I am surprised with the lack of information about EGR valves, thus I thought to share my experience over the past few days, some pictures too...
It all started with the famous engine light, thankfully orange (red is really bad). Got it into a small local shop, they pulled and cleared a 'P046C EGR sensor 1 signal' code. Drove it 2 miles home, then later that day went out again and the engine light came on a few seconds after start-up. Back into shop a day or 2 later, same code. The shop said, we don't know what to do with the code or trouble shooting it, take it to a Dealer.
Before I did that, being I have 90K miles on it, I was thinking the EGR valve maybe full of carbon and not operated properly. So why not, let's take a look at it.
After a few hours of work, most of which was trying to free the valve from the exhaust cooler assembly. I found using a cold chisel at a angle under the valve and against the cooler housing was able to best loosen it, even this took an hour with working with it. I took a picture of the chisel position to help others understand. Note, there is a plastic linkage connecting the cooler bypass valve to the vacuum actuator which needs to be removed or it will be broken (like I did).
Once the valve was loose a little bit, I sprayed carb cleaner between the valve and housing in an attempt to loosen the carbon. Not sure if this helped or not, later I realized the carb cleaner did react with the o-ring around the top of the valve, causing it to expand and become 1/4 inch diameter larger.
Once the valve was removed, I am pleasantly surprised how clean it is (better some other pics I have seen with similar miles) and yet how hard it was to be removed (next picture in deck). But, it is stuck in the open condition, with the valve off the seat slightly. I tried to move the valve, and it would not budge. After cleaning and spraying with carb cleaner, using a hammer to tap the valve open and closed trying to work the carb cleaner into the stem area, little improvement was made.
From my Dealer suggestion, I then called VW tech support line (1-855-828-4016
, they will ask for Dealer info and will forward your question to an expert who will call you back). The VW Tech - Danny helped me to understand how much force is should take to move the stem open. He had 1 at his desk and said he could push it open against his desk, my part was definitely bad. Danny also shared to test the motor further, put 12 vdc across pin 6+ and 2 for ground. I didn't see the need to test my stuck valve any further.
Ordered a new valve, VW #059131502B and o-ring N90062702 which is set to arrive in a few days. List price was around $350.
Until then, I cleaned up the valve and housing with a scotch brite and vacuumed out the debris. Tapped the old part closed and reinstalled it, as I do not have a spare vehicle until fresh valve arrives.
This all occurred on Friday afternoon. After some driving Saturday, a few start and stops the light went off!! I am amazed... I suspect there was some carb cleaner remaining on the part and a few thermal cycles freed up the valve?
Moving forward, I will keep my parts on order (take delivery tomorrow) and have a spare EGR valve on hand as I have no idea how long the existing valve will continue to work properly. When I get the o-ring, I will install it to insure the joint is sealed. I will also add a step to my oil change routine and remove the EGR cover and sensor (easily done by removing 3 screws), spray with some high temperature lubricant in an attempt to prevent the valve from sticking again.
Anyone else have an experience like this? It's a lengthy post, hopefully we all can learn some more about the EGR valve from this post. Let me know if there are questions. Pictures are attached.
It all started with the famous engine light, thankfully orange (red is really bad). Got it into a small local shop, they pulled and cleared a 'P046C EGR sensor 1 signal' code. Drove it 2 miles home, then later that day went out again and the engine light came on a few seconds after start-up. Back into shop a day or 2 later, same code. The shop said, we don't know what to do with the code or trouble shooting it, take it to a Dealer.
Before I did that, being I have 90K miles on it, I was thinking the EGR valve maybe full of carbon and not operated properly. So why not, let's take a look at it.
After a few hours of work, most of which was trying to free the valve from the exhaust cooler assembly. I found using a cold chisel at a angle under the valve and against the cooler housing was able to best loosen it, even this took an hour with working with it. I took a picture of the chisel position to help others understand. Note, there is a plastic linkage connecting the cooler bypass valve to the vacuum actuator which needs to be removed or it will be broken (like I did).
Once the valve was loose a little bit, I sprayed carb cleaner between the valve and housing in an attempt to loosen the carbon. Not sure if this helped or not, later I realized the carb cleaner did react with the o-ring around the top of the valve, causing it to expand and become 1/4 inch diameter larger.
Once the valve was removed, I am pleasantly surprised how clean it is (better some other pics I have seen with similar miles) and yet how hard it was to be removed (next picture in deck). But, it is stuck in the open condition, with the valve off the seat slightly. I tried to move the valve, and it would not budge. After cleaning and spraying with carb cleaner, using a hammer to tap the valve open and closed trying to work the carb cleaner into the stem area, little improvement was made.
From my Dealer suggestion, I then called VW tech support line (1-855-828-4016
Ordered a new valve, VW #059131502B and o-ring N90062702 which is set to arrive in a few days. List price was around $350.
Until then, I cleaned up the valve and housing with a scotch brite and vacuumed out the debris. Tapped the old part closed and reinstalled it, as I do not have a spare vehicle until fresh valve arrives.
This all occurred on Friday afternoon. After some driving Saturday, a few start and stops the light went off!! I am amazed... I suspect there was some carb cleaner remaining on the part and a few thermal cycles freed up the valve?
Moving forward, I will keep my parts on order (take delivery tomorrow) and have a spare EGR valve on hand as I have no idea how long the existing valve will continue to work properly. When I get the o-ring, I will install it to insure the joint is sealed. I will also add a step to my oil change routine and remove the EGR cover and sensor (easily done by removing 3 screws), spray with some high temperature lubricant in an attempt to prevent the valve from sticking again.
Anyone else have an experience like this? It's a lengthy post, hopefully we all can learn some more about the EGR valve from this post. Let me know if there are questions. Pictures are attached.
