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This is the engine oil colour on my wife's 2007 Toyota Auris 2.0 litre D4D DIESEL engine 1500 miles after a flush with 1 quart Totally Awesome and 5 quarts of oil, idling for 20 minutes.
 

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Hi Crazyquik,

I read and replied to this in the middle of the night over here after a gruelling late shift at work (key worker). Due to the volume of info on both pages I knew I wouldn't retain every detail as I could barely keep my eyes open. That's why I prefaced my post saying if I repeat or miss something it's not intentional.

Just before attacking my tranny, I sought advice from a semi retired mechanic whose boss had one of these when they were new. He warned me not to get anything in the fluid/sump that shouldn't be there. He said one human hair will cause it problems. I could be wrong but don't see multiple fluid changes (on their own) purging the tranny and system of all debris the size of a single human hair from every nook and cranny. I would be leaning towards a flush with chemicals.

With reference to the mix of fluid brands, I wasn't criticising you. I appreciate the cost implication (that stuff ain't cheap) and that all of us have to keep to a budget. Just trying to give you the best advice I can so you can make informed decisions.

If you search on youtube for a cayenne tranny fluid change by DIY Dan I think, he says that Toyota Type 4 fluid is chemically identical to the Porsche brand fluid from the dealer, according to Blackstone labs. It is considerably cheaper with the toy5label on it and will save you more than a few bucks if you opt to go to town and flush the entire system.

Either way, whatever advice you take, you're welcome mate. Hope you get it sorted soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
I finally got the new o-ring in from VW and I also changed the filter just for good measure. Re-installed filter and did re-learn on transmission and still has the same problem. It is slipping out of every gear and into neutral except reverse. I monitored clutch slippage via vagcom and vagcom is not seeing any unusual tourque converter/clutch slippage. There is also a grinding noise when it slips out of gear. I am not sure where to look next. Also just for the hell of it, I tried running it in low range and locking the center diff to see how it would behave, and when locking just the front diff, it shifted a better but still slipped out of gear, and when locking the center diff it seemed to shift very well through all 6 gears. but with the center diff locked I didnt get over 30 mph.
 

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I see two other things to check.
1. Wiring and connector on the box. Check the connector is dry and firmly seated.
2. Maybe a bad TCM. Maybe something external to the box killed the first valvebody. TCM is available cheap on ebay. Just get one which is the exact same version as what you have. Take it to vw to program to the car.


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Ok I have gone back in time and read all the two threads. Your initial issue is the same issue I had when I bought my v6 3.2. When under load the 4 to 5 was harsh and sometimes frightening. I had two related issues. The flector (flex) disk was torn to pieces and my speed sensor gave up a few days later. I fixed both so now I have a gentle but still present and noticible only by me shift from 4 to 5 and only when I have done over a 100 km (hot box). Most of the times I don’t notice it but I know I have to take care of it. I thought about getting a new tcm. I bought 20L of ravenol atf type 4 oil and will be doing a full flush then an oil and filter service. I have a thread for this hard 4 to 5 **** too but I havent updated it in a while.
Now back to your issue. I understand you don’t want to lose more money. You need to make sure the revmax valve body is 100% ok. It’s a rebuilt unit so something might have gone wrong after the 1000 miles you put into it. This is what I would do if I were you.


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Discussion Starter #26
Ok I have gone back in time and read all the two threads. Your initial issue is the same issue I had when I bought my v6 3.2. When under load the 4 to 5 was harsh and sometimes frightening. I had two related issues. The flector (flex) disk was torn to pieces and my speed sensor gave up a few days later. I fixed both so now I have a gentle but still present and noticible only by me shift from 4 to 5 and only when I have done over a 100 km (hot box). Most of the times I don’t notice it but I know I have to take care of it. I thought about getting a new tcm. I bought 20L of ravenol atf type 4 oil and will be doing a full flush then an oil and filter service. I have a thread for this hard 4 to 5 **** too but I havent updated it in a while.
Now back to your issue. I understand you don’t want to lose more money. You need to make sure the revmax valve body is 100% ok. It’s a rebuilt unit so something might have gone wrong after the 1000 miles you put into it. This is what I would do if I were you.


