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Vaughan
First thing you do is get an oil sample done by some like this (Techenomics International)
Review that then we can talk cams as you may not need them if you are lucky.
The performance gains from cams in a diesel is not like a petrol car what these cams do is
- last longer than std
- offer a smother idle
- Prepare the engine for a tune


Drag
Hey Drag, a quick question, with Colt Stage 2 cams, do I have to remove the DPF? I was wondering this because the orig. cams are designed to handle DPF but not sure if Colt cams are. I have sent the question to Colt company see what they say.
 

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Hey Drag, a quick question, with Colt Stage 2 cams, do I have to remove the DPF? I was wondering this because the orig. cams are designed to handle DPF but not sure if Colt cams are. I have sent the question to Colt company see what they say.



I don't see why you would need to.
Preferable but not manditory.


regards
Drag
 

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To hold the camshafts for undoing their bolt through the gear I gabbed up this plate. It holds the cams perfectly level with the head surface for alignment while being strong enough to prevent any movement for torquing those bolts. Worked like a charm.
 

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Unfortunately, I have just got the thumping noise that is a failed exhaust lifter. I do have a shop but no lift or cradle to hold the subframe. So, I will be attempting to remove the camshafts without removing the motor. The tandem pump looks pretty straight forward. When the 36 mm nut is removed on the camshaft gear do you need to mark the gear, in relation to the other gears, before you remove it?
 

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Bitopower,
I just finished another install on an 06 V10. This time we did stage 3 cam grind with a slightly more aggressive injector profile.
While we were at it I rebuilt the turbos (no need to pull engine to remove). Modified the hot side with a Vband and dabbed up a dual 2.5” straight pipe the entire way. Vehicle is still really quiet with the straight pipe due to the lack of a wastegate.

I’ve got it back up and running and it runs really nice with no loss of bottom end on the stage 3 grind.
When you remove the Camshafts. How do you ensure that the timing is correct when you install the new cams? Do you have to set the engine to TDC before you remove them? Does the gear on the camshaft come out with the camshaft? Anything you can share is appreciated
 

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When you remove the Camshafts. How do you ensure that the timing is correct when you install the new cams? Do you have to set the engine to TDC before you remove them? Does the gear on the camshaft come out with the camshaft? Anything you can share is appreciated
I am watching this with great interest, a lot can be achieved with the motor in situation unlike what VW tell you.
 

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Doing this procedure right now with the engine out. The cam drive gear is bolted to the end of the camshaft and there is a "diamond disc" washer between them that I think creates some good friction between the two, because the gear/cam are NOT keyed to each other--the gear is free to be mounted in any position with respect to the cam and held in place only by friction. The bolt that holds it on is torqued to 150 NM plus 90 degrees! That becomes a very high torque. Now the gear on the right bank does have to be in the correct position with respect to the rest of the engine gears because it has a sensor trigger on it. There is a reference mark on the gear that aligns with the cover gasket-mating surface of the cylinder head. The cam timing is correct when you install the factory cam-timing tools onto the front of the engine. These consist of three pieces: one bolts to the crankshaft in lieu of the harmonic balancer/flywheel, and the other two fit into the notches on the front of each cam. The other ends of each tool fit into holes on the front of the engine, and when all three are simultaneously aligned, the timing is correct. The manual also has a procedure for taking out the slack in the drive gears. When all is set, you tighten that bolt on the back end of the cam that holds the drive gear in place. I've got to go back and re-check my right one, since it looks like the tool holding that cam in front may have slipped out of place during the process. Ugh. The hardest part, for me, was getting all the drive gears and associated yokes aligned perfectly to put that "pin" or "axle" shaft back in through all the pieces simultaneously. It's a tricky juggling act. I can't imagine doing this job with the engine in the vehicle.
 

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This is what the manual shows for the alignment mark on the right-bank cam gear timing wheel, but on mine (2006), it was aligned 180-degrees from that (i.e. with the top edge of the head) in the position in which I had my engine locked with the timing tools.
 

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Another weird thing about my cams. The replacement kit from Lymm Engine Components (GT Automotive cams, supposedly an aftermarket hydraulic grind but made by the OEM supplier) came with ten "normal" bearings and two "oddball" bearings. The "normal" bearinngs are sold in sets of five. The oddball bearings are narrower and have the locating tab on the opposite side of the "normal" bearings. This is supposedly the way all of the V10s are equipped. However, on mine, it only took ONE oddball bearing (right front) and eleven of the "normal" bearings. No one at Lymm had ever seen this before. VW dealer was not much help, either. VW parts diagrams show all 12 bearings identified the same in the drawing, but there are two part numbers. The "oddball" part number shows it is located "rear." It doesn't specify how many you need. At any rate, I had to scramble to find a single additional "normal" bearing.
 
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