[lachoradkov]

Hello to everyone in the community.

I had issue with my variable intake system. One of the stoppers on the cast part that stop the levers from the spring tension broke. Those cast parts are not sold anywhere, eventually you need new intake manifold for $2k+…

I managed to find the right person who made those for me from billet aluminum. If anybody looks for those part you can message me. Price is $250 for both


you can also buy new seals for the inside where the shaft is going through. I bought mine from China because I couldn’t find them here but you can try searching more because I did wait around 2 weeks for those to arrive.

I reused the outer o-rings…

15X21X5 FKM Oil Seal FPM TC

15X21X5 FKM Oil Seal FPM Metric TC Oil Seal

TC 15X21X5 FKM Oil Seal Material: FKM 70 ShA Operating Temperature Range: -20°C/-4°F – 250°C/482°F Max Pressure: 0.3bar Speed: ≤ 35 m/s

www.veryseal.com

P.S When disassembling, mark the pivot levers position with the shafts inside

 

[lachoradkov]

 

[New2Tregs]

Nicely done!
Billet will definitely outlast cast. Have you installed it and how was the fitment?

 

[lachoradkov]

I am still waiting several more days for new shaft gaskets that go inside those parts and I will install them.

also I bought the aluminum links from gruvenparts. I’ll upload more photos once assembled.

 

[MidnightTouaregV8]

Shiny...I like!

 

[SaVAGeSoot]

That is a silly expensive way to add a simple stop... but it looks cool for sure!

 

[lachoradkov]

Well yes, but it had to be done…

Gruvenparts made the lever and the links from billet aluminum and now with this part the whole intake system can be way more reliable

 

[lachoradkov]

 

[dapinitial]

A-Ma-Zing

 

[AlexUK]

View attachment 254957

Interesting that on my 2003 car the vacuum port is plugged/unused (see Red circle) whereas on yours it is used for something. Do you happen to know where that vacuum pipe goes to on your car? Is your engine FSi?

Edit: I don't think 2006 was FSi. Maybe your car was specified with additional accessories compared to mine.

 

[lachoradkov]

Not sure what is it’s function but here are some photos. It goes somewhere behind the engine…

Did you make you photo while the engine was running? When engine is off, your vacuum pods must be fully expanded by the tension of the springs…

 

[AlexUK]

Thanks for the pics.

Wow, you raise a very interesting point about the vacuum pods. That pic was taken with the engine off and I have just noticed that the pod arms are mounted to the wrong springs! Can you see? So I think I need to prise off the ball joints and swap arm connections A and B:

Maybe someone disassembled the system then re-built it the wrong way, maybe even before I owned the car.

However, it is interesting to note in this YouTube video that the vacuum pods are compressed initially:

 

[lachoradkov]

😯 Yes. Yours are switched…

My understanding was that the pods should be streched by the springs when engine is off, then when engine is running, vacuum is applied and they shrink…
At least that’s what mine do…

 

[lachoradkov]

Change them and tell how are the acting…
Because yours are swapped they cannot fully reach the stoppers and they are sitting mid position

 

[bluedoggiant]

This product is interesting, who made it? Would have been nice to know before replacing my manifold, but alas my shafts were seized in it anyway.

On the new intake manifold I used gruvenparts links but the levers would not fit over the shafts.

 

[lachoradkov]

This product is interesting, who made it? Would have been nice to know before replacing my manifold, but alas my shafts were seized in it anyway.

On the new intake manifold I used gruvenparts links but the levers would not fit over the shafts.

Basically the only contact points of the shafts are inside the back of the manifold where they go in and through the inside of those billet parts and the rubber seal…. If yours were jammed was most likely to be fixed by cleaning the tunnels with the wirebrush attachment on the dremel or get new billet parts

 

[bluedoggiant]

Basically the only contact points of the shafts are inside the back of the manifold where they go in and through the inside of those billet parts and the rubber seal…. If yours were jammed was most likely to be fixed by cleaning the tunnels with the wirebrush attachment on the dremel or get new billet parts

Yeah that piece you had created was broken when the shop was attempting to do the wirebrush fix. But I’m saying even on the brand new intake manifold, the gruvenparts lever would not fit (though the links worked).

 

[AlexUK]

Change them and tell how are the acting…
Because yours are swapped they cannot fully reach the stoppers and they are sitting mid position

I swapped the arms over but the spring-loaded actuators seems to be frozen solid so when I can muster the enthusiasm I will follow the Gruvenparts re-build procedure. At least the arms are now in the right place and didn't snap!

Thanks a lot for highlighting this issue to me with your comment regarding the vacuum pods.

This car is testing me lately. Yesterday the radiator fans wouldn't stop running so I have ordered both coolant temperature sensors and will replace those. Both fans currently unplugged. Two weeks ago I replaced the starter motor and 12 months ago I had the front diff re-built and both front wheel bearings replaced. My enthusiasm for further spannering is currently a 3 out of 10...

 

[AlexUK]

I did this job today and cleaned up the corrosion in the inside of both stopper housings. Very satisfying and I can now turn the flaps against the spring pressure using my fingers.

However, I think there is an issue with the electronic change-over valves; when the engine is started the left pod is not receiving any vacuum pressure and remains fully inflated and when the engine is switched off the right pod remains fully compressed under vacuum suction (per pic, below).

I will check if the valves are receiving power tomorrow.

(EDIT: The right vacuum pod remaining fully compressed after engine shutdown is not necessarily an issue. The system can retain vacuum pressure for hours due to the vehicle's vacuum reservoir situated below the front left headlight, behind the wheel arch liner)

 

[AlexUK]

Two replacement solenoids (used from eBay) fitted and now the vacuum pods are behaving correctly at engine start up and the lower flap is definitely working (recorded the operation on video at ~2.6k rpm).

Disappointed that there is no discernible difference on the road but happy that it is all working. A very simple and satisfying fix. I lightly greased the innards of the stoppers and will manually test them occasionally to ensure they don't seize up again - with engine off you should be able to push against the springs with finger pressure.

Thanks again for highlighting this issue.

I also replaced the rear coolant temperature sensor (G62), which cured the radiator fans issue, so hopefully no more dramas from this car for the rest of the year...