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2011 Touareg 7p air suspension issue

17K views 73 replies 14 participants last post by  Veloch 
#1 ·
Hi,

I have read several posts regarding air suspension issues on the Touareg, but haven't quite found the answers to my issue.

I recently bought my first Touareg. I'm very happy with the car, but a trip to the mountains for new years eve, made the happiness a little less happy. I live in Norway, so winters are cold and on the said trip it dropped to -16C during nighttime. Starting the car in the morning, i had the "Stop! Error running gear" message show up. Checking around a bit, it turned out the 40A fuse (F56) on drivers side (suspension compressor pump) had gone out. A bit tricky to get a new one, but I left the car running without the fuse for about 1 hour. Then i switched it off, put in the fuse, and all was good enought to get home.

It was all good for a while, and then it got cold where I live too and the problem returned. I had it at a VW-shop for repairing something else, and they had a quick look at the air suspension problem as well. They said there was no leaks, but the relay for air suspension had to be changed and they out in some condensation remover into the compressor. They also said if the problems continiued, the whole compressor would have to be changed. The quote from them was about $2500.

It has been working lately most of the time, but again the cold came and problem returned. This morning i heard the compressor working hard and loud, and some squaking sound like something had been frozen stuck and the compressor was trying to get it loose. Got the error message, checked the fuse - not broken. Took the fuse out, drove a bit back and forth in my driveway and put the fuse back in and started the car again. Worked all good.

In my non-professional mind it seems like something get's stuck when its really cold and pushes the compressor to max trying to get it loose again.

Anyone have some ideas?
 
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#2 ·
It reads like you have moisture in the system that is freezing. When the car warms the ice turns back to water and normal service is resumed. There are other similar threads on here.

There has been a recent thread where the owner had the system purged with nitrogen.

I think there is there is a dessicant pack in the pump. Perhaps this has become too contaminated with water.

Hopefully others better versed in air suspension will contribute.
 
#3 ·
It reads like you have moisture in the system that is freezing. When the car warms the ice turns back to water and normal service is resumed. There are other similar threads on here.

There has been a recent thread where the owner had the system purged with nitrogen.

I think there is there is a dessicant pack in the pump. Perhaps this has become too contaminated with water.

Hopefully others better versed in air suspension will contribute.
Thanks for the reply.

Yes, that was my thought as well, that moisture freezing. The odd thning is that today, I only had the car running for about 5 minutes until it worked again. Thats why I'm thinking the major part of the problem is something else than moisture, but thats only a theory i have cooked up.

I saw the nitrogen purging, that is on my list to ask the mechanic about when/if i have someone fix it. The same with dessicant.

My issue is that the VW dealer couldn't/wouldn't do anything other than put in a new compressor. Thats why I'm now trying to find a DIY-solution, or something more specific to ask another workshop to try/have a look at. My experience so far is that there isn't that much experience around with problems like this in the workshops where i live (Oslo, Norway).
 
#4 ·
This is a total shot in the dark, but....

If it only takes a few minutes for something - whatever it might be - to "unfreeze" and the system to work normally then my thinking is that the only thing in the air suspension system that is working hard enough to generate any warmth is the air compressor itself.

You can buy a service pack for GB £25 for Wabco compressors by the way.

Look up www.bagpipingandy.com
 
#5 ·
This is a total shot in the dark, but....

If it only takes a few minutes for something - whatever it might be - to "unfreeze" and the system to work normally then my thinking is that the only thing in the air suspension system that is working hard enough to generate any warmth is the air compressor itself.

You can buy a service pack for GB £25 for Wabco compressors by the way.

Look up www.bagpipingandy.com
Yes, that sounds reasonable.

I have only been able to find, also on the site you linked, kits for up to 2010 model Touareg. This is, as far as I understand, the previous model of mine and a different air suspension system.
 
#10 ·
Yes, sounds about the same as I did today. Exiting to see what will happen tomorrow morning!


Hi, have the same issue's.
When it drops under -14 F the Valve Block freeze's. Put a heating fan om it and it works again. Have used 3x 40A fuse's som far.

I have just replaced the compressor and the problem is the same. So i have concluded that condensation is the problem. Bought a can of West-Frost (Air brake anti-freeeze) and are planning on putting it in the system.
Hi! Ok, so replacing the compressor is no guaranteed fix then. Good to know! The west-frost idea sounds like a good one. As TommiT mentioned above, there’s some posts about people that have had their system filled with nitrogen, but I’m not sure how/where to do that.
 
#9 ·
Hi, have the same issue's.
When it drops under -14 F the Valve Block freeze's. Put a heating fan om it and it works again. Have used 3x 40A fuse's som far.

