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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am surprised with the lack of information about EGR valves, thus I thought to share my experience over the past few days, some pictures too...

It all started with the famous engine light, thankfully orange (red is really bad). Got it into a small local shop, they pulled and cleared a 'P046C EGR sensor 1 signal' code. Drove it 2 miles home, then later that day went out again and the engine light came on a few seconds after start-up. Back into shop a day or 2 later, same code. The shop said, we don't know what to do with the code or trouble shooting it, take it to a Dealer.

Before I did that, being I have 90K miles on it, I was thinking the EGR valve maybe full of carbon and not operated properly. So why not, let's take a look at it.

After a few hours of work, most of which was trying to free the valve from the exhaust cooler assembly. I found using a cold chisel at a angle under the valve and against the cooler housing was able to best loosen it, even this took an hour with working with it. I took a picture of the chisel position to help others understand. Note, there is a plastic linkage connecting the cooler bypass valve to the vacuum actuator which needs to be removed or it will be broken (like I did).

Once the valve was loose a little bit, I sprayed carb cleaner between the valve and housing in an attempt to loosen the carbon. Not sure if this helped or not, later I realized the carb cleaner did react with the o-ring around the top of the valve, causing it to expand and become 1/4 inch diameter larger.

Once the valve was removed, I am pleasantly surprised how clean it is (better some other pics I have seen with similar miles) and yet how hard it was to be removed (next picture in deck). But, it is stuck in the open condition, with the valve off the seat slightly. I tried to move the valve, and it would not budge. After cleaning and spraying with carb cleaner, using a hammer to tap the valve open and closed trying to work the carb cleaner into the stem area, little improvement was made.

From my Dealer suggestion, I then called VW tech support line (1-855-828-4016, they will ask for Dealer info and will forward your question to an expert who will call you back). The VW Tech - Danny helped me to understand how much force is should take to move the stem open. He had 1 at his desk and said he could push it open against his desk, my part was definitely bad. Danny also shared to test the motor further, put 12 vdc across pin 6+ and 2 for ground. I didn't see the need to test my stuck valve any further.

Ordered a new valve, VW #059131502B and o-ring N90062702 which is set to arrive in a few days. List price was around $350.

Until then, I cleaned up the valve and housing with a scotch brite and vacuumed out the debris. Tapped the old part closed and reinstalled it, as I do not have a spare vehicle until fresh valve arrives.

This all occurred on Friday afternoon. After some driving Saturday, a few start and stops the light went off!! I am amazed... I suspect there was some carb cleaner remaining on the part and a few thermal cycles freed up the valve?

Moving forward, I will keep my parts on order (take delivery tomorrow) and have a spare EGR valve on hand as I have no idea how long the existing valve will continue to work properly. When I get the o-ring, I will install it to insure the joint is sealed. I will also add a step to my oil change routine and remove the EGR cover and sensor (easily done by removing 3 screws), spray with some high temperature lubricant in an attempt to prevent the valve from sticking again.

Anyone else have an experience like this? It's a lengthy post, hopefully we all can learn some more about the EGR valve from this post. Let me know if there are questions. Pictures are attached.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
First picture is cold chisel angle and position to wedge out the EGR valve.

Second is EGR valve agter removal and prior to cleaning.

Third is showing the motor shaft, cam, return spring and valve.

When I remove the valve again to install the new o-ring I will add a picture of the position sensor in cap and pin out on connector.
 

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Excellent post but I can only see the one picture in post #3 . . .

Interesting you can phone VW for technical help too.
 

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very interesting! I too am surprised about how lil info is out about the EGR. I couldn't even find a how to on removing the intake manifold (I tried to do this myself using the manual but I couldn't get the manifolf out from under the fuel lines and coolant line)

I too had the engine light come on last week, took it to a dealer and they said they cleaned said parts. after I got home I found out they just cleared the fault proven by the pics below of my intake butterfly that I removed and cleaned myself and it ws smothered in black sooty crap!

before cleaning



After Cleaning
 

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I've had to replace the EGR valve and mine was also very stuck in the EGR cooler assembly. Mine wouldn't come out without tapping it several times. I ended up cracking the aluminum on the valve that supports the servo motor, but replaced the entire valve so no big deal.

