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Photos numbered in logical order of parts replacement of repair coolant leaking in valley from vacuum control valve.

Of course this is just a overview don't attempt this unless you have a good tool kit and back your skills.
HI @dragline1570,

I just completed the repair this afternoon but noticed that after 20 minutes of driving, the coolant has sunk to way below the minimum line again.

I had a look in the valley and it looks like there might be a small build up of coolant still below the new vacuum flange. Is this normal? I'm not sure if the coolant build up is from me not cleaning up the valley completely or if it's a new leak. Kind of worried as it was a lot of work to replace lol!

Any advice would be appreciated. Cheers :)
 
HI @dragline1570,

I just completed the repair this afternoon but noticed that after 20 minutes of driving, the coolant has sunk to way below the minimum line again.

I had a look in the valley and it looks like there might be a small build up of coolant still below the new vacuum flange. Is this normal? I'm not sure if the coolant build up is from me not cleaning up the valley completely or if it's a new leak. Kind of worried as it was a lot of work to replace lol!

Any advice would be appreciated. Cheers :)
There are so many things inside the engine 'vee' that could leak! Originally, my part cover 059 103 525 f had cracked. Along with replacing it, I also replaced the coolant valve, the gaskets (under the oil cooler, the oil cooler plate, the water line into the EGR), and the flange supplying water to the EGR.
Two months later, a small water hose in the return line broke through... so I had to repeat the entire intake manifold disassembly again.
This time, I replaced ALL the perishable components: ALL the rubber hoses under the manifold, a breather pipe that had started to rub, and the plastic water return line pipes.

For a small price for each, it's MUCH better to replace EVERYTHING, than having to repeat this job every few months.

I suggest getting a coolant pressure test kit, and pressurise your system. It should be fairly easy to spot exactly where it is still leaking. But this time, replace all the perishable and heat-sensitive components. :)
And repeat the pressure test again, before re-assembling the manifold.
 
BKS engine. Coolant level would gradually decrease. Could not find a cause. Pressure test was OK.

Then I started to get a lot of coolant accumulating in the Vee. Could not see it but if I did a sudden and hard stop coolant would come forward and be spread around the front of the engine by the belts at the front.

We eventually tracked it down to the gasket on EGR cooler. We assume that it only opened up and leak when hot. I had to replace the complete ERG cooler and valve.

On the BKS engine there is a "O" ring seal on a coolant spigot that fits in the top of the block in the Vee. The repair manual indicates that the "O" ring has to be replaced on reassembly. Of course the dealer did not realise that until they did a pressure check after replacing the cooler. So everything had to come out again to replace that "O" ring.

There is a mod to the bracket that the EGR cooler is mounted to to enable easier removal.
EGR Cooler Bracket Mod
 
Thanks guys, the new small build up doesn't seem to be getting bigger after a day of driving. I've got into the valley with a metal pipe and pat it down dry (few ml's absorbed onto some tissues). Will monitor and fingers crossed I don't see anymore liquid build up!

Coolant levels seem to be stable so far but read it can take a few days to get rid of all the air in the system.
 
Looks like the puddle I saw was just left over excess from the old coolant and the valley is bone dry now - thank god!

Just wondering if you guys also did an oil change after this job? I vacuumed as much coolant as I could when I removed the EGR unit but when I took off the oil cooler and plate, the coolant/oil mixed a bit in the valley but I suctioned it all out until the holes down there were pretty much empty.
 
For anyone who reads this thread and has the same coolant leak filling the valley of the engine and also running down the front of the engine beside the coolant pump don't look at the EGR cooler as the issue!!


It is the vacuum controlled coolant valve leaking that is mounted under the EGR valve behind the oil cooler under the HP pump.


I know that sound somewhat confusing but having repaired 3 of these in the last month (2 x Q7's and 1 x Touareg) i am sure i have figured it out.


VW even updated the coolant valve as the old unit leaks from the shaft that turns the internal valve.


