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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok guys.... Hard work is done and need some opinions. I got my 2004 V10 Touareg off the ground and the motor is all exposed. I need to fix both tandem pumps as they are both leaking. Both pumps still are functioning, should I only replace the gasket or should I just replace pump????
Also I was looking to delete the EGR system to keep the carbon build up in the intake.... Anybody here have it done and believe it was worth it???
I plan on changing few gaskets that are seeping out oil, Both valve covers seem to be leaking, but it is impossible to find valve cover gaskets without purchasing the valve cover that goes with it. Anybody have any insight???
Is there anything that I should also look into replacing as I have the motor out of the vehicle????

Thanks with pics to come.
 

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MY21 Wolfsburg V6 Moonlight Blue
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all the best.
how about the o2 sensors?
Put blanking plates in to prevent egr soot build up, simple. I would do a service of the intake manifold and egr valves...get all that gunk out and blank it then!
service, replace starter motor/generator/ac compressor especially that rubber grommet thingy.

also, check exhaust manifold for cracks, leaks, this is common.
 

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Recondition the turbos.

Hope you locked the air suspension first if the wheels are danglers!
 

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Ok guys.... Hard work is done and need some opinions. I got my 2004 V10 Touareg off the ground and the motor is all exposed. I need to fix both tandem pumps as they are both leaking. Both pumps still are functioning, should I only replace the gasket or should I just replace pump????
Also I was looking to delete the EGR system to keep the carbon build up in the intake.... Anybody here have it done and believe it was worth it???
I plan on changing few gaskets that are seeping out oil, Both valve covers seem to be leaking, but it is impossible to find valve cover gaskets without purchasing the valve cover that goes with it. Anybody have any insight???
Is there anything that I should also look into replacing as I have the motor out of the vehicle????

Thanks with pics to come.

Well that question depends on how long you plan to keep it barring any major issues.
No use spending a heap of dollars then flogging it off.
Let assume you are going to keep it and get the use of any work you do to it.
Some of the answers depend on the current mileage but in reality it is a 13 year old car so a refresh is probably needed.
V10 engines can be a bit of a money pit so you need to spend wise money in the right places as you don't want to pull the engine again in the near future because you scrimped on the right things to do.


- Before you do any of the below items lift your leaking tappet covers and inspect your cams for lobe wear.
- Yes a turbo refresh unless they have done less than 100k miles
- EGR delete is good look how clean my inlets are after 25,000kms after EGR delete.
- Alternator and aircon compressor freewheel clutch and coupling replacement (its the freewheel clutch that fails and stuffs the coupling)
- Check exhaust manifolds for leaks and repair if needed. (permanent proper repair is a bit of specialised work)
-Rebuild both pumps with kits available from Europe and save $1000. the kits also come with new gaskets for mounting pumps to the head. Coat the steel gaskets with hylomar blue or similar product before fitting.
- Check all the engine wiring harness with a multi meter and replace all the heat damaged split conduit.
- check glow plugs with multi meter.
- probably replace oil cooler gaskets.
- Reseal the tappet covers with a bead of 3bond added to all sharp corners were the cover fits if you know what I mean.
- Not sure about oxygen sensors but not a bad idea.
- Possibly coolant pump as when they leak they put coolant into the sump.


When you do get it back on the road fill it with a 5w40 or 10w 40 full synthetic oil that has a full package of zinc(ZDDP) about 1300-1500 ppm.




regards
Drag
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Appreciate all opinions. Thanks Drag for laying out simple to read. I must say that my 2004 "T1" has about 80,000 miles on it. It had a oil leak since I had it, and didn't bother looking into the problem as it was minor (plus you know how tight everything is packed inside the engine bay).


The spilling of about a quarter tank of fuel onto the freeway at night was what made me take out the motor. Then realized how much was missing on the fuel gauge. Got out, and fuel was heavily dripping out from underneath. I narrowed it down that the fuel was coming from the back side of motor, but could not see exactly where. So with the huge fuel leak and drippy oil, I decide to pull the motor for the first time and fix it. I got a good friend with a shop and hoists. We have the motor out and found both leaky tandem pumps, leaky valve covers, and some hoses that seem to be worn a mushrooming from the hose clamps.


Can somebody tell me which tandem pump (right/left) does what. I seem to hear that only one of them is for fuel only, and other is fuel and vacuum?
Anybody know where I can get only the valve cover gaskets, as the Stealership wants to sell me the gasket with the valve covers?
Anybody stock turbo upgrade worth doing as I am going to send both turbos out to be refreshed?
 

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Appreciate all opinions. Thanks Drag for laying out simple to read. I must say that my 2004 "T1" has about 80,000 miles on it. It had a oil leak since I had it, and didn't bother looking into the problem as it was minor (plus you know how tight everything is packed inside the engine bay).


The spilling of about a quarter tank of fuel onto the freeway at night was what made me take out the motor. Then realized how much was missing on the fuel gauge. Got out, and fuel was heavily dripping out from underneath. I narrowed it down that the fuel was coming from the back side of motor, but could not see exactly where. So with the huge fuel leak and drippy oil, I decide to pull the motor for the first time and fix it. I got a good friend with a shop and hoists. We have the motor out and found both leaky tandem pumps, leaky valve covers, and some hoses that seem to be worn a mushrooming from the hose clamps.


