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2006 Touareg V8
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just purchased a 2006 Touareg V8 200k miles. It has some issues but I am going to try my best to fix them one at a time. I have owned several MKIV TDI's over the years, and have VCDS, so I am somewhat familiar to the VW world.

The first problem I am attempting to tackle is the actuators on the front of the intake that move the flaps inside the intake. The drivers side works as it should, vacuum diaphragm is good, and the arm moves freely without hesitation. The passenger side has a broken connecting link / rod and was stuck fairly hard. I sprayed some Sea Foam Dep Creep around the arm several times throughout the day and just tried moving it tonight and it moves, but is sticky and difficult. I plan on working it back and forth while applying more Deep Creep tomorrow to see if it loosens up. I have already ordered the connecting link and await its arrival.

There is also a misfire cylinder 4 code in VCDS (along with many others). On cylinder 4 there is a red top coil while all the others are black. I am guessing the red coil is a poor quality aftermarket replacement that has given problems before and is out now.

My plans for tomorrow are to:
1. Run a healthy dose of BMW 82140428376 fuel injection cleaner through a pressurized fuel injection cleaner.
2. Run the engine for the recommended time with a treatment of BG Engine Performance Restorer (EPR). (basically an engine flush)
3. Change the oil and filter with a Mahle oil filter and Mobil 1 5w30
4. Install 8 new Denso iridium plugs and run a compression check while doing so.
5. Install a new Bosch ignition coil on cylinder 4 (plan on the other 7 later, but got to see where this goes first)
6. Install 2 Mahle air filters.

The battery is shot, and from what I have read I will continue to get trouble codes until it is replaced. I am trying not to spend any more money on this than I have to until I know the engine is running well. Once I get to that point, I will install a new H9 battery. I would post a scan from VCDS but from what I have read it would be useless with the bad battery as half the codes will be from inadequate voltage issues and many of these could resolve themselves with a good new battery.

If anyone has any tips, advice, or suggestions please let me know. I have really enjoyed the TDI forums over the years as I started out knowing nothing and now I am knowledgeable enough to help others. I hope I can do the same here.
 

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2006 V8 Touareg AIR, nav, hid
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Your plan sounds good. You will want a good battery in there, sooner rather than later.

If you can find a smaller healthy battery of around 800CCA, it would be better to test with that, rather than testing with a bad H9 battery. If you get it running enough to put it on the street, then put in the correct H9 battery. On cold weather days or on days with a lot of short trips, you don't want an undersized battery in there. It will just give you trouble.
 

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2006 Touareg V8
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I had some other car repairs come up and have not started this yet. I did some more research on here and decided to completely remove the intake and clean the intake flaps. I ordered the intake gasket this morning and it should be in tomorrow. One reason I decided to remove the intake for cleaning was something I read about check valves and problems with brief cold start tapping / knocking.

Am I correct to believe:
1. These check valves are accessible once the intake is removed ?
2. That they can be cleaned instead of replacing?
 

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2006 Touareg V8
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Any advice on the check valves?
I am not sure if they can just be cleaned or have to be replaced.
Also after removing the intake, are they located under the next cover?
 

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I don't remember any air check valves internal to the engine. As far as I know, the control system that moves the flaps is all mounted external on the engine.

There are a few oil check valves located inside the engine, but we are talking about the air intake system and not the oil system.

The only air flap problem internal I can remember is that a very few people have had the actual flap inside the engine get damaged. This appears to be a very rare isolated problem.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I was referring to the oil check valves under the intake.

What I have accomplished so far:
1. Removed intake flaps shaft "bushings" cleaned lubed and reinstalled very smooth now.
2. Installed two new intake flap control linkage rods (aluminum version)
3. Ran the pressurized BMW fuel injection cleaner through for 20 minutes
4. Flushed motor with BG products EPR engine flush
5. Changed engine oil with Mobil 1 5w30 and Mahle oil filter.
6. Installed 2 new Mahle air filters
7. Removed cleaned and reinstalled both MAF sensors
8. Ran compression test with following results:
cylinder compression
1 170psi
2 172psi
3 165psi
4 162psi
5 162psi
6 165psi
7 167psi
8 175psi
9. Installed 8 new Denso iridium spark plugs (checked gap at .040")
10. Installed 1 new ignition coil on cyl 4 (misfire cylinder 4 code present at start)
11. Replaced cracked hard plastic line on passenger side of engine bay (vacuum I think)
12. Removed drivers front door lock module and replaced micro switch
13. Replaced sunroof motor
14. Installed new H8 battery
15. Removed a penny and a dime, had jammed the power seat mechanism on pass side
16. Replaced broken Drivers door interior pull handle.
17. Vacuumed all the leaves from the under hood fuse/relay area.
18. Installed 2 new hood lift supports


I cleared all the codes with VCDS and took it for the first drive after all the work.

I am still getting 28 codes. I want to concentrate on the major ones first.

I am still getting a misfire cylinder 4 code even with the new coil pack and spark plug.
I plan on swapping injectors between 4 and 3 next to see if the misfire moves. If it doesn't I would have to think it is a wiring or ground issue.

I also have several codes for the bank 1 sensor 2 Heated O2 sensor. I have a new Bosch O2 sensor ordered and it will arrive in the morning.

I hope (as I have already ordered the part) this is the passenger (right) side O2 sensor after the cat.

The engine runs great but the misfire has me concerned. You cant "feel" it but the code keeps coming up.

Of the 28 codes scanned with VCDS many are for modules detecting "voltage below threshold". I hoped a new battery would clear these up but it did not. Alternator is charging at 13.9 volts.

Any input, ideas or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I am not sure what the brief cold start rattle that I had was being caused by, but after all the work above and also a B1 S2 O2 sensor and a new PCV valve it is no longer there. Even after sitting outside for 3 days at 24 degrees F.
 
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