I have photos if any interest and part numbers.


regards
Drag

Having just completed the coolant leak fix, I wanted to say thanks to drag line for the parts list and information. While my problem ended up being the coolant outlet flange, I had already order and had all the parts to replace all the seals in the "v" along with the coolant shut off valve. So now all is well and I expect to have many worry free miles, at least when it comes to coolant leaks in the "v"

Thanks again for all the information dragline.

I have attached a picture of the outlet flange culprit for any that are interested.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wood Bicycle part Auto part
 
I have a '14 TDI and have confirmed that there's a coolant leak from the oil cooler thermostat plug which is located just below the water pump pulley. I think the o-ring is done. I cannot find the part numbers for the plug and/or the o-ring (2 and 3 in the left photo) to save my life. Does anyone have these numbers? I would really appreciate it! Right photo below courtesy of dragline1570.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Rim Font Automotive wheel system
Automotive tire Lighting Audio equipment Plastic bottle Floor
 
I have a '14 TDI and have confirmed that there's a coolant leak from the oil cooler thermostat plug which is located just below the water pump pulley. I think the o-ring is done. I cannot find the part numbers for the plug and/or the o-ring (2 and 3 in the left photo) to save my life. Does anyone have these numbers? I would really appreciate it! Right photo below courtesy of dragline1570.

View attachment 248081 View attachment 248082
PN: 059115185C

There shouldn’t be a coolant leak coming from the oil thermostat though..?

 
PN: 059115185C

There shouldn’t be a coolant leak coming from the oil thermostat though..?
I appreciate that part number! I think it might be oil (not coolant) seeping slowly from that cover. Maybe I got confused after reading post #36. But, in addition to that leak, I also have a slow coolant leak inside the V of the engine. I'm just trying to eliminate this easier-to-fix leak before I tear into the top of the engine and replace all gaskets and plastic parts.
 
I appreciate that part number! I think it might be oil (not coolant) seeping slowly from that cover. Maybe I got confused after reading post #36. But, in addition to that leak, I also have a slow coolant leak inside the V of the engine. I'm just trying to eliminate this easier-to-fix leak before I tear into the top of the engine and replace all gaskets and plastic parts.
Yep I’m in the the same boat. Small coolant leak in the V and still have a leak out the oil thermostat. Slow enough I’ve been living with it but need to get in there and swap in a new one.
 
For anyone who reads this thread and has the same coolant leak filling the valley of the engine and also running down the front of the engine beside the coolant pump don't look at the EGR cooler as the issue!!


It is the vacuum controlled coolant valve leaking that is mounted under the EGR valve behind the oil cooler under the HP pump.


I know that sound somewhat confusing but having repaired 3 of these in the last month (2 x Q7's and 1 x Touareg) i am sure i have figured it out.


VW even updated the coolant valve as the old unit leaks from the shaft that turns the internal valve.


I have photos if any interest and part numbers.


regards
Drag
Hi. Could I have more info on this please. It is happening to my 2013 Audi A6 3.0 tdi Quattro. Loads of coolant in the valley. Replaced water pump already. No loss when idling but take it on a run and it empties out slowly
 
Hi. Could I have more info on this please. It is happening to my 2013 Audi A6 3.0 tdi Quattro. Loads of coolant in the valley. Replaced water pump already. No loss when idling but take it on a run and it empties out slowly
I did this job 2 times. After first replace, it started to leak again. Then I decided to try different approach. All seals replaced again, but this time I also used glue for oil pans. It is called Reinzosil and reliable up to 300°C. Dont forget to change valve (#059121737AM) which also responsible for G12 coolant leak.
 