Can somebody tell me which tandem pump (right/left) does what. I seem to hear that only one of them is for fuel only, and other is fuel and vacuum? RHS is a combination vacuum/fuel pump with the vacuum section being closest to the cylinder head. LHS is a fuel pump only
Anybody know where I can get only the valve cover gaskets, as the Stealership wants to sell me the gasket with the valve covers? The valve cover gaskets are integral with the valve covers and cannot be seperated
Anybody stock turbo upgrade worth doing as I am going to send both turbos out to be refreshed? Save your money and just send turbo's to a reputable shop to inspect and report and only a std rebuild do not try to upgrade it has been the graveyard of all that have tried before.

Regards
Drag
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Anybody rebuild their tandem pump with a rebuild kit. This is the kit that I found and want to know if anybody has used them. Also it says that I need 2 kits to rebuild the other fuel pump on driver side.


Is the fuel pump on the driver the same seal kit or is it different?
 

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Anybody rebuild their tandem pump with a rebuild kit. This is the kit that I found and want to know if anybody has used them. Also it says that I need 2 kits to rebuild the other fuel pump on driver side.


Is the fuel pump on the driver the same seal kit or is it different?

I have used kits to rebuild both pumps the kits are different
The one below is for the LHS fuel only pump.
The one you have linked is for the RHS fuel/vacuum pump.


If you are careful they are a far cheaper option to buying new pumps if you are on a budget which with V10 engine you need to be.


STAR 60.220 Reparatursatz Vakuumpumpen Tandem 07Z127025F=E | eBay?




Regards
Drag
 

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I see that you are just a couple hours down the road from me, I have done everything that you are wondering about in the last year.
For starters,

1. Check your cam lobes for wear. My ride had about 80K more miles than yours when I tore it down, but the cams were significantly worn.

2. Check your alternator bearings - pretty much remove the alternator and check for any end play. The bearing was shot in mine opposite of the coupling end. Replace the coupling while you have the alternator out.

3. Don't waste your money on upgraded turbos. I went that route, wasted $3000 on them, and had to pull the engine 4000 miles later to put stock turbos back in.

4. Like Drag and others have said, check the wiring harness for any damage, check all cooling lines for corrosion/leaks, rebuild or replace the Fuel Pumps. The valve cover gaskets don't need to be replaced, just use a good RTV or equivalent when you put them back on. Mine doesn't leak a drop (knock on wood) and they were leaking pretty good before repair. Replace the O2 Sensors (There are tuners out there that can make them obsolete if you don't want to spend the money on new ones), Clean the Intake Manifolds and make some EGR blanking plates.

5. Replace any and all O-rings/gaskets/hoses, etc., that look even remotely questionable. It is a lot cheaper and easier to do it once.

If you end up doing cams, make sure you purchase new bolts - do not reuse them. I'd be happy to answer any questions you may have, send me a pm if you'd like and I'll give you my phone #. There are a lot of threads on here of members that have done what you are doing now. Take a little bit of time and do some research, you will most likely find the answers to most of your questions.

Ryan
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I don't hear too much about the glow plugs going bad in the Touareg, should I replace them as I have the motor out. I did not have any fault codes, and I do live in Las Vegas were the temperature does not get extremely cold.






Any input is appreciate
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Send me a PM.

I see that you are just a couple hours down the road from me, I have done everything that you are wondering about in the last year.
For starters,

1. Check your cam lobes for wear. My ride had about 80K more miles than yours when I tore it down, but the cams were significantly worn.

2. Check your alternator bearings - pretty much remove the alternator and check for any end play. The bearing was shot in mine opposite of the coupling end. Replace the coupling while you have the alternator out.

3. Don't waste your money on upgraded turbos. I went that route, wasted $3000 on them, and had to pull the engine 4000 miles later to put stock turbos back in.

4. Like Drag and others have said, check the wiring harness for any damage, check all cooling lines for corrosion/leaks, rebuild or replace the Fuel Pumps. The valve cover gaskets don't need to be replaced, just use a good RTV or equivalent when you put them back on. Mine doesn't leak a drop (knock on wood) and they were leaking pretty good before repair. Replace the O2 Sensors (There are tuners out there that can make them obsolete if you don't want to spend the money on new ones), Clean the Intake Manifolds and make some EGR blanking plates.

5. Replace any and all O-rings/gaskets/hoses, etc., that look even remotely questionable. It is a lot cheaper and easier to do it once.

If you end up doing cams, make sure you purchase new bolts - do not reuse them. I'd be happy to answer any questions you may have, send me a pm if you'd like and I'll give you my phone #. There are a lot of threads on here of members that have done what you are doing now. Take a little bit of time and do some research, you will most likely find the answers to most of your questions.

Ryan

Can you me a PM, as I cannot send one until I posted 15 messages on the website. I greatly appreciate it if we could talk as we are only few hours away from each other.


Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Cant seem to get the turbos free. I have removed 3 nuts (backside) from the catalytic converter, a 12 point bolt and (2) double thread end bolt. 2 allen bolts from compressor tube, 2 allen bolts from intercooler tube, loosened the clamp to on the header. The turbo wiggles but doesn't want to come loose. I do have the oil feed line connected and the wire harness connected, but I do not feel these are restricting the removal, and will remove these as I get the turbo off the engine block.

What else am I missing?

Thanks
 
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