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Many ecu flashes (or tunes) are available, I believe that aftermarket exhausts are also available but I doubt that they make a big difference with the V10...I think I'm going for the chipping option (ecu flash). The net is full of good reviews about them...
 
Too few have been made.

There's too little room under the hood to play around.

It takes 30 hours to R&R the engine/gearbox to access stuff like the turbos.

Most owners have got more sense than to mess around with a very expensive engine!

A good remap will find you an extra 50bhp for ten bucks per horse - THAT is CHEAP!!
 
The market is small in North America for the V-10. Too much development time for the amount of profit involved. Vehicle is engineered within an inch of it's life already with heat management issues under the bonnet without making more heat from more fuel consumption and horsepower. Most americans don't understand german engineering being fully integrated among many systems to be very close to failure limits in original design. The Germans don't leave much margin for making more power in their designs of the drive train.

In other words, from a longevity standpoint, it's a bad idea, when the V-10 is already too expