Club Touareg Forum banner

2006 V10 TDI Fuel Filter Replacement DIY

1 reading
50K views 35 replies 18 participants last post by  Crispy3  
#1 ·
These are the steps that I used to change the 06V10 fuel filter.
The 06V10 has one filter. It's not difficult


1) remove 4 torx screws that secure fuel filter cover & bleeder screw.
2) remove fuel filter hoses (2) from rubber bracket affixed to large hose near engine and lift housing lid out of way as necessary (no need to remove 4 fuel hoses from lid)
3) use pella or other suction to remove fuel around filter housing and in center intakes- there are five
4) TAKE NOTICE OF FILTER PLACEMENT IN FILTER CONTAINER- POSITION MUST BE DUPLICATED WHEN REINSTALLING NEW FILTER
5) using fuel filter handle as an assist use screw driver as primary device to lift fuel filter and pull, wiggle and turn to remove. It's in there snuggly.
6) suction all remaining fuel from housing and center post intakes
7) fill filter housing 1/2 way with diesel/additive
8 ) remove gasket covering from fuel filter housing lid
9) lubricate new fuel filter housing lid gasket (507.00 is fine) and install
10) lubricate inner gasket on new filter (top and bottom) and reinstall/slide filter down on center housing post, ensuring that you allign filter in the same position as filter that was removed. Allign the lid torx holes and use a screwdriver or allen wrench in the bleeder screw hole and into the new filter prior to securing the filter tightly to ensure that the filter is alligned properly. The new filter must be alligned properly.
9) press filter until secure in housing bottom- center housing post must be higher than filter.
10) install new blue mickey mouse gasket assembly down into center post indents
11) pour fresh diesel/additive over center housing intakes and filter until almost full- don't fill all the way to the edge- it will still start and run fine not completely full
12) reattach lid with 4 torx screws. Any unneeded fuel will push out the bleeder screw hole
13) screw in bleeder screw with new washer
14) place the 2 fuel hoses back into rubber bracket
 
#17 ·
RIght my 04 right smack in the middle of the engine between the heads and there were two of them though I understand different VINs come with either double or single in 2004 per my local VW dealer all he needs is your VIN and he can tell you which setup you have.

Very easy to do yourself and you can buy the filters at NAPA for $65 instead of the $110 my VW dealer wanted. Took me like 20 minutes that's going very slowly...
 
#9 ·
my '04 V10 Touareg stumbled and died. Hearing that it could be due to fuel starvation... I went a head and followed the steps described above. The explanation is perfect. Save for the fact my rig has two filters, located top middle of the engine, behind the oil filter/cap.

The filters were pretty dirty, but the diesel on either side of the filter is clean, but there was some residue in the bottom of the bowl. I suspect that the seal at the top of the filter may have started to dissolve, because when I wiped it off, black residue came off onto the shop rag. The previous owner claimed to have performed all services intervals... hmm...

I replaced the filters etc -- I can't do the automatic bleed sequence because I do not have the factory test computer. So I attempted to do the key on/off 12+ times method that I read elsewhere on this website. The engine tries to start... no luck.

I even verified there a ton of pressure at the water separator port. So I know that at least a few of the pumps are working upstream.

Before I have it towed to the dealer, are there any suggestions? Perhaps a failed fuel pump somewhere downstream? I hear there are 8 pumps...

Thanks in advance.
 
#11 ·
I may be referring to the wrong bleed screw(s), I checked for diesel at the water separator.

How do I check to see if both housings filled? On my '04 there's one housing holding two filters (top middle of the engine). Note: I filled the housing to the brim before putting the cover on. Now there's pressurized fuel coming out of the water separator up-tube when I remove the screw. Pressure is high that it blew the screw out from my fingers and now I have to go get another one...

I wonder if there's a way to force the "guided function" automatic bleed program to run via VAG-COM? On some VWs I've read that you can turn on/off individual relays (fuel leak relay?) via VAG-COM. The guided function in the OEM test system might simply sequence *something*, that can be done using a VAG-COM...? I digress.
 
