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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

Being new to modern cars I took up the challenge and purchased a 2004 V10 Touareg and hgad it for about 12 days now. The day i picked it up the main battery was flat but by using the key it started first go. I test drove it a fortnight beforehand which was alright at the time.

The previous owner seemed to know nothing about keyless entry or keyless start. always used the key. He had it at the local VW dealer and an independant auto electrian for weeks to try and fix the clock resetting and the fuel averages resetting when starting the car. VW replaced the alternator which did not seem to fix the problem.

Since obtaining the car i charged up the main battery under the seat but it was beyond holding any charge. 2 days on a 10 amp charger and a load test brought it down past 5 volts. Replaced the battery with a new one and off i went. i do a fair bit of diring during the day and leaving around 7am and getting home 10pm with intermittent trips during the day started first time every time. Doing research and reading many things over batteries and drain i did upgrade the cd navigation from firmware 0629 to 0635

I came home early on a friday around 4pm and didnt work saturday. About 2pm saturday Tried to start the car keyless and all the electronics died as it cranked over. The battery was flat again. Swapped the battery with a smaller one i had from antoher car and put the big one on charge... which load tested fine on sunday morning.

The temporary battery was flat sunday morning. i then replaced the battery again with another full one and tested the vehicle according to the tsb on battery drain.

I bought the VCDS but still awaiting to obtain schematics for this vehicle

I checked every fuse 3 times on both sides of the dash and under the bonnet. I left an inline ammeter between the battery and notcsed the current being 2.5-2.9 Amps and occasionaly it would drop to about 0.1a for half a second but then back again to 2.5-2.9..for 3-10 second intervals.

I observed some fuses showing current on and off... notably Parking sensors, Tyre Pressure monitor system, Radio and a few others.

I then also heard a clicking noise of a relay every time this happened.

Finding the offending control box I found a box labelled "Bordnetzsteuergerat" 7L6 937 049 L which seemed to click and all these things turn on and off repeatedly. Unlocking the doors and ignition and the clicking stops.

First time with the VCDS VAG-COM software the only error I found on this control module was a 00907.... battery low which I would expect with the number of battery charges and swaps I did over the weekend

Watching the inputs that I could see on the VCDS I saw nothing unusual. I learnt I had heated mirrors that was on but that’s all!

The software won’t show you what the box is doing when the ignition is off so I couldn’t monitor the inputs.

Any ideas and what else this module controls or what it listens to when sleeping?

Or something else to look for?
 

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How about pulling one fuse at a time while watching your inline meter. Also turn heated mirrors off (10 oclock or 2 oclock)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
As much as it says in the instructions not to ..... At the end i did end up pulling each fuse 1 at a time, and the worst i did was set off the alarm and had to start the procedure again. :p

I noticed when i did pull fuses like the Parking sensor, radio and TMPS the current did drop when the module mentioned above had its relay go into the on position but about the best i got was it was still pulling up over 1 amp when this occured. after pulling each fuse out of the ones on left and right hand dash.. this module was still clicking on and off. the power to this module must be fed from elsewhere.

I did not pull out the fuses out of the engine bay as i got a 0 current reading from all of these.. i also did not pull out the large 40 amp fuses unless i try this next.
 

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The starting battery is the one in the trunk.

The one under the seat powers the ancillaries and, if the trunk battery is dead, starts the car.

x2 on the mirrors - always leave the button in the 1000 or 1400 position for OFF.
 

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Welcome Kuchie

As lgibson said sounds like the Kessy module.
Attached is main convenience module as per your part number not the Kessy module which is a different number
Unit can be repaired fairly easily from reading other posts about a repair.
Let me know how you get on?

regards
Drag
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi All,

The convenince module is the one making the clicking noise (relay) and continually turning things on.

Used the VCDS this evening and the kessey module showed all antennas open circuit. Reset these... and my keyless entry and the door lock buttons are working which ive never seen working since obtaining the car nearly 2 weeks ago..... which not long after stopped working again.

Found other posts on the repair thank you. i ordered the parts but not yet pulled apart the kessey as its currently my daily driver. on top of this i need to wait 10 working days for my parts to arrive. I just disconnect the battery when i get home until further service.

Michael
 

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Be advised that the module identified in your first post as doing all the clicking,7L6 937 049, is the Central Electric module, address 09.
Central Convenience is 7L0 959 933 (address 46).
 

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The starting battery is the one in the trunk.

The one under the seat powers the ancillaries and, if the trunk battery is dead, starts the car.

x2 on the mirrors - always leave the button in the 1000 or 1400 position for OFF.
+1... replace the battery in the trunk... if it is bad you will put undue stress on the accessory battery (under the seat.)... if you wait too long you will need to replace both batteries with new ones. The problem is that the 2nd battery will allow you to start the Egg even when the starter battery is shot... so you aren't "forced" into changing it like most cars. My starter battery was dead (or almost dead) and I just kept driving my car for a few months since i could...but by the time i got around to changing it I had pretty much killed my other battery (although I am sure it was close to end of life as well.)
 

