Club Touareg Forum banner

101 - 117 of 117 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
350 Posts
From what I recall Colt also provides or can guide you to the extra hardened beatings. If you have not, then I would suggest calling colt directly he can provide you all the parts or give you direction - I went that route. Plus I got a better price for the cams. As for the cam tools, you can buy them on line and gave them rush delivered.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
I will call him this morning - thanks. :D I see tools in China and UK only - I assume UK would the faster if not cheaper option. Thanks to all - this has been very helpful.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
I'm expecting yes - I'm still at the "show all my oil changes" part. I'd likely have pay the difference between whatever they find (the cheapest possible) and Colt. And after that - my warranty is up anyway.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
We are at the "well, ok we MIGHT have pay - now you authorize teardown to inspect" point - typical of insurance. The black-and-white print says they will be buying it but you know they are looking for loopholes. They were asking the shop "what made this happen?" - VW engineering is the answer...... Colt is still getting together the cams etc - not yet shipped.
235734
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
Hey bud, what is the news on your project?
Wellllll...it drags on. The process of dealing with the warranty is slowed by the virus. My two PCM's got back from SSP yesterday - the Colt cams were a week or so back - and I got the special tool kit - and I need to stop by the shop and see where we are at. I know there was to be an inspector coming out - but did he/will he at this time? Auto repair is being declared critical ...is a Warranty Inspector? So I need to check - is it further apart, for inspection - and is the inspector coming. This is all covered stuff - the cams, the turbos (leaking oil) - it's just getting them to send the check. I looked into an extended, 5 yr warranty btw - take it waay out there - but it is limited to 10k for the life of the program, doesn't cover as much, allows used parts - and costs about 1/3 the total value. So the 10k is really 6k of coverage. I'm down a car - but it's winter - and I am suddenly a full time telecommuter(mostly). Work provided a 2011 Escape for my occasional dispatch to fix stuff (I'm...Telecom Backbone might describe it - I maintain the stuff that feeds all the stuff :D - 10G/100G connections that reach the lower 48. I'm the Internet - but I can barely fix my local router at home, lol ) so I am able to get to where I need to go. The V10 is the wife's car - and she misses it. A lot. I wish I had kept the old 06 V6 we had as our son's first car but I sold it and helped him buy a 00 Cherokee - a much better car to learn about maintaining :D but not great for the wife to borrow. So - clearly the long long answer is easily shortened to: Not much.
Oh - I broke the driver's side EGT sensor - anyone know if that is used after DPF delete?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
I did replace my cam shafts with the engine still in the vehicle. It went smoothly up to the point where I had to set the cam gear, lined up the mark etc. I put the car back together and it fired up and runs great. However, according to my VCDS I am getting the P0341 error code. I think I installed the timing gear a 180 degrees out. Is there a definitive way to know which way the gear goes in? I can not lock in the crank but I can lock in the cams. So, since I can not lock the crank I can be be out 180 degrees. My question is do you set the gear with the cam lobes on the #1 cylinder pointing downward or with the cam lobes pointing upward? If anyone can help me with this procedure it would be greatly appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
Hmm. I got a 7.3 IDI Turbo to run 180 out once - it was firing on the bottom of the compression stroke - or more correctly "injecting". It ran surprisingly well - not great, and was hot - but it ran. My mechanic was looking at my engine with me and made the comment that "only 1 cam lobe is pointing downward" during assembly. The cam tool I bought isn't clear on instructions. I asked Mécanique Évolution about start up instructions for my Colt Cams - "your mechanic better know what he is doing" is not a great answer. This is his first V10 and mine as well.
Covid is making this painful, slow process more painful, and slower. The car has occupied a rack for weeks and weeks. The insurance/warranty keeps stalling and asking for photos. It's a lot of stress sometimes. But - it's still winter here. With lockdown - the car isn't as missed. I could have had it on a "non-running" insurance for a couple of months - that could have saved some money.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
I did replace my cam shafts with the engine still in the vehicle. It went smoothly up to the point where I had to set the cam gear, lined up the mark etc. I put the car back together and it fired up and runs great. However, according to my VCDS I am getting the P0341 error code. I think I installed the timing gear a 180 degrees out. Is there a definitive way to know which way the gear goes in? I can not lock in the crank but I can lock in the cams. So, since I can not lock the crank I can be be out 180 degrees. My question is do you set the gear with the cam lobes on the #1 cylinder pointing downward or with the cam lobes pointing upward? If anyone can help me with this procedure it would be greatly appreciated.
When the #1 Cylinder is at Top Dead Center, the cam lobes should be off of the lifters at the #1 Cylinder, so both the intake and exhaust valves are closed. That is how it should be when performing the timing procedure. If you've timed it correctly, then you should consider the wiring to the Camshaft Position Sensor, or possible the sensor itself, may have problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
Good thing Covid has us all locked down. 3 weeks ago, the service writer got back from 2 weeks off and was contacted by the warranty - just a couple more days and they would have an invoice - yesterday they called an told him they are only going to pay 8,515.42 - but I don't know for what yet - if that is "totaled" ? He submitted 12k in invoice - vw cams, parts, etc plus I think he put in for new turbos at VW deal prices ( in Alaska always add more) . The turbos were leaking oil - likely why my DPF was going off all smokey so frequently.