#12 ·
definitely a different set-up then mine, so I will watch for other posts.

I was thinking you may have had air pumping through the system causing the no start if the housing wasn't refilled to the brim prior to resealing.

Faulty pump is reasonable or a loose/cracked hose in the fuel system could also hamper startup, although you have pressure in the housing unit
 
#13 ·
Yep, fuel is all the way to the top of the bleed screw, indicated by the arrow in the picture. Is it a good idea to turn on the pumps for a couple of seconds with the bleed screw removed (and attached to a drain hose) to get any bubbles out?
I have a replacement bleed screw coming tomorrow (I lost mine! These are hard to get as it turns out).

 
#14 ·
Here's my experience with changing the Fuel Filter for the first time on my 06 TDI.

I followed the above directions exactly and everything went smoothly except for three things.;) The first problem caused the 2nd and 3rd.

The first problem was the filter would not go down as far as the old one. Even though I lubricated both the top and the bottom inner gasket, it would only go so far being an extremely tight fit. The top inner gasket would come down to the top edge of the housing post, slide onto it about 2mm and go no further. If I pushed down on the filter really hard the housing post itself would go down about 10mm but would come right back up when I stop applying pressure. It feels like the housing post has a very strong spring in it. The filter element has 2 knobs on top opposite the handle and are the same height as the handle. It appears to me that when you reinstall the lid and tighten the 4 torx screws evenly at the same time, the lid pushes the filter element down using the 2 knobs and handle, thus making the filter element go where it needs to. (Side note, I did make careful note of where the old filter was and duplicated it's location.) I put everything back together and started the engine, let it run for 5 minutes and everything was fine.

Any feedback on the filter not going down would be much appreciated.:D

The last two problems were minor. I lost one of the torx screws due to a mildly magnetic torx bit that picked up one of the torx screws by accident and then let it go over the engine.

The third was the the new aluminum washer for the bleed screw disappeared as it was on the Craftsman case in my garage and when I went to get my Craftsman flashlight to look for the missing torx screw in problem 2 I opend the case and the washer went flying. I never found it.:)

Not a biggie.

Again, if anyone can let me know about the filter, please post. Cheers.
 
#18 ·
Here's my experience with changing the Fuel Filter for the first time on my 06 TDI.

I followed the above directions exactly and everything went smoothly except for three things.;) The first problem caused the 2nd and 3rd.

The first problem was the filter would not go down as far as the old one. Even though I lubricated both the top and the bottom inner gasket, it would only go so far being an extremely tight fit. The top inner gasket would come down to the top edge of the housing post, slide onto it about 2mm and go no further. If I pushed down on the filter really hard the housing post itself would go down about 10mm but would come right back up when I stop applying pressure. It feels like the housing post has a very strong spring in it. The filter element has 2 knobs on top opposite the handle and are the same height as the handle. It appears to me that when you reinstall the lid and tighten the 4 torx screws evenly at the same time, the lid pushes the filter element down using the 2 knobs and handle, thus making the filter element go where it needs to. (Side note, I did make careful note of where the old filter was and duplicated it's location.) I put everything back together and started the engine, let it run for 5 minutes and everything was fine.

Any feedback on the filter not going down would be much appreciated.:D

The last two problems were minor. I lost one of the torx screws due to a mildly magnetic torx bit that picked up one of the torx screws by accident and then let it go over the engine.

The third was the the new aluminum washer for the bleed screw disappeared as it was on the Craftsman case in my garage and when I went to get my Craftsman flashlight to look for the missing torx screw in problem 2 I opend the case and the washer went flying. I never found it.:)

Not a biggie.

Again, if anyone can let me know about the filter, please post. Cheers.
OEM filter?
 
#16 ·
Yes that's exactly how it did it too. I twisted the filter while pushing it down but as soon as the top inner seal made contact with the housing post, that's as far as it would go. Also once the filter is in that far, the top of the filter is even with the outer canister and I'm not able to grasp it anymore to twist it in.