I have just replaced the compressor and the problem is the same. So i have concluded that condensation is the problem. Bought a can of West-Frost (Air brake anti-freeeze) and are planning on putting it in the system.
 
#11 · (Edited)
And another one with the same problem.
Has only blown fuses when it's been outside in the cold. But a few times the compressor has made the same sound and interior lights blinking like it does before the fuse is blown even when it has been in the garage. However the fuse has remained intact and the compressor has started working normally after a few seconds.

Had the car to VW for diagnose and they found these codes.
C10D307: Level Control System mechanical malfunction
C10D407: Level control system control head mechanical malfunction

They want to change the compressor and valve block (sold as one unit). Trying to get this covered by the company that sold the car as I've only had it a while.
 
#14 ·
I unfortuneately bought the car privately, so no going after the seller. At least not with the way our legal stuff works.

Only fuses blown here as well, so no problem for me to change a few fuses from now and then. The problem is when the wife is using the car 😂



wow seems a theme with you guys way up north. I'm surprised no one from Russia / Canada have chimed in ???

Question re if there may be moisture in the system ... how old is the vehicle and therefore how much moisture ?

Also re other members if it is the valve block the tricky question of how to protect and test ??

Interesting thread im in .. good luck boys ;)

Dont forget any major work being done and with enough kms on the clock i would replace the relay as well. Its the weak link in this whole system ... besides the fuse.
There might very well be moisture in the system. Where I live it’s around -10 and regular snow, but they use a lot of salt on the roads so we’re basically driving on salty slushy ice half the year. Not exactly a cars best friend.

My car has run 117000 and is a 2011 model.
 
#12 ·
wow seems a theme with you guys way up north. I'm surprised no one from Russia / Canada have chimed in ???

Question re if there may be moisture in the system ... how old is the vehicle and therefore how much moisture ?

Also re other members if it is the valve block the tricky question of how to protect and test ??

Interesting thread im in .. good luck boys ;)

Dont forget any major work being done and with enough kms on the clock i would replace the relay as well. Its the weak link in this whole system ... besides the fuse.
 
#19 ·
wow seems a theme with you guys way up north. I'm surprised no one from Russia / Canada have chimed in ???
Not so far away from Russia... ~300km to border and ~250km to Arctic Circle = City of Oulu.

Actually yesterday morning my front suspension was "down" but rear was still on "normal" height. Heated ~15min with Eber and when turn ignition on car returned to normal driving position. It was -25C at that time. I drove car to my garage and there it is still. Tomorrow longer trip so lets hope everything is ok. I assume so. These are quite robust vehicles. Short driving and moisture+ freezing temperatures are challenge but when car is heated with longer trip they will perform as in summer time.

I had W164 MB some timeago and it had similar issues.
 
#13 ·
Have to say VW diagnose of the problem seems a bit simplified. (Just hook up computer and read fault codes)
Of course there is going to be fault codes on the compressor if it can't run properly. But they don't pay any mind to what is keeping it from running, just want to replace the expensive part without further investigation.
 
#22 ·
Hi! I haven't had any more problems with mine, but I'm not sure what the reason is. It has gotten a little bit milder temperatures, but I have still had -10 an even some more.

I cleaned my car in a heated and very dry indoor facility here the other day, and I rode the suspension from "Load" to "Offroad special" several times. I was thinking this might dry up a bit inside the compressor. Not sure if this has helped or if its the milder temperatures doing it.

Currently I'm not planning to do any big fixing, as it's working ok for now.

Anyone know where the air intake for the compressor is? I was thinking maybe I could make sure that the air coming in is dry, by placing some silica or similar there. Think i read somewhere online that the intake is in the trunk, but I haven't seen anything.
 
#26 ·
I’m not saying it’s this or that, but I’ve asked several workshops if they can refill the system with nitrogen and all of them have asked what I’m talking about.

I’ve also been in contact with bagpipingandy(.com, who sells repair kits for compressors) and sent pictures of the labels on my compressor. According to him/they, it’s not a closed loop system.
 
#27 ·
Overview of components
For the first time, the air suspension system on the Touareg 2011 is a closed system. The closed system has the following advantages compared with the open system:
● Reduction of the storage volume required for the air system
● Air exchanged only between air spring dampers and pressure accumulator during normal regulation
● Clearly lower pressure difference during regulation
● Use of a smaller compressor that weighs less, runs quieter and consumes less power

Taken from Self-study Programme 469
 
#38 ·
7P has a closed-loop system. It's more plausible that the malfunction at subzero temperature is a result of condensation of moisture in the system occasioned by a leak somewhere.

