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2008 T2: Low dust front pad recommendations w/o the lecture?!?!

5778 Views 46 Replies 16 Participants Last post by  ostrici
I just read a few WAY to long threads that were meandering and overly analytical about eurospec, etc...still never got the answers I wanted. Someone spoon feed me.

The 2008 doesn't have the options as much as earlier years from what I can tell. No Hawk LTE options for my year.

Regardless who has the best experience and with what on a 08-09 T2 with low dust. Looking at Pelican Parts and I see about 6 options for the 300mm fronts.

ATE Ceramic: yeah...yeah...yeah I read the post and know how you guys say the sun will explode if get those.
Bosch Euroline

As we know the OEMs are unbearble. I can spend an hour cleaning my wheels to have them black again by the next weekend. Don't have this issue with my other heavy trucks!

What do you like for your sanity and stopping power?
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Today I took snaps of all the wheels around. *Last time my Treg was washed on 3 Sep 2016. 13 days passed (driving daily).
Actually an update for me too...I brought the T2 to work (50 miles) and since Tuesday night I've put about 90 miles on the T2. Now in my wheels defense I did drive it to the top of a 1000ft ski hill this AM with a few 40 degree climbs but the descent was a considerably more shallow path. I'm sure that contributed to half the dust you see here.


Cannot wait for my ceramic pad this weekend to see if my cleaning days are behind me!


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I am only one voice but I would NOT be calling Geoff. I am probably the only one on this board with a negative experience with his offering. I paid approximately $800 (plus $200 install) for replacement pagid pads, pagid rotors, and misc hardware which he touted as the OEM equivalent/replacement. His replacement package only lasted me approximately 28,000 miles and dusted like crazy. The original OEM setup lasted 109,000 miles with limited dust. I went back to the original OEM parts $1,200 installed. Lesson learned. (You can search my other posts regarding my experience).
Our 11 Touareg is at 85K with original brakes that work really well with virtually no dusting, I expect to get to 100K or more before needing to replace brakes and if the OEM set up can last that long how do you justify not going to dealer and getting the exact same OEM parts ?

Even when I buy the expensive aftermarket brake parts I never get close to the longevity of the brake set up on this Touareg on any other vehicle I have ever owned.

This is just my opinion, everyone is free to do what they think is best.
You sir are freak of nature then!

I wish I took a photo of mine as I washed the T2 two nights ago. It was close to a month since I last washed the wheels but I only drive the T2 to work once a week and to the lake (120 miles) on the weekend with a few quick trips around town. They were about 50% black with dust! I'll confirm when I pull them off this weekend if they are truly OEM but the guy I bought my T2 from appeared to ONLY service it at Vw post warranty. He had every oil change record still does with I assumed he brakes and such too.
Here are mine -- last washed Saturday, 3 September by hand. Only light rain, also driven daily. Waxed them over a year ago, will probably give them a good scrub with wheel cleaner and wax again this weekend for the winter.

Waxing wheels (hard shell!) is a PITA, but it makes washing very, very easy - even a good drive-thru place will usually blast them clean for the first couple months.


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OK...for those that find this post and want a follow up.

I found highly affordable StopTech pads (carbon/ceramic) with two cross drilled/slotted rotors and sensors for under $210.00 on Amazon. PM me if you need the link. Everything fit just fine. As mentioned before these pads are cross referenced for the new corvette and SS camero when you take the numbers off the StopTech box and reverse search them! Not sure about the rotors.

I really could have cared less if they were slotted/drilled but that was the best deal out there. They are clearly coated and well made and spot on when I mic'd them.

Additionally, they gave me two sets of front sensors so I have an extra set for the rears. If these work out well I'll find the similar set for rears for next spring.

At 140K miles my front left caliper had a piston that would not retract. I popped it out and found the chrome coming off the piston. Since I could find no available rebuild kits locally (will continue to search online) I decided to bead blast off the corrosion, cleaned it up and put it back in as the seal was in great shape. The inside of the caliper was still smooth and the internal seal was good. There is no reason this shouldn't last me a bit.

Bled front rotors (inside first then outside drain) and flushed out with new fluid with a Powerbleeder.

Will report back in a few weeks and months on how this $210 set of pad/rotors work out...especially with dust!
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Follow up to my own's been a bit over a month and these carbon/ceramics are major improvements with dust. They also stop as well or if not better then the pains. I believe they were pains as they said germany on them. I thing these are actually a more firm stop (not as mushy) but not requiring more power or panic at all and the includes my 3K boat/trailer with no brakes.

I'll assume the rears are still paigns and they dust WAAAYY more then the new fronts. Since when does a back set of pads make more a mess then fronts!?!?

I've put about 2K miles on them.

I rate these stop techs pads and cross drilled/slotted rotors an A+ one month later. Will continue to report back.
Toss in a set of steel braided lines now... maybe even some ATE Super Blue...
I can say I use TRW now and there is less dust than with ATE. Why I switched ? Because 1000km after I replaced all the original disks and pads with ATE I had a vibration in the steering wheel and pedal during braking.
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