I just brought my 2013 Q7 TDI (124,500 miles) into the dealer for coolant and oil in the valley. Oil leak was so bad at times that it looked like a bomb of oil exploded inside the engine compartment and even at times on the garage floor. Low coolant light every 5k miles or so but never any on the floor; only the smell of burnt off coolant. They replaced everything that is talked about in this thread and even did the oil cooler and the EGR cooler (they said the EGR cooler was leaking and found it after putting it all back together). All was covered under the extended TDI warranty (4 years/48000 miles). They said the needed oil change wasn't covered so I had to pay for that only.
Font Handwriting Paper Paper product Parallel
 
I just brought my 2013 Q7 TDI (124,500 miles) into the dealer for coolant and oil in the valley. Oil leak was so bad at times that it looked like a bomb of oil exploded inside the engine compartment and even at times on the garage floor. Low coolant light every 5k miles or so but never any on the floor; only the smell of burnt off coolant. They replaced everything that is talked about in this thread and even did the oil cooler and the EGR cooler (they said the EGR cooler was leaking and found it after putting it all back together). All was covered under the extended TDI warranty (4 years/48000 miles). They said the needed oil change wasn't covered so I had to pay for that only. View attachment 248616
If you don't mind me asking, how much did this set you back? I'm considering doing the repair myself.

Sam
 
I've got a 2012 Q7 3.0L V6 which I've had less than 1 year, I've been topping the coolant a lot lately and have noticed a pool of brown water in underneath the intake. It has a small oil leak I've also had overheating problems and lost the heat inside the car. It's a high milage car at 170k, so some problems were expected.

I'm considering doing the job myself and stripping it down, I'm a plant/access fitter by trade so have plenty of tools and experience on diesel engines, but was wondering if anyone who's done this job themselves could give a rundown of all the required tools and equipment for this job to be completed at home.

Thanks in advance.
 
I've got a 2012 Q7 3.0L V6 which I've had less than 1 year, I've been topping the coolant a lot lately and have noticed a pool of brown water in underneath the intake. It has a small oil leak I've also had overheating problems and lost the heat inside the car. It's a high milage car at 170k, so some problems were expected.

I'm considering doing the job myself and stripping it down, I'm a plant/access fitter by trade so have plenty of tools and experience on diesel engines, but was wondering if anyone who's done this job themselves could give a rundown of all the required tools and equipment for this job to be completed at home.

Thanks in advance.
You dont need nothing special. Just regular wrenches for fuel pipes. Then hex and torx for EGR and cooler. Well there is one thing...you need torque wrench, to make sure that u will not damage seals. I did with oil change, because G12 could mess the oil.
 
I've just finished fixing the leak in the valley of my 2012 180kW TDi and just writing to say a massive thanks to the contributors to this thread - particularly those folk that listed part numbers so that I could order from overseas and save a fair amount of money. Also dragline, your pics were ace, thank you!

SJP88 - I fix computers for a living so my mechanicking skills are pretty crap but I sorted it out over a few days. The only tool I think is mandatory is a long (at least 100mm) T30 torx bit to get to some of the fasteners holding the manifold down. I also had the special socket for the fuel rail which made that job a bit easier.

Fair warning - I used a socket to remove the fuel pressure sensor on the right hand rail and I broke it which is the final thing I need to solve.... I bought a new sensor but my ECM doesn't like it and throws a low fuel pressure error and puts the car into limp home mode. Not sure why at this point, the new sensor looks fine with the multimeter but the values are slightly different to the stock sensor. For the moment I've bodge fixed the original sensor and superglued it back together and the engine is running well but hopefully I can get this sorted out soon. I ended up using a 27mm ring spanner to fit and remove the sensor after the socket slipped and broke it.

These guys have a great video showing how to get the manifold out
It takes a bit of a wiggle and then rotating up and backward to clear the rear hoses.

I removed the cross over fuel rail but left the rest of the loom at the rear in situ sorta. After removing the loom tray the wires just sat there, mostly out of the way.

Note that if you're going to remove the EGR cooler it mates against a flange - when you pull the EGR cooler out it's pretty likely you'll break the flange so make sure to order a new one. I ordered everything on dragline's list and I was fine.... note though that his list doesn't have the gaskets for the internals of the EGR cooler assembly, so don't pull it apart once it's out of the V.

The other things I'd suggest - a wet and dry vac makes it easy to clean the coolant out of the V. I also recommend a large syringe with a bit of hose on it to suck out the oil that ends up in the V when you pull the oil/water heat exchanger out.
 
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