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Ha anyone removed the cylinder heads on these engines without dropping the engine?

Looks like my intake camshaft jump a few links after I replaced the tensioner a pads, should have replaced the tensioner. Now I may have to replace a bunch of bent valves, the whole passenger bank is misfiring and the CPS says it's off.


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2004 Touareg V8, 2005 VW Touareg V8, 1994 Audi V8 Quattro
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Ha anyone removed the cylinder heads on these engines without dropping the engine?

Looks like my intake camshaft jump a few links after I replaced the tensioner a pads, should have replaced the tensioner. Now I may have to replace a bunch of bent valves, the whole passenger bank is misfiring and the CPS says it's off.


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Did you ever get an answer? I broke what was supposedly a new timing belt so I also have some bent valves on a 2005 V8. Is it possible to remove a head without pulling the engine?
 

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Someone mentioned it can be done, and I am in the same situation, timing belt break, all valves bent. I did not see how they were able to remove the heads in situ, but they said it was possible. I would sure like to know how...
 

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Someone mentioned it can be done, and I am in the same situation, timing belt break, all valves bent. I did not see how they were able to remove the heads in situ, but they said it was possible. I would sure like to know how...
I will take lots of pictures. I did replace a head from an 1994 Audi V8 Quattro without removing the engine. It's the same engine but ???? so I am going to try. If I can't do it I'll at least have pictures of why. Not going to happen soon but it will happen this summer as I love the vehicle just not enough to pay someone else to do a valve job for many thousands of dollars. Maybe someone will post a how to before I get around to it.
 

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I will take lots of pictures. I did replace a head from an 1994 Audi V8 Quattro without removing the engine. It's the same engine but ???? so I am going to try. If I can't do it I'll at least have pictures of why. Not going to happen soon but it will happen this summer as I love the vehicle just not enough to pay someone else to do a valve job for many thousands of dollars. Maybe someone will post a how to before I get around to it.
bump

Well? How did it turn out?

I have 2005 V8 I bought for almost nothing. Oil pressure indicates the big-end of the engine is in decent condition. Smoke on startup and rough idle (plus chain whine) indicate the tensioners need to be repaired. Consequently with the cams out I was considering a head rebuild but was looking at the space and wondering if it can done in-situ.

I have worked on other vehicles with similarly close space and was able to remove the heads by loosening the motor mounts and raising the engine a bit. In this case there is he driveline to consider in that process.
 

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I had an 06 v8 that broke the timing belt. I pulled the drivers side head to inspect the damage. It was super easy, like so easy I did not even have to get under the car. I even got to the exhaust flange bolts from above. I would guess the pass side would be similar.
 

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I had an 06 v8 that broke the timing belt. I pulled the drivers side head to inspect the damage. It was super easy, like so easy I did not even have to get under the car. I even got to the exhaust flange bolts from above. I would guess the pass side would be similar.
Thanks. I guess I'll take all the covers off the engine and have a look around.
 

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2004 4.2L Touareg AXQ air suspension
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Thanks. I guess I'll take all the covers off the engine and have a look around.
HI Injuhneer
Did you succeed in getting the head out without dropping the engine?

I have a 2004 AXQ, broke the timing chain and needed to replace the right head. Mechanic did replace the head without dropping the engine, so I believe it is possible to do it.
 

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HI Injuhneer
Did you succeed in getting the head out without dropping the engine?

I have a 2004 AXQ, broke the timing chain and needed to replace the right head. Mechanic did replace the head without dropping the engine, so I believe it is possible to do it.
I haven't started. I did get all the parts needed for the work. Also removed the covers from the engine and bay. It does look like it will come out. I will update this thread (or start a new topic for AXQ head rebuild) once I get started.

I am assuming that at the mileage of the engine that there will be valve work as well so I am also doing some research on parts alternatives for the DIY crowd.

Also there is another thread (subject:T1 4.2 V8 No compression cyl 5/6/7 Head removal) where a CT member removed the heads of an AXQ in-situ.
 

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It has been two months since my last post. With the holiday season and my daughter's wedding I have only just started the process of removing the heads.

A compression check on the cylinders read 205-210 psi on 1,3,4,5,6,8. Cylinders 2 and 7 showed 150. Next a scope inside the sparkplug holes will get a look at the bores. I suspect bent or burned valves but we'll soon see.

I must say the intake manifold wasn't tough to remove.

Keep in mind however that one of the traits of "power unit" engineering and assembly is the attachment of peripheral components to the engine. Mind the small lines, brackets, etc as you take the manifold off. And watch for the plastic assembly guides that will surely have become brittle. I am thinking I'll make some replacements of aluminum or brass when the engine goes back together.
 

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A scope down the spark plug hole of each cylinder provided a view inside. The pistons all look pretty good with minimal carbon and no scoring of the cylinder walls. The #2 and #7 pistons however have minor witness marks. There has been minor valve contact.

To borrow a phrase then its "Off with his head(s)!".
 
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I will. The last few weeks have kept me away from this job. I will be getting back to it tomorrow.
 

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So far I have it down to the head on one side. Cover, cams and other bits have been removed.

242730


Next step is to loosen the exhaust. The area around it too close to reach around. The simplest approach is to pull the wheel well liner to gain access to the exhaust manifold. The liner looks simple to remove.
 
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Give the restricted space there is no means to reach the manifold bolts without cutting a hole through the body next to the manifold. Removing the bolts at the exhaust manifold flange separates the exhaust and allows the head to be removed with the exhaust manifold attached. It is a bit fiddly to lift the head out with the manifold attached but it is possible.

The manifold is a Boysen made series of weldments rather than a cast or stamped one-piece unit. That means it is heavy making the assembly (head and exhaust) a bit heavy and unwieldy to lift out. So be careful not to damage any head gasket surfaces during extraction.
 
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As I prep to service the valves it occurred to me that in days of yore I used egg cartons to put the retainers, etc, from the valve train. With a 40 valve engine it will require 4 egg cartons. (y)
 

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Some months later I am back around to this task.

Having taken off the RH head I am now on to the LH head.

I have to ask: What tool are folks using to get the Torx screws out of the head (cam cover and cam bearings)? These screw heads are very soft and strip easily. I have tried several Torx tools and have been cleaning out the debris in the socket on each screw. Still they strip. One after another.

This is one of those, "Whose idea was this?" moments.

I will replace all of them with standard hex head or hex cap screws.
 

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Welcome back! This has been a long project in the works.
Totally agree with you when it comes to the 'soft' screws. I personally remember striping out a couple of mine and also broke one scew while removing the cover (I was replacing cam chain tensioner guides). I must have tried spaying them down with DW40 left them to sit overnight, a couple came out after this. For the badly striped ones I tapped in a larger size Torx bit. For one striped bolt i had to chisel in a groove then use a flat head screwdriver to get it out.

Needless to say I had to replace most of them.
PS. Be warned oil leaks are fairly common after getting the covers back on.
 

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Indeed. I have had a few other projects that asserted themselves in the meantime.

I understand the TTY screws but these are ridiculous.

Back to the Egg.
 

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I managed to get all the screws freed. One would not move (T30, then T35, then T40, then chisel, then Vise Grips). I even used a bolt extractor driven down over the head of the screw. No luck.

Instead I drilled it out. I just ordered some replacement screws.

Cam cover is in the ultrasonic bath getting a de-crud treatment.
 
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