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So my wife called me the other morning to tell me that as she was leaving our neighborhood, the check engine light came on in our 07 V8 Touareg with 88k miles. She said she didn't pay any attention to it until the engine had a really rough idle at a red light and the check engine light started blinking. It was at that point that I told her to limp it the short distance home and park it. She said that as the RPM's picked up, the engine light would transition from flashing to steadily staying on. As the RPM dropped, it would run rough and flash. Doing some research, it sounded like the ignition coil pack could use replacing, so I ordered a new set seeing as how they would likely need to be replaced eventually anyway.

Fast-Forward to this morning. I replaced the coils and started the engine up. It still has a very rough idle and the check engine light is flashing. I took it for a very short, slow ride and noted that as I accelerated, the check engine light would transition to steadily staying on instead of flashing.

So I again parked it, and borrowed a friends generic code-reader. The code-reader is telling me the following:

- Multiple misfire detected
- Cylinder 1 misfire
- Cylinder 2 misfire
- Cylinder 3 misfire
- Cylinder 4 misfire
It also mentioned "over advanced camshaft timing"

I've checked the coils to insure that they were fully seated and plugged in and they all appeared to be with nothing loose.

Thoughts? I'd really like to get this fixed and hope it's not going to cost the farm to do so.....
 

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Now this is a real long shot but . . .

When the car is warm and idling do the engine revs fluctuate by about 50 or maybe 100 rpm or so?

If you rev the engine when the car is stationary, do the revs come straight back down or do they hover at about 2000 rpm briefly before falling back down?

If these situations apply, it might be a duff PCV.

A duff PCV can throw all sorts of engine and ignition codes, none of which point to the PCV itself!

A really duff PCV can squeal like a stuck pig - there's a small diaphragm which gets a hole in it and the oil vapours running through it make it whistle louder than a hob kettle at full steam!

You can clean the PCV on a V8 if the diaphragm is good, but it's a pull off and replace job that shouldn't take more than 15 minutes to fit a new one - mine cost about US$200 equivalent.

Now bear in mind, this is a long shot please.

 

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Had the same problem, 07 FSI V-8, 214,000 km and full dealer service history, turns out to be a bad timing chain tensioner and a broken chain guide on the drivers side bank. Intake cam out 4 teeth on the timing, hence misfires codes etc. Seems it probably backfired due to FSI issues (another story)hence jumping teeth and broken guide. 55 hours labour and $1000 in parts. Approached VW Canada twice and total silence. I believe the V-8 Audis are having similar problems. Anyone out there care to comment? FSI V-8 owners beware.

Stu
 

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Sounds like a typical case of tensioners and chain finally worn out. I recently did mine,it is an involved job as the engine needs to be removed and stripped down. This is a perfect time to do a de-carb on the intake valves and also replace the oil pressure retention valve that is buried under the intake manifold. I would recommend going to a VW/Audi specific repair facility that is equipped to do this repair as there are some very specific tools needed to set up the timing of the sprockets and gears
 

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Yes a dealer job I'm afraid, need a twin post hoist and a special scissor jack platform. The entire front suspension/sub frame with engine and trans needs to be lowered from the car before you even start the chains. In my case the chains were OK it's defective/poor quality tensioner, pretty disappointing considering regular dealer service and recommended oils. I had 214,000 km, most of them highway type driving. VW Canada still have not acknowledged my calls to them, I can't even find out if the replacement tensioner is improved. BTW there are 4 tensioner back there, I only replaced the bad one, I may regret that later. The car is worth so little now I don't feel like throwing $ at it. I do love driving it though. How many Km on yours spdfrk?

Stu
 

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Had the same problem, 07 FSI V-8, 214,000 km and full dealer service history, turns out to be a bad timing chain tensioner and a broken chain guide on the drivers side bank. Intake cam out 4 teeth on the timing, hence misfires codes etc. Seems it probably backfired due to FSI issues (another story)hence jumping teeth and broken guide. 55 hours labour and $1000 in parts. Approached VW Canada twice and total silence. I believe the V-8 Audis are having similar problems. Anyone out there care to comment? FSI V-8 owners beware.

Stu
Its stuff like this that scares the hell out of me, I am going to have my timing belt checked and look for vehicle service records at the dealer and hope my belt has been changed but I hear the belts are much easier to take care of even if they need replacement.
 

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The whole point of chains is that they should last almost indefinitely as they run in a shower of oil, but if you go cheap on the tensioners, what's the point! might as well have stuck with belts.

Stu
 

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The whole point of chains is that they should last almost indefinitely as they run in a shower of oil, but if you go cheap on the tensioners, what's the point! might as well have stuck with belts.

Stu
I absolutely agree, i got into a debate with nooby about this a couple weeks back.
 

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When I did mine it had aprox. 90,000 km's on it. I've now got 150 on the clock and it hasnt missed a beat. Ive thrown some $$ at mine over the past year (mostly renewing the front and rear suspension bushings and arms) and it drives like it was brand new.
 

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This is a known issue on the chain drive motor. I know of a lot of folks that have unloaded their 4.2 FSI Audi's because of this issue (most notably the B6 S4). It's also why I specifically looked for a 4.2 T1 instead of a T2. Sure it's down 50 HP, but it's damn near bullet proof.

Seems like 120k is when a lot of FSI folks start having tensioner issues - at least on the S4 side. It's not something that fails from improper usage - they just seem to fail.
 

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+1 to that, plus with the FSI constant start up misfires with a check engine light that is always on, clear it and its on the next day. VW/Audi can't resolve. No wonder the dealers get nervous if you want to trade it in on a T3, ( you'll get a lot more if you sell it yourself blah, blah blah). Too bad, a great driving car/truck, great deal to buy used because they are so damned cheap. I wish I had leased mine then it would be VW's problem. Oh well, too late now I'll just drive it into the ground, and enjoy it while it lasts.
 

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Hmmm, Yesterday (2/23/2016) my 2006 V8 with 87,7xx miles on the clock was on the way to the dealer for 90,000 check up. After a brief stop, it started making a clicking sound when i started it. The engine had a really rough idle at a red light and the check engine light started blinking. As the RPM's picked up, the engine light would transition from flashing to steadily staying on. As the RPM dropped, it would run rough and flash. The Dealer is telling me the cam tensioner on one side broke and i am looking at a minimum a $3,700 repair and there could be more problems once they get inside.......All service has been at dealer on schedule including the timing belt replacement at 80,000 miles. The service rep suggested i may want to trade it? Seems like quite the failure for an engine with so few miles. I don't know what to do......,.
 

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Call around / research VW independent mechanics and choose one with both good reviews and a fair price. Will be much less than VW. Oh and do not drive it...have it flat bedded.

I guess I would fix if it where me, the hit you would take on a trade in just isn't worth it...that said if there is more damage (bent valves or damaged pistons) I would have it put back together and trade it...all depends on cost.

Don't know until you get a fair price quote...
 

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I agree with Nooby. Check the PCV. I recently had very similar symptoms as the ones you listed including 12 CEL codes that came up. I noticed it was running very rough, would idle very high, it had very slow response while driving and terrible gas mileage. I could hear a whirring sound from under the hood. As it turns out the PCV on the back of the motor had torn the rubber diaphragm and wasn't able to maintain vacuum. After research I found out that I could get an OEM one online for around $65 or from my dealer $112. It may be a relatively inexpensive place to start checking. Cheers.
 
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