Recommendations for a turbo rebuild? I'm not crazy about paying out over $4k for a pair (quick search online says $2200 per side - likely not cheaper here at VW dealer). This was with the controllers too. More like $1500 a pair online for rebuilt with no controllers - but I have no knowledge of quality.

So - light at the end of the tunnel? Hopefully not a train coming the other way :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
]
?? Ouch! but - about the same price as new at VW shop. Would a "15%" improvement of airflow be small enough to keep within a range the tuned PCM would handle? More air is lower EGT, generally.
They have a phone! I think I will call and talk to them at least.

Ebay? They have SquareTrade for Turbos? Who are they really? Bad reviews are really bad lol.
x2 plus would need to replace the controllers a too.

I can find cartridges pretty cheap - but I'm not crazy about getting a non-turbo specialist to assemble these things. It's just too hard to get in there for one thing.

The warranty says the are "maxed" at a bit over $7k - the invoice the shop sent was for $12k - factory VW parts, cams, turbos, etc.
My paperwork says NOTHING about max or write-off - but it's also possible they have a different set of numbers - they tend to find a cheaper alternative when they can. When it was the A/C, they found a $600 rebuilt compressor - I paid for the $1200 one with a good 3 year warranty.

STILL on the lift - now at 2 months and counting. I should get the remote-heat thing swapped for the one that you can control while we are in there -it's exposed and accessible - RIGHT NOW.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
Stillllll on the lift - but the cams are in. The turbos went to Tim's Turbos for rebuilding. I had an offer - a very good one - to use low mileage upgraded (bigger compressor) turbos - but I need to remember this is primarily the wire's car day to day - it needs to not be laggy/surging or especially - can't spend a lot of time running weird. After all this time and money she would have zero patience for "figuring out" custom modified turbos. SO - nearly stock - soon. It's finally summer so I will need the tow rig for camping one of these days.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
When the #1 Cylinder is at Top Dead Center, the cam lobes should be off of the lifters at the #1 Cylinder, so both the intake and exhaust valves are closed. That is how it should be when performing the timing procedure. If you've timed it correctly, then you should consider the wiring to the Camshaft Position Sensor, or possible the sensor itself, may have problems.
I got my engine out at the moment and received my cam kit from Lymm engine components today. The timing tool should be here later this evening. I've been reading the ELSA procedure of replacing the camshafts and it says to place the pistons evenly below TDC when replacing the cams. Is this the way to do it? To me it sounds hard to get it timed when not locking everything down at TDC and put in the new cam in the same position as the old. Then I also know that piston nr1 is at top and that I have to make sure the lobes doesn't engage. Won't I risk piston crash if I do as the manual describes and then rotate the engine to TDC before timing the cams before I fit the wheel?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Another weird thing about my cams. The replacement kit from Lymm Engine Components (GT Automotive cams, supposedly an aftermarket hydraulic grind but made by the OEM supplier) came with ten "normal" bearings and two "oddball" bearings. The "normal" bearinngs are sold in sets of five. The oddball bearings are narrower and have the locating tab on the opposite side of the "normal" bearings. This is supposedly the way all of the V10s are equipped. However, on mine, it only took ONE oddball bearing (right front) and eleven of the "normal" bearings. No one at Lymm had ever seen this before. VW dealer was not much help, either. VW parts diagrams show all 12 bearings identified the same in the drawing, but there are two part numbers. The "oddball" part number shows it is located "rear." It doesn't specify how many you need. At any rate, I had to scramble to find a single additional "normal" bearing.
It's kinda late reply but this parts drawing below states 2pieces of "070 103 673 A" (one bearing) and 22 pieces of "038 103 673 B" (11 bearings). I also like you got 4 pieces of the first bearing from Lymm it seems. I'll open the engine tomorrow just to confirm that it's wrong and order a normal bearing from my dealer. Annoying that they can't get their kit right..

 
101 - 117 of 117 Posts
Top