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HELP :cry:

I’ve done this twice now in the space of 5 days, it’s soul destroying lol.

I replaced everything drag recommended 👍

The first time I did it I didn’t have a torque wrench that went low enough so I did it all to best guess figures (I know, I know (n)). It leaked coolant into the valley still and I couldn't find the source of the leak, neither after ‘repair’ or originally.

The second time I torqued everything to spec and used a little sealant to help matters. Still leaked! Exactly the same as before, into the valley.

I have noticed that it appears to leak worse when I drive the car and use wide open throttle rather than when my wife does the school run.

Before I start to think about looking into the effort to remove the black coolant thing behind the water pump is there somewhere else I should look?

What symptoms are there for a failed oil cooler or egr cooler?

Or can anyone recommend me somewhere else to look for the fault?

I’m in the Uk and don’t have an extended warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #202
You should at least buy a pressure tester. When replacing all those gaskets, parts, you can do an immediate test after just filling with water instead of coolant. Maybe use the old mechanics trick of making sure everything is dry as a bone and clean after the repair, and putting talc baby powder on every surface, Then perform the pressure test, you'll see if there's even a small drip.
I feel your pain..... there will come a threshold moment when you say F&$K IT !! And then have it repaired at a garage. At least they will have to stand behind the repair for a certain period of time.
 

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Not sure what I've done wrong, but now my valley is full of engine oil (from. Oil cooler) was this.. Is this normal, any advice for how or what may now need cleaning?
236238
 

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Unfortunately, that is meant to happen...
I removed the oil and coolant using a hand pear pump (priming rubber pump) and a silicone hose.
As it is very likely that the oil mixes with coolant, make sure to change the engine oil afterwards.
Also, make sure that all the sealing surfaces are clean before reassembling all the bits and bobs. I used a rotary brass wire brush for that.
I would recommend to replace all the rubber seals too. Even the ones below the oil cooler bottom plate.
I hope it helps.

Gabriel
 

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Thanks for the reply!

What a relief! I thought I had missed something out.


I have suctioned it all up as per pic but my main concern now is that I have some drips of engine oil coming out from the water pump housing (lower part) ( pump was removed to drain the coolant)

Any one have advice on how to flush the oil out? Warm water fed into the oil cooler coolant hole?

Just need to pull thr plate off tomorrow but trying my best to first clean around the edges of the plate so when I lift it, no dirt falls in(have tried hard to remove as much as possible)



Pic attached to for purpose of update and for anyone else reading who may want to see pic
236239
 

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Discussion Starter #206
Just an FYI, if you see oil dripping from the water pump, if you are uncertain, remove the water pump pulley, and check the front crankshaft oil seal. Mine developed a serious "active" leak only a couple months after the water pump was replaced. Big puddle on garage floor. Covered under warranty.
 

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Thanks for the reply John, I appreciate you taking the time to reply. I don't believe this is a leak, I think as I pulled the oil cooler out, a small amount of engine oil found its way into the water pump region or Coming to think of it (not checked yet) it could just be that it overflowed from the valley and started to drip instead of dripping by entering the coolant circuit. I will update as I progress.

Out of curiosity (as I don't have warranty) do you know how involved the repair was for your leak?
 

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Discussion Starter #208
It took the dealership tech roughly a couple hours. I don't even know how they got to or removed the oil seal and replaced it but it was not a long.
If you get oil/coolant all over the top in the valley with the passages opened up, then you do have to change the oil after everything is back together. Probably a good idea to run a coolant flush too , make sure no oil in the coolant passages.
 

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Ah that's not so bad, I can imagine it would only take a day or so if I had to replace the crankshaft seal.

I am confident I didn't get any coolant into the oil passages but judging by the colour of the oil it needs a change anyway so I will change the oil, as for the coolant I will try and flush it, my only concern is what impact any oily residue could have or to make the coolant flush as effective as possible.

Something for others that are reading this who plan to tackle this DIY, it will be very helpful for you to take pictures of every single connector or hose you disconnect.
Reason 1, there are alot of them
Reason 2, you can see from the picture how the wire was routed for that cable, if it needs to go above, below or inbetween other pipes and wires
 
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