What technique did you use to twist it further once in that far?

The old filter had a blackish tinge to it and there was no water at all in the canister or hosing post.

Cheers.
 
#20 ·
Hate to burst you bubble here but you can get a copy of ELSA from here for about $20 and know every proper procedure for about doing anything on your Touareg and not only. Get this and you will know more than the dealer service adviser :D:D:D.

See attachments.
 

Attachments

#23 ·
A few notes, additions and confirmations regarding the removal and installation of this filter on a 2066 V10 TDI, after having just completed this procedure.

1) Depending on how old your filter is, the green handle may be very brittle. Mine snapped after moderate tugging. Make sure to account for any pieces that might be loose if it breaks. I had one small piece fall into the housing can but was able to suction it.

2) You will need a few screwdrivers to assist with upward force, especially if the handle gives way. I used two on opposite sides of the filter with gentle prying force. However, BE CAREFUL with the prying. The filter housing is aluminum and will probably deform easily if you over do it. If you can place a clean shim under each side, you will be better off.

3) The center filter plenum/chamber stays with the housing and is NOT part of the filter. DO NOT PRY in this area.

4) You will probably end up with diesel EVERYWHERE despite your best efforts. Have plenty of shop supplies handy for cleanup and have a bucket or pan ready for the old filter and suctioned diesel.

5) Have clean spare diesel ready to fill the filter housing after installation. DO NOT OVER FILL. If the diesel is at the top of the filter, suction some back out. When you tighten the cover down, it will compress the filter and cause some to spill out the sides.

6)Leave the bleed screw off until all cover screws are tightened down. A small amount of diesel will collect in the cover recess.

Other observations:

I primed the fuel pump twice before starting by using a key on/off method. This probably want necessary since I had diesel bleed out as I was tightening the cover, indicating the filter housing was fill. The vehicle started right up.

Torque values are 10nm for the cover bolts, 5nm for the bleed screw with washer.
 
#24 ·
Any idea on how to get the filter and that center plastic bit back into the housing? That spring requires almost 50lbs of force to compress fully, I can't push it down with one hand and start the screws at the same time. I've had some luck starting one corner, and compressing the other corners in turn, but doing this doesn't seat the seal very well. I found that out the hard way. Any help would be appreciated.
 
#25 ·
The filter is pretty easy to remove and replace by using a slow twisting motion with the handle as you work it around the center post. The problem is likely that the fuel filter is not low enough around the post. Try using a twisting motion to put the filter lower and you should be able to close the lid. This has worked well for me, I've replaced the filter three times without breaking the handle.
 
#27 ·
My V10 is different (two filters) so I'm taking a totally wild guess at this.

I'm assuming the post wasn't supposed to come out. If you remove the spring, can you see how to reattach the post correctly? Does it stay in place without the cover?

I would put the spring under there, set the post over it, then put a little block of wood on top of the post. Then get a pulley puller and hook the two arms over the edge of the filter housing and run the puller screw down onto the piece of wood. Then continue cranking it down until the post seats however it's supposed to and you can twist it into the locked position (if that is indeed how it works). Then back off the pulley puller and hope the post stays in place.

A while back I changed my oil and found that the non-OEM filter I had bought wasn't the same size and didn't have the same parts and notches as the real OEM filter. So with the warning above, I only get OEM gas and oil filters to make sure they fit exactly as promised.

So that's my wild-assed guess. Maybe that'll spark an idea that'll really works.
 
#29 ·
Okay for anyone who reads this in the future. If the center plastic post that I've described comes out of the filter housing and wont stay in, I have a solution. As it turns out, the only thing holding the post down are three plastic catches on the bottom. If one of them breaks off while your trying to get the filer on, it won't stay clipped to the bottom any more. That spring is massive for the job it does. Anyway, if you replace the four screws that hold down the filter cover with longer ones of the same size, (M6 x 1.0) which I found at Lowes, you can get all four started with minimal effort and then use the screws to compress the spring. Worked great, and I won't have to mess with it again.