Have to replace my brake pads soon so I called the dealer and they have said can't reuse my pad sensors if the pad indicater light turned on . Is this true ? What's the issue if indicator is on or off . ?
Brake pad sensors ?
Tregchi87
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If your brake pad wear light is on then your dealer is right because the wire inside the wear pad that maintains the circuit and keeps the light off has now been cut by the wear against the rotor which is why the wear light is now on!
So, yes, you will need new wear indicators.
It can be very hard to dig old wear indicators out anyway even if they are intact.
So, yes, you will need new wear indicators.
It can be very hard to dig old wear indicators out anyway even if they are intact.
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Sorry for bringing this thread back up but I'll have to change my brake pads too, on my T2 V6 TDI @ 80,000 kms. I have questions :
My brake pad indicator light in the MFD came on yesterday.
1. How "long" can you wait before changing pads if I mostly do highway, without damaging the rotors...?
2. What would be a good "brand" of brake pads if I often tow a Travel Trailer during summer...? OEM ok...?
Cheers...
My brake pad indicator light in the MFD came on yesterday.
1. How "long" can you wait before changing pads if I mostly do highway, without damaging the rotors...?
2. What would be a good "brand" of brake pads if I often tow a Travel Trailer during summer...? OEM ok...?
Cheers...
I wouldn't tow until you have replaced the pads / rotors. For regular driving you have probably got 1000 to 2000 miles maybe more before the pads completely give out.
You may not be able to just replace the pads. Measure the rotor thickness and compare that to the minimum requirement. I needed to replace both the rotors and pads on mine. I do a lot of towing and have been happy with the factory (Padgid) pads. By the way the MFD light had not come on yet on mine but I had one pad that had already lost a piece off the corner due to it getting thin and the stress of towing. Be safe and do the brakes as soon as you can.
You may not be able to just replace the pads. Measure the rotor thickness and compare that to the minimum requirement. I needed to replace both the rotors and pads on mine. I do a lot of towing and have been happy with the factory (Padgid) pads. By the way the MFD light had not come on yet on mine but I had one pad that had already lost a piece off the corner due to it getting thin and the stress of towing. Be safe and do the brakes as soon as you can.
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Thanks Mike,
I'll do...! I will not tow until summer arrives but I don't want to mess up the rotors too much...
You really think it needs replacement...? They "look" really fine from the outside...no rust, no grooves...
What would be the minimum thickness requirement on those...? I'll check this week-end.
Thanks
I'll do...! I will not tow until summer arrives but I don't want to mess up the rotors too much...
You really think it needs replacement...? They "look" really fine from the outside...no rust, no grooves...
What would be the minimum thickness requirement on those...? I'll check this week-end.
Thanks
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801 Posts
The pad sensors go off when the wire wears through. Many factors will determine how long you have left - chief among them your driving and braking behaviors. If you do a lot of stop and go driving, and / or brake hard, you don't have nearly as long. If you spend more time commuting or driving on the highway, you've got quite a while.
You certainly don't need to panic and rush out and get them replaced. There 4 sensors, and 8 brake pads in the system. The sensors are designed to tell you when the pad material is getting thin, not gone. There is still a considerable amount of pad left if your light just came on. I say that from personal experience. I waited about 2500 miles after my light came on and there was still at least 1/4 inch of material left on the worst worn pad. The other three had considerably more.
Some would call it irresponsible, but I've driven pads down to the backing before (on my Passat). The car will still stop - it just takes a bit longer.
The best advice I can give you is try to get a visual inspection. If you contort yourself and crawl around, you should be able to do it without taking the rim off. It's much easier if you take the rim off. You will want to look at the inside and outside pads - front and rear. Chances are it's the fronts - they seem to wear much faster than the rears.
Ultimately, you should do what makes you most comfortable.
As for the work itself, it's not too bad a job to do it yourself. If you aren't handy, find an independent VW / Audi place and have them do it. Your best deal is to buy the parts yourself if you have someone do the work.
Good luck!
You certainly don't need to panic and rush out and get them replaced. There 4 sensors, and 8 brake pads in the system. The sensors are designed to tell you when the pad material is getting thin, not gone. There is still a considerable amount of pad left if your light just came on. I say that from personal experience. I waited about 2500 miles after my light came on and there was still at least 1/4 inch of material left on the worst worn pad. The other three had considerably more.
Some would call it irresponsible, but I've driven pads down to the backing before (on my Passat). The car will still stop - it just takes a bit longer.
The best advice I can give you is try to get a visual inspection. If you contort yourself and crawl around, you should be able to do it without taking the rim off. It's much easier if you take the rim off. You will want to look at the inside and outside pads - front and rear. Chances are it's the fronts - they seem to wear much faster than the rears.
Ultimately, you should do what makes you most comfortable.
As for the work itself, it's not too bad a job to do it yourself. If you aren't handy, find an independent VW / Audi place and have them do it. Your best deal is to buy the parts yourself if you have someone do the work.
Good luck!
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Thanks ameoba...!
I confirm that it's only the front that need replacing, as I had approx. 20% left at my last inspection at the dealer 10,000 kms ago. The rears were more than 50% remaining.
I can certainly do the job myself, as I think Brembo reciprocating 6 pistons are much easier to press in that regular "big" single pistons, right...? Also, I've seen a lot of DIY videos on Youtube and it seems REALLY easy...and quick. Shouldn't be a problem.
I'll take a look tonight in the wheel to see if I can "guestimate" how long before I need to change...Like I said, I do approx. 90% highway with the car at the moment....!
