[d1rr0n]

So I replaced the intake manifold actuator arms with Gruven parts thanks to suggestions in my other thread. They work great, but after a week of driving it the actuators are no longer being moved into the correct position at idle. They still move freely, and if I manually move the bottom one then they both kick in.

I'm pretty sure I have a vacuum leak (the lines look horrible), and I'm hoping the bottom vacuum pot doesn't need replacing.

Should I just use Autozone or NAPA vacuum hoses or get the VW specifically shaped ones? Also if I do need a new vacuum pod, where can I find one? I assume the one from VW only comes in $400 a kit?

I read about using a bicycle tube patch as a quick fix if the pod is the issue. Has anyone bought the repair kit in the past for other issies and have an extra vacuum pod lying around that they'd be interested in selling? Lol

 

[Perry01]

It could be the solenoid valve or the diaphragm. I had to replace a soledoid on one side and a diaphragm on the other to get everything working normal. I even bought new vacuum hose from Napa.

The diaphragms should remain deflated for quite a while after shutdown.

Are you saying that the diaphragms do not fully deflate (collapse)? If so, you may just need vacuum hoses replaced. That would be the easy fix. You can test by putting your finger over the hose before the solenoid valve then test before the diaphragm.

Here is a thread I started a couple years ago adressing a similar issue:

http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f95/problem-with-intake-manifold-tuning-52366.html

Good luck.
.

 

[d1rr0n]

So while I do need new vacuum lines I removed the lower vacuum pod and discovered a leak (which also explains why it was collapsing asymmetrically). I need a new vacuum pod. I do not want to spend $404 at VW. I coated the area and basically that entire side in high temp RTV silicone as a (hopefully) temporary solution. I should've done the bike patch, but oh well -- too late now.

Are there any other options than dropping an obscene amount of money a little piece of metal and rubber? I'm going to email Gruven Parts about maybe manufacturing a replacement -- I think plenty of people would buy them!

Any thoughts? I may try a recycler, but I fear that will land back where I am now in 6 months.

 

[d1rr0n]

I just emailed Gruven Parts about maybe manufacturing a replacement. I even offered to wear a Gruven Parts t-shirt every day for a month -- and design it myself in AutoCAD. Lol I'm desperate.

 

[d1rr0n]

Paul at Gruven Parts is an amazing dude. He referred me to the Land Rover part ETC-7150. It looks to be identical, and it's $85! I'm going to order this Land Rover part, and I'll let you guys know how it works out. If it works well, NO MORE $404 BS! Lol

Here's the part so you can see it(Though I'm buying from a cheaper site): Cruise Control Actuator (Genuine Part # ETC7150) - Land Rover switches/control unit/actuators from Atlantic British

 

[TheSkinnyViking]

Vacuum hoses and valve kit [the black and white valve] are available as a kit. It contains all you need to replace the hoses and the valve nearby the pods. The longer hoses going to the back of the engine bay is not part of the kit. part number 077 133 331 D, about EUR 34 from a decent dealer.

 

[volkswagendude]

d1rr0n, I vote all the above the best info of the month, perhaps even the year! Thank you!

Yet an other strike against some in the extended warranty camp .

How ironic that it's a Land Rover cross reference part.

 

[Perry01]

The solenoid valves (one for each side) control the vacuum, they determine when the diaphragms (vacuum pods) inflate or deflate depending on RPM and load, then open and shut your intake actuator flaps. Buying a solenoid valve kit with hoses will not fix the problem of your leaking diaphragm. You need to bite the bullet and buy a new diaphragm. They are not cheap but putting a bicycle tube patch probably won't work. These diaphragms are next to your cylinder head and get very hot and they inflate and deflate rapidly.
.

 

[d1rr0n]

@TheSkinnyViking: Thanks for the info! For now I just used Gates 3.2mm and 4.8mm fuel line. VW wanted like $100 for the kit, fuel line seemed like a better (cheaper) alternative.

@Perry01: The bicycle patch idea was something I read elsewhere on the forums that someone else had tried -- and supposedly it worked. I coated that side of my pod with high temp RTV, I've driven about 100 miles since then and so far it's still holding up (As a temporary solution, of course).

I realize that my issue is the pod, as stated earlier in the thread, although it needed vacuum lines as well (even though they were holding vacuum they were shot). Someone linked me to the vacuum kit because apparently from VW the lines come with the valves in a kit. Anyway I sprang for NAPA fuel line instead, much cheaper and works just as well -- though I haven't done the ones that run to the back yet.

@Volkswagondude: Thanks! Lol I was pretty stoked when he emailed me that little suggestion. The people on this site have been very helpful to me, so I like to spread good info when I can. I'll let you guys know how that Land Rover part works out once I get it in about a week or so. Until then I'm monitoring my silicone fix.

