecting much more rotor and pad wear.

I am saving those old rotors. I'll have them turned next time I do pads (150K miles???) and it will only cost the pads and sensors.
 

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Brake fluid should be replaced for the first time in a new car at 3 years and thereafter every two years according to VW.

You can also buy a brake fluid tester for under 20 dollars to see for yourself whether the fluid actually needs changing.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Have you replaced the brake fluid as recommended?
Funny you mention this. Nooby is correct 3 years, then every 2 per VW schedule. I was having the dealership do it during the 10K PM services when required. I paid for that service TWO times. ( I currently do NOT use that dealership anymore since last Summer 2017 - 60K mile service).

BUT, when I went to check brake fluid level before pushing the caliper pistons back in, WELL, I could not access the reservoir!! The plastic access flap built into the firewall shield had NEVER been cut in two places to create access. There was NO WAY brake fluid could have been added or accessed. I strongly suspect that it was never performed!!!

Would a service department manager even care if I went back to complain? I just discovered this the past Saturday changing the pads. I didn't have to remove any brake fluid from the reservoir, and it bothers me. Now I have to get one of my brothers to help me bleed them.
 

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I don't know your particular model but it seems strange that the brake fluid reservoir is not readily available in open view so it can be physically eyeballed to check the level.
 

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Golly, I see what you mean now.
 
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