As Metalhead_79 says replacing the pump won't sort this out- although I'm inclined to think the improvements seen after replacing the pump may have been because the original pump may have had a worn piston ring from being over worked!

IMHO look for a leak, use VCDS to determine tank pressure if anything less that 10 then you can be certain the system is leaking pressure somewhere. Once done refill with nitrogen as per manufacturer.
 
#40 ·
My problems started a few weeks ago after the last fishing trip of the season. Car sat on a parkinglot over the weekend and the temperature went from 0ish to -20 or so. I started the car and got a running gear fault. I couldnt hear the compressor and the car hadnt sunk from any corner, so I figured frozen silica in the moisture trap was the issue. I drove back home and had the car sit for 3 days in a warm garage, but the problem persisted.

So I started calling shops and, no suprises here, they all wanted to start replacing parts. One shop offered to test the compressor first, so I took there. They replaced tested it with direct current and said it was broken. They quoted me a new one for 1400€ + work. So I asked if they would install parts that I provided and they said yes. So I ordered a new one from Germany for 430e + delivery and took it to the shop. They installed it and I got the car back. This had fixed the running gear error and car seemed to work fine.

The next day I went about my day, driving from jobsite to jobsite around the countryside for a total of 350ish km. I noticed the relay for the compressor was clicking often. I couldnt hear it running over the roadnoise but whenever I stopped I could hear the compressor running for 15 to 20 seconds, stopping and starting again every few minutes. So I got home and called the shop.

I took the car back with the understanding that the shop would check the system for leaks. The car was not dropping from any corner, but I figured it might leak from somewhere close to the compressor. They took almost a full day to check the car and found no leaks, but discovered that the air accumulator only had 3-4 bars of pressure in it. They tried to get the compressor to build pressure, but it wouldnt, despite running. At this point I had googled the issue alot and knew about the nitrous fill. I asked them to do it, but they didnt have the right tool to fit the accumulator.

So now I have the car back, wondering what to do next.
 
#41 ·
Almost exactly the same story as mine then. The relay is clicking often.

Mine is back in the shop, and they said it’s not building the correct pressure, and they suspect the new compressor is faulty. They’re trying with a new one on Monday.

I asked them again about the nitrogen filling, and they said it’s correct but that they’ve stopped doing it. The same has Møller (the absolute main VAG chain in Norway) - stopped doing it. They say it’s not that big of a difference, and that the nitrogen will be switched out with air after a while anyway. But if I manage to find a place that will fill it, I’ll do it.
 
#45 ·
My 7P suspension is down and I have bought a repair set for it compressor, valve block, relay. Where this Nitrogen filling area should be, is there a tank with seal between compressed air and pipes connected to air shocks? Air is 78% Nitrogen so basicly everything is Nitrogen filled but air can be very wet depending of weather. I got about 3 months nice airride on my "new" Touareg before real winter kicked in and my fun was over. Vacuum in warm garage would kick out moisture but will it kill valves or seals in struts? Spare parts where quit cheap in ebayde about 300usd and I'm very shure you can't get anything from dealer under 1000. Compressor has quit large plastic box between rubber hose and cylinder head which propaply conteins filter and air drier.
 
#46 ·
SLEI according to your details your Treg is a 2009 7L which had different air suspension compressor system from the 7P.

The 7L ran on air and had an open system which sucked in air and vented air as the suspension height setting and load went up and down. It both sucked and vented through the air dryer so the dry air coming out regenerated the drier ( mainly) so it worked drying the wet air coming in. This system clearly has problems once the drier effectiveness drops of over time especially in cold wet climates with corrosion inside the system

On the 7P the system was changed to a closed system with an initial nitrogen that only drew in air via the compressor if the system pressure in the reservoir dropped to low. In normal operation the nitrogen initial charge is recirculated by the compressor between the reservoir and the struts as necessary to maintain the required height. i presume their is some sort of warning if the reservoir pressure drops to low such that the system sucks in external air ?

regards
Rohan
 
#47 ·
I just updated my profile my older Touareg was 7L with steel springs. I have seen many compressor change and repair videos and pictures of parts, compressor area parts look very much same on 7L and 7P, piston ring repair set may even fit to new modell compressor. I think I have some kind of leak, one week parking below freezing sank suspension down and after a month fuse was burned and suspesion didn't rise again.
 
#48 ·
If you have a leak on a 7P system then the compressor will eventually draw external air in to keep adequate pressure in the reservoir as i understand it. it appears this is not alarmed when it happens and in cold weather you risk water in the wet air that may have been drawn in over an extended period freezing in the system and causing problems.

cheers
Rohan
 
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