I've also had the pleasure of removing the air intakes (without removing coolant or fuel lines), replacing the EGR cooler and also the auxiliary EGR cooler as well. If anyone is interested in photos or answers I can likely help.

Cheers
 

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I've had to replace the EGR valve and mine was also very stuck in the EGR cooler assembly. Mine wouldn't come out without tapping it several times. I ended up cracking the aluminum on the valve that supports the servo motor, but replaced the entire valve so no big deal.

I've also had the pleasure of removing the air intakes (without removing coolant or fuel lines), replacing the EGR cooler and also the auxiliary EGR cooler as well. If anyone is interested in photos or answers I can likely help.

Cheers
I would love to know how you got it all out without removing the lines! I was struggling hard with it earlier!

also howd you get the EGR assembly out without the cooler.... I just undid the 3 bolts but couldn't get the EGR to budge! I don't really wanna start wailing on it incase I break something
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
To get the valve out of the cooler assembly I used a cold chisel inserted from the fire wall toward the EGR valve. Placing it between the cooler housing and the bottom of the EGR motor, as close to the mounting flange as you can get. See the first picture with the chisel just left of the EGR port.

There is a casting web in the underside corner of the motor and flange which was broken out in the process. It probably took an hour of tapping the chisel with a hammer and wiggling back and forth to get it out.
 

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There is an O-ring near the bolted flange of the EGR valve. It will come out with the valve.

Removing the intake just required removing all bolts on the intake and EGR connection the the intake. I may have removed one of the bolts that holds down a coolant line (but didn't remove line completely). It took some wiggling of the intake towards the front of the vehicle to slide it out.

Don't be afraid to disconnect a fuel line or coolant line. I found that very little fluid came out since they're on the top of the engine. They will also purge themselves when you start up anyways. I turned the key on without my foot on the brake just to allow all the pumps to prime the lines, then switched it off and started it normally.
 

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very interesting! I too am surprised about how lil info is out about the EGR. I couldn't even find a how to on removing the intake manifold (I tried to do this myself using the manual but I couldn't get the manifolf out from under the fuel lines and coolant line)

I too had the engine light come on last week, took it to a dealer and they said they cleaned said parts. after I got home I found out they just cleared the fault proven by the pics below of my intake butterfly that I removed and cleaned myself and it ws smothered in black sooty crap!

before cleaning



After Cleaning
If the butterfly valve looks like that I cannot see how the intercoolers are NOT as bad or worse and have lost most cooling efficiency.
 

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Zagg your exactly right. Like where does this stop?

Should i just start tearing everything off n clean it all?

Wher do you think this oily sludge is coming from? the egr side or something more serious like 'gulp' the turbo? As in oil seals?
 

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Zagg,

Was the EGR on yours removed / deleted when you went to Les as part of the whole thing?

Thanks
The EGR is still in place. However, it is blanked off so no exhaust is going to it. I have no idea if it is actually functioning. Weather it is actually functioning or not I think it has to be there, connected so the ECU see's that it is indeed there. Weather it is actually doing anything is a separate issue.
 

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Zagg your exactly right. Like where does this stop?

Should i just start tearing everything off n clean it all?

Wher do you think this oily sludge is coming from? the egr side or something more serious like 'gulp' the turbo? As in oil seals?
The oily sludge is coming from the cyclonic oil separator/crank case breather that goes to the charged air side of the turbo. See this thread....

http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f93/2010-tdi-turbo-blow-by-pics-87067-3.html

I believe the oily mist/fumes coming from the cyclonic oil separator is coating everything in the charge air system. When it gets to where the EGR gases enter the system and they mix the build-up gets worse.

To take the whole system apart and clean has been on list of things to do for a while. I'll do it this summer. And I'm gonna just elephant tube the gases coming from the cyclonic oil separator.
 
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