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If both batteries are of a similar age, and one is playing up, then for the few bucks extra I would simply change both of them at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Im awaiting parts for the kessey to fix this before venturing further on the central electronics module that keeps turning things on and off.

The battery under the seat is only a few months old. dated march this year, totally dead and will not charge above 8 volts. AS i didnt own the car when this battery was changed i have no proof of purchase and cannot send it beck.

The battery in the back is about 2 years old and load testes fine.
 

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Kessy

Had the same battery drain issue. If you take it to a dealership do not expect the seas to part. I had my Kessy repaired and that eliminated all the goofy messages I was receiving. After 5 tries at the dealership, all four door handles needed to be repaired. It was an independent VW repair shop who found the problem in a couple of days. It is a 04 V8 with 60k on it. I complained to VW (1-800 number) and they agreed to cover the cost of repairs. I also have a W8 Passat and never have any problems with the car. It is the best car I have owned and a blast to drive. I will admit when the Touareg is running it to is a fun vehicle to drive. Just be ready for the problems Touareg have. Good luck and check with the dealership to see what has been done to the vehicle.
 

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Just in case you did not already know this, the battery under the seat powers the ancillaries and will, if necessary start the car if the one in the boot/trunk, which should start the car, is duff.

If that under seat battery is not sound it may account for your curious problems. Just because it is relatively new does not necessarily mean it's a good 'un!
 

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Im awaiting parts for the kessey to fix this before venturing further on the central electronics module that keeps turning things on and off.

The battery under the seat is only a few months old. dated march this year, totally dead and will not charge above 8 volts. AS i didnt own the car when this battery was changed i have no proof of purchase and cannot send it beck.

The battery in the back is about 2 years old and load testes fine.
Hey kuchie
Take a few photos and post a list of the actual parts you replace and where you got them from can you?

regards
Drag
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hi All,

Solved !!

I replaced the 2 Mosfet's in the Kessey module. The resistors did test fine so i left them as is. I didnt take photos as there are heaps on this and other forums on the procedure. I had it out, resoldered and in in about 30 minutes.

Another drain test on the battery and was down to 0.08A after 5 minutes sleep time which is much better than when i first started. again its still a bit over spec but my meter might not be all that accurate down to this tiny amount.

3 Days and battery is still fine. Now to fix up the rest of the electrical faults listed on the VCDS. Ive cleared all the faults after refitting battery, driving around and some came back but that will be another post.

Michael
 

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Well done. Good luck with the rest of your faults. Let us know how you get on.
 

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Confused - please give suggestions

This will be a long post - I apologise but am completely confused re V10 batteries.

Big question: if trunk battery is starting battery, then why have trouble starting due to possible inefficient, ie maybe stuffed, battery under passenger seat?
Let the story begin.

Presently have roughly 150 000km on the clock. At about 100 000km we went on an off road trip. I had connected a 12v cable for fridge directly to trunk battery. When I connected fridge just before departure, fridge showed low voltage. Too late to do anything, so I took along genset for fridge. Car started perfectly!

On our return, dealer replaced trunk battery with new OEM. No problems since, UNTIL went camping couple of weekends ago - remember, about 40 000km later. Had fridge connected and, after one night, the next morning vehicle,on pushing start button, engine went sort of "oomph", and all lights on dash went out. Then lights reappeared and I used the key to start (without anti clockwise turn). Car started ok, but gave "engine fault" and ESP "off" light on. After a couple of km's all settled back to normal.Ok, I thought, I drained the battery with fridge.

Next weekend out, I did not connect fridge to battery. When vehicle started 2 days later, exactly same issue as described above. Important to add- the tailgate and a door left open for long periods - ie, interior lights burning!

I then left vehicle in garage for 3 days - locked, nothing opened or used. Perfect start, no problems at all!

My theory is that the passenger seat battery is stuffed. That would explain the problems when interior lights are burning, they are using the (original) accessory battery.

My question is, if the rear (starter) battery is still ok - relatively new, remember - then why have a "starting" problem? I suspect that it is some "intelligent" electronics is playing between the two batteries.

And, before I get criticism (although most welcome), yes, I should have replaced both batteries at the same time. I also intend to replace battery under seat, but the sequels of events confuses me.

To end, no, I do not have voltage readings or any of those other technical stuff you guru's are going to ask for:)

I will appreciate the thoughts of the V10 "guru's".
Cheers, Werner
 

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Werner
I believe that this PDF describes and explains you starting issue near perfectly.
I think you under seat battery may not be completely stuffed it just has 1 or 2 cells down and this is enough to cause issues with a low charge.
I had very similar issues when my under seat battery went.
I don't believe that you need to replace both batteries just because one has failed and you proved that for 40,000kms and I have done 2 years since I replaced my under seat unit and still going strong. I do believe that you need to remove the other battery and have it full load tested, that will sort the bad batteries from the good every time.

regards
Drag
 

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Cheers, Drag, sounds spot on!
 

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I can see two MOSFETs in your pictures - does one do the doors and the other the ignition ? - the reason I ask is my keyless entry does not work, my keyless starting works fine.
 
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