All I can tell you is the timing chain is at the rear of the engine and nigh on impossible to access unless you have tiny hands or you remove the engine.

 

Looking for this info too. I tried to locate the tensioner to check/reprime it on the V6 (2004 - AZZ engine). No luck so far :-(
I probably have to remove some stuff before getting to it.
I came across this aftermarket version while looking up info on the internet:

MCT- VR6 MANUAL CAM CHAIN TENSIONER

http://vr6parts.com/onlinestore/ind...olkswagen/vr6/24-valve/cylinder-head-valvetrain/mct-manual-chain-tensioner.html

Not sure if this is a viable solution to the oil pressure/rattle issue/rolling marbles issue !!

 

from the vr6parts website:

The Schimmel Performance MCT (Manual Chain Tensioner) is designed to replace the oem hydraulic cam chain tensioner. A must for high performance vr6 engines. Hydraulic tensioners have a tendency to put too much tension on the chain guide under high rpm/high oil pressure conditions, resulting in loss of power and premature wear of the cam chain guides. The key is the cam chain should only have the slack taken out, not actually have tension on it. Perfect adjustment would be zero pressure/no play. During lower engine operations such as gear shifts and startups the oem hydraulic tensioner does not provide enough pressure to hold chain and guide rail in proper position especially with high lift cams and hd valve springs. Hydraulic tensioners are also prone to fail at anytime in racing conditions causing bent valves or more severe engine damaged. Installing the MCT has no down sides, and a positive of being easier on the cam chain and guides. Not relining on oil pressure to hold chain with no slack, and has zero possibility of catastrophic failure. Timing chain do not stretch like a timing belt. They increase in length that this is due to wear at the pivoting pins and bushes, not from actual stretching of the metal. OEM hydraulic tensioners will always be applying pressure to the cam chain guides - always. It's always pushing in biased on oil pressure, and the chain, trying to "get one more click" on cam sprocket, and keep the chain tight. That constant pressure robs HP, creates heat and is definitely a big factor in chain and guide wear. The MCT keeps engine in time with less chain, sprockets and guide wear by not holding tension on chain. In racing applications you do not want oil pressure to control the mechanical timing of the engine at anytime. The MCT is made from 304 Stainless steel for a lifetime of use. It includes ARP 12 point SS jamb nut and alum sealing washer. Fits all 12v and 24v vr6 engines Instructions for installing the MCT ,Loosen and take off the jam nut. Spin piston in the all the way out position. Install the MCT in the timing cover. Screw in the piston finger tight and install jamb nut. Start the motor, back the MCT out until you hear a distinctive rattle from the cam chain/ guide. Tighten the MCT JUST until the rattle goes away. Out a little, hear the rattle, in a little rattle goes away… DO NOT give it another ¼ turn,,,,, YOUR DONE ADJUSTING. Hold the MCT main shaft in place, and tighten the jam nut locking the MCT in place

 

I finally got to the tensioner. I removed the air duct and was able to locate it. I checked if the tensioner was torqued correctly using a torque wrench. I then removed it. I cleaned it and I was able to empty it completely. It gave in easy, oil was a bit dirty. I did an oil change recently (less than 2000km). I soaked it in oil and pressed it several times untill it was impossible to retract it anymore. I put it back, torqued it to spec (40nm) and surpriiise the rolling marbles noise is almost gone. There is a very faint noise sometimes but nothing compared to how it was before. Some pics of the operation coming later


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