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Appreciate the response. I am very skeptical at this point that it is anything to do with the valve body itself, especially since when I lock the center diff, it shifts through all 6 gears as smooth as butter. Plus the grinding noise I am hearing now leads me to believe it is something else besides the valve body. I couldn't see the valve body make any kind of grinding noise, please correct me if someone knows different. Now I am thinking more it could be differential or transfer case related. I am not sure about this but this is what I am thinking. If I cant figure out the issue by Tuesday I am taking it in to a local trans shop to at least get a diagnosis as to what is wrong and as long as it doesn't require them to remove/take apart the transmission to diagnose, I will probably preform any repairs needed myself.
 

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I just replied In another gearbox issue thread and this might be helpful to you too. Can you do some advanced measuring block logging?
This example is for the engine. You just choose the gearbox module. You can then do this in both low gear and normal driving to compare. I can do the same and compare data. We need to agree on which measuring block to log.




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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
Took the Touareg to a tranny shop. I drove it about 10 miles to the shop with the center diff locked and that was the only way it shifted well enough to get it there. After I got into the parking lot I noticed I lost Park. Talked to the mechanic yesterday. Said he got it up on the lift and drained the fluid and couldn't notice anything wrong, but he noticed it was pretty low on front diff fluid, so he looked around for leaks and noticed it was leaking a little bit of fluid around the drivers side axle where the flange goes into the driveshaft. He said he hardly even touched it and the flange fell out of the differential. He was as confused as I am as to how this could have happened. There is almost no clearance for that axle to "pop out". He will be inspecting the axle and differential for any damage today, but I might have got lucky. So my guess is what has been happening since I was having the issue of it "slipping into neutral the last few weeks" was that the flange going into the driveshaft was just barely engaging and after I drove it a few miles it finally popped out completely.
 

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wow wtf man!!!
 

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The low fluid would obviously cause these symptoms. Thats why it should have a dipstick so we're not left scratchin' our nuts wondering what level its at and what condition it is in.

Odd though that you didn't notice any puddles or drips underneath.

Am glad things are moving in the right direction for you.
 

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That is one strange and unique problem, something that does not happen every day.

Unhooking one of the axles would cause some major slippage. I would expect the vehicle to barely be able to move.

Will be waiting to hear how this one turns out.
 

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The fact that there is no tranny dipstick in the engine bay to keep an eye on the fluid level and condition for such an exceptional and expensive vehicle really chaps my arse.

The fact you have to jack it up and then crawl underneath it like a snake really winds me up

If it did have a dipstick then Crazyquik could have diagnosed low fluid level from above the vehicle ages ago.

i did the tranny fluid/filter service back in December last year and am glad I did. The lifetime fluid was at the end of its lifespan and the metallic sludge on the magnets and bottom of the sump pan was disgusting.

237473


The job itself was horrendous, unnecessarily complex and painful in every sense of the word. I'm not quite 50 years old yet and due to medical issues have the joints and vertebrae of a 75 to 80 year old. So when something is engineered to be so unnecessarily complex and awkward to work on it is very noticable on my body for days afterwards.

I had to get the Treg up on ramps and then shimmy underneath the vehicle on my back just to check the tranny fluid level and condition.

It's such a pain to prep the vehicle to do what should be a simple 'pull and inspect' check that in anticipation I just bought a case of type iv Aisin fluid and a dc powered fluid pump and committed to a fluid and filter change rather than just going through the hassle of checking it and then putting it back up on the ramps for a second time to change the fluid/filter.

Every owner that does their own DIY has my deepest sympathy for living with this hassle.
 

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Further to my last, if it was 'only' a couple of hundred for the dealer to do it I'd probably let them have at it but from members on here and info obtained elsewhere it is about £900 U.K. - $1000 U.S. for a fluid and filter change due to the cost of he type iv fluid and the shop time involved.

Even if she is a Bentley under the skin, I can't justify shelling out that kind of money when 1. it is a $50 service on an average car 2. $1000 can be better utlised elsewhere.

Have taken some pics of the service I did without VCDS. If there isn't one on here alreay will do a write up for those without VCDS that want to do it themselves.

Apologies, not wanting to hijack the thread, but this subject really enrages me.
 

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Time to engineer a dipstick for the Treg then :) I thought about adding one myself. It will require a custom oil pan and incorporate an electronic dipstick. Who wants one? 10.000€ :)


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