EDIT: I should also note that Paul from GruvenParts did imply that if the Land Rover part is incompatible, which we both doubt since it appears to be identical and others have claimed success with it, that he would be willing to manufacture that part.

 

[dvmis]

It could be the solenoid valve or the diaphragm. I had to replace a soledoid on one side and a diaphragm on the other to get everything working normal. I even bought new vacuum hose from Napa.

The diaphragms should remain deflated for quite a while after shutdown.

Are you saying that the diaphragms do not fully deflate (collapse)? If so, you may just need vacuum hoses replaced. That would be the easy fix. You can test by putting your finger over the hose before the solenoid valve then test before the diaphragm.

Here is a thread I started a couple years ago adressing a similar issue:

http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f95/problem-with-intake-manifold-tuning-52366.html

Good luck.
.

I looked at the file above which states: "With engine off, the actuators should look like this. Both levers held against stops by springs...vacuum pods inflated. Should go to this immediately (not slowly) when engine is switched off. If not, they are seized or too sluggish."

My one does not go immediatelly to start position when engine is turned off as vacuum is still present in the engine - if I check 10 min later they are retracted. Flaps move freelry if I try by hand - can anyone alse confirm this scenario on their V8?

 

[volkswagendude]

Mine don't retract immediately after engine shut down either. I never really timed it, but off the top of my head and instinct, it's at least 5 min after engine shutdown.

 

[Perry01]

Mine don't retract immediately after engine shut down either. I never really timed it, but off the top of my head and instinct, it's at least 5 min after engine shutdown.

+1

 

[dvmis]

Thanks guys - makes sense as vacuum is still present. When engine starts it closes immediately. Its scary how much vacuum there it is with 8 cylinders.

 

[Treetz]

I looked at the file above which states: "With engine off, the actuators should look like this. Both levers held against stops by springs...vacuum pods inflated. Should go to this immediately (not slowly) when engine is switched off. If not, they are seized or too sluggish."

My one does not go immediatelly to start position when engine is turned off as vacuum is still present in the engine - if I check 10 min later they are retracted. Flaps move freelry if I try by hand - can anyone alse confirm this scenario on their V8?

Mine retract immediately upon startup and stay retracted after turning the engine off. I checked this shortly after performing the whole cleaning routine for those flap pivots and replacing the plastic arms with the gruven metal arms. I will take a look to see how long they stay retracted for before losing vacuum and filling back out.

 

[California-T-regin]

It may not be the flap shaft or actuator if the actuator stays retracted on shut down. If the boots are still sucked in when the engine is off pull the vacuum line at the actuator. If the actuators extend swiftly it is the solenoid valve.

The solenoid valves have two positions. In one position they route vacuum to the actuators. In the other position the vacuum line to the actuator is vented and should therefore immediately retract. In this position the input port to the valve is plugged so only the vacuum left in the actuators is dumped.

I just ordered two solenoids because this is what I have going on.

If they do not immediately extend on shut down the solenoid failed in the position which feeds vacuum from one port to the other. If it does not swiftly extend on shut down then it also is not changing modes fast enough to adapt to engine RPM and you are loosing power and efficiency.

 

[California-T-regin]

It seems I was wrong.. The write up says they should retract ASAP on shut down but that must just be Audis?

 

[Treetz]

Upon shutdown mine stay fully contracted for a few minutes and then SNAP back to the open position quickly upon vacuum release.

 

[d1rr0n]

Hey guys, I finally got that Range Rover part ECT7150 to replace my Touareg's vacuum pod (or w/e it's called). Works great! I picked it up for $15, used, on Ebay. Can't beat that price for one in good condition!

 

[tai101]

Hey guys, I finally got that Range Rover part ECT7150 to replace my Touareg's vacuum pod (or w/e it's called). Works great! I picked it up for $15, used, on Ebay. Can't beat that price for one in good condition!

NICE find! this is the rubber bowl looking thing right?

 

[Odessa]

So a couple of weeks ago i discovered my lower right pod (while facing the engine bay) had a small 3mm puncture and upon closer inspection i could see the rubber in general was getting quit old.

I decided to replace both pods with the Land Rover ones which were talked about earlier in this thread. On inspection they are almost identical to the VW / Audi ones bar the little angled metal ball joint part which you will note in the pic below.

Lucky i did decide to replace them as i also found quit a big 12mm or so tear in the crease of the same pod which was hidden out of sight on the far side.

Hardest part of the job nothing really except the fact you might drop the screw nut into the engine on the right side pod. Bit fiddly that one.

Some pics here for others who may contemplate this route in the future