Thanks guys....greatly appreciated....!
Cheers
I confirm that it's only the front that need replacing, as I had approx. 20% left at my last inspection at the dealer 10,000 kms ago. The rears were more than 50% remaining.
I can certainly do the job myself, as I think Brembo reciprocating 6 pistons are much easier to press in that regular "big" single pistons, right...? Also, I've seen a lot of DIY videos on Youtube and it seems REALLY easy...and quick. Shouldn't be a problem.
I'll take a look tonight in the wheel to see if I can "guestimate" how long before I need to change...Like I said, I do approx. 90% highway with the car at the moment....!
Thanks guys....greatly appreciated....!
Cheers
I have heard a lot of people say that they have had considerable pad thickness left when the brake warning came on. I wish I had a photo of my pads when I took them off but my sensors had not triggered (worn through) and the thinnest corner of my worst pad had probably only about 1/16" of pad thickness left. As Ameoba recommended, get them checked or remove the wheel and visually check them yourself. You may have a nice amount of pad left or as in my case be to a point where the brake lining is starting to break up.
I've never tried but I'll bet that the brake wear sensor can be pushed into the pad from the pad face side. If you do this it will trigger before it should. The sensor has a groove around the edge that should engage with a raised ridge in the pad backing plate. The sensor needs to be inserted from the edge of the pad.
A couple of notes here:
I agree with inspecting the pads to see where you are at. Both sides, both pads.
The warning goes off early in my opinion. I got 23k more miles out of my brakes (105k total) but I did have the parts on-hand well in advance. This is why:
As the pads get too thin, braking performance suffers. Your stopping distance will increase for heavy braking. For repetitive heavy braking it will suffer even more. Best advice I can give here is either change out early or really pay attention to what your vehicle is telling you. If you pay attention, you will know when its time to change out the parts before it becomes dangerous. Don't try to push it. When you notice that your brakes aren't performing well (don't wait until you are thinking to yourself that they're crappy), then its time to change them - do not pass go do not collect $200. Pushing them past this point can be dangerous to you and others.
Good luck.
I agree with inspecting the pads to see where you are at. Both sides, both pads.
The warning goes off early in my opinion. I got 23k more miles out of my brakes (105k total) but I did have the parts on-hand well in advance. This is why:
As the pads get too thin, braking performance suffers. Your stopping distance will increase for heavy braking. For repetitive heavy braking it will suffer even more. Best advice I can give here is either change out early or really pay attention to what your vehicle is telling you. If you pay attention, you will know when its time to change out the parts before it becomes dangerous. Don't try to push it. When you notice that your brakes aren't performing well (don't wait until you are thinking to yourself that they're crappy), then its time to change them - do not pass go do not collect $200. Pushing them past this point can be dangerous to you and others.
Good luck.
If you are on the original pads, I would stick with them that is some really good life out of SUV pads.
This picture shows the sensor wire cut by the lip on the edge of the brake rotor. Depending on how quickly the rotor wore with the set of pads, you have about 3 mm of material left with the factory setup. Depending on your driving style and the how evenly all the pads wear, you may be able to drive 3000-4000 km without trouble.
The VW OEM brake pads, at least for T1 and T2, are made by Pagid. I use VW OEM or Pagid aftermarket pads (Euro ECE R90 certified) with Zimmermann anti-corrosion coated rotors (German TUV certified). All made in Germany. Check this thread: http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f44/brake-replacement-recommendations-81480.html and this: http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f67/bma-parts-discount-offer-to-ct-members-77604.html
The sensor plastic became brittle and cracked very easily. Buy new sensors before you start. Mine were worn fairly evenly, so when one goes, all go. The following factory pad had about 3 mm of material left when the sensor wire was cut by the lip at about 2 mm (factory rotor. Dealer claimed they -- already worn 1 mm each face -- could take another set of pads, quoted $500 pads and sensors. No thanks.) I am on the third set of Pagids in the front with Zimmermann rotors, looks like I would go past the 1 mm wear limit this time. Next time new pads and rotors.
![Image]()
OEM VW brake pads are made by Pagid and are GG friction rated. Depending on sale, shipping and other parts you buy, you may be able to find VW OEM pads ending up cheaper than aftermarket Pagids. I have used both.
![Image]()
The VW OEM brake pads, at least for T1 and T2, are made by Pagid. I use VW OEM or Pagid aftermarket pads (Euro ECE R90 certified) with Zimmermann anti-corrosion coated rotors (German TUV certified). All made in Germany. Check this thread: http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f44/brake-replacement-recommendations-81480.html and this: http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f67/bma-parts-discount-offer-to-ct-members-77604.html
The sensor plastic became brittle and cracked very easily. Buy new sensors before you start. Mine were worn fairly evenly, so when one goes, all go. The following factory pad had about 3 mm of material left when the sensor wire was cut by the lip at about 2 mm (factory rotor. Dealer claimed they -- already worn 1 mm each face -- could take another set of pads, quoted $500 pads and sensors. No thanks.) I am on the third set of Pagids in the front with Zimmermann rotors, looks like I would go past the 1 mm wear limit this time. Next time new pads and rotors.
OEM VW brake pads are made by Pagid and are GG friction rated. Depending on sale, shipping and other parts you buy, you may be able to find VW OEM pads ending up cheaper than aftermarket Pagids. I have used both.
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PAGID pads with Zimmermanns if you need new rotors and use a good brake shop, not an expensive dealer if you don't do the job yourself.
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