[TRespect]

You probably should check the speed sensor. Mine did frighten me two or three times banging under load. Then the speed sensor just died and the treg stalled after being hard driven for about 30mn. Replaced the sensor and did the usual maintenance and all is ok. Sensor is called g28. Around 50$ aftermarket or 120$ from vw. I’ll put the part number later. You should also go under the car and check everything is ok, drive shaft bearing support and drive shaft rubber flex disk. Both are easily visible.

G28 part number:

022 957 147 A




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TRespect]

And you really need a vcds scan to see if you have other issues causing this. You can always replace the g28 for 50$ but you need the vcds cable to find out what the treg is complaining about. Otherwise you’ll be just replacing parts until your pockets are empty ! If you don’t have a vcds cable get one from rosstech. You need a windows tablet or laptop.

VCDS with HEX-V2 Enthusiast | Ross-Tech

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TRespect]

If you intend on keeping the treg you better spend the money on a vcds cable instead of diagnosis sessions at shops. And generic scanner won’t help much. Trust me. Consider the vcds scanner a critical part gone bad and you need to replace it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TRespect]

Ok now that’s good stuff there.
Let’s start with the speed sensor.
And fix the brake boost issue.
The other error won’t be causing you that bang you’re experiencing. A friend is has been driving with that error for more than a year now.
Get a new speed sensor and ask your mechanic to replace it. Let me know if he does not find it. It is near the oil cooler.
For the brake booster issue you need to check the hose coming from the brake booster to the vaccum pump behind the passenger side headlight. I will post a link to a thread showing you what that is.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TRespect]

Here you go

Electric Brake Booster Vacuum Pump Official Thread

I'm in the process of diagnosing this pump on my 2004 VR6 (Petrol). This pump is used on a lot of vehicles and on different Touareg models (V6 and V8 Petrol + Automatic gearbox). So I thought I'd put all the literature here for any future troubleshooter :) This is gonna be a thread of ramblings...

www.clubtouareg.com

Follow that hose and you will find some cracks either on the check valves or at the firewall. I guess the cracks must be after the junction going to the intake manifold otherwise you would be seeing lean condition errors.
Just use some electric tape to block the leaks as the vacuum pressure will pull on the cracks and not blow the tape off.
You will notice better braking

 

[TRespect]

Another tip is to remove and test/prime the chain tensioner to see if it helps with the other issue (chain correlation). You need to remove the air duct going to the throttle body. It’s there underneath. I will add some links so you can see where stuff is. A lot of things to check on the 3.2 to make it run smooth.
Get some spare frech oil and try to prime the tensioner. If it’s dead you need a new one from vw.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TRespect]

Here is a vid on priming the tensioner. It’s not touareg specific. Just to show you what it means:
The tensioner is a 27mm bolt if I remember well. Located behind the throttle body.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TRespect]

Use this thread to measure the health of your chain: take pics or log everything. Do it with a warm engine and if you can do it while driving too that would give you a better idea.
If you don’t know how to do advanced logging with vcds let me know.

How to measure 3.2 V6 timing chain stretch with VCDS.

According to a french forum it could be possible to measure the timing chain stretch with VCDS. Go into groups 208 and 209 at idle and note the 3rd value. Both should be between -6 and 6 AND the two values should not be further apart than 4. In my case, both values is -6 and then the...

www.clubtouareg.com

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TRespect]

G28 sensor location:

Audi Workshop Manuals > A3 Quattro V6-3.2L (BUB) (2008) > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations

A3 Quattro V6-3.2L (BUB) (2008) > Audi Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations

workshop-manuals.com

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TRespect]

Yeaaah nooby gone missing :-(
I’m still bringing back to life my 3.2. Not my daily driver so repairs are done at ease. The first oil change I did I was shocked too. Had to do oil changes every 2 or 3k km. Lots of stuff to check and repair afterwards. I even relocated the vacuum tank just to make it easier to work on the beast. I’m currently fighting with the variable intake changeover valve. I replaced the oem bushings with gruvenparts ones and a year later the noise came back stronger. You will experience that too sometime in the future if you keep it. Have owned it since 2017 and man a lot of work and money but I’m enjoying it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TRespect]

The speed sensor sounds bang on. It shifts funny going up small inclines, then will completely shutter slash stall for a split second causing it to thud. Not to mention it would take a few turns of the key to start. My dumbass should have taken the codes more seriously instead of dumping $2k into a valve body.

I just hope they haven’t messed up the transmission. Mine is still working fine wirh a minor hesitation from 4 to 5th gear when tranny is hot. Barely noticeable. I did the first atf complete flush two months ago with ravenol type iv atf and it’s been working fine so far. Took me about 12L to flush it all using the pan removal and cooler lines trick.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TRespect]

Just dont’ drive it anymore until you fix the sensor.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TRespect]

Some more 3.2 threads for your free time:

3.2 Valve cover gasket replacement

Anybody done this before? I will use elsawin to do the replacement but if you have any tips or diy info feel free to add them here.

www.clubtouareg.com

T1 V6 3.2 Combi Valve (EGR) replacement

I did this job and wanted to share some pics. The Treg had developed a serious coolant leak on the passenger side bank (LHD). But the leak was not visible outside or underneath the car. Coolant was leaking on the aluminum coolant return line and evaporated leaving only limescale traces on the...

www.clubtouareg.com

Inside a T1 T2 bad fuel pump and how to fix it

I'm not sure I posted something similar but I've always wanted to know why the original pumps were failing at a high rate on the T1 and T2. Maybe more on the T1. Mine i a 2004 and the pumps have not been replaced yet. I'm seeing a rich condition and I'm troubleshooting it bit by bit. I will be...

www.clubtouareg.com

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TRespect]

Thanks mister I have al the stuff I need over here I do use ebay and aliexpress a lot for body parts and vw or oem brands for critical stuff.
Grab those wrecked tregs and stash them somewhere you will need them
Let me know how it goes when you’re done with the sensor.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TRespect]

Bad check valves would cause air flow back to the intake. There are two check valves on that line. One on the brake booster line going to the intake where most of the brake assistance is done. The other, more visible, near the pump.
Most of the time the hose is cracked on the check valves.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TRespect]

I have changed the brake vacuum booster along with the lines/one way valves (both). Also I have changed the speed sensor. Will scan and update shortly

That was quick
There are at least four causes for wet floor mats that I know of. The craziest one being a seal between the firewall and the ac drain on the passenger side (lhd). I had to drive with carpet torn open and a paper napkin near the seal to find out where water was coming from. I will upload pictures later.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TRespect]

Ok. What brand did you use for the speed sensor?
Any error codes in the transmission module?
What engine errors do you have now?

Can you check the flex disk health under the car if you see what I mean?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TRespect]

Ok can you find a pattern to the slamming? Gear number or under load or braking? Anything that can help narrow it down to either engine or transmission?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TRespect]

Can you do vcds advanced logging and try to reproduce the issue?
Go into engine module
Advanced measuring blocks
Choose engine speed, vehicle speed, all 4 abs sensor (don’t have the right block numbers or names) and see if your abs sensors are not sending different speeds and that the engine speed is not being lost somewhere before or when the slamming occurs.
You have to click on Turbo then start logging. Give the log a nice name to be able to recognize it later when analyzing the output.
Then do the same for the transmission module: log all speed input and output sensors and look for weird data like sensors zeroing out or sending crazy data.
You can log up to 12 blocks this way.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TRespect]

Here is how you do the advanced logging and some ideas to help in the future.

VCDS Logging - APR

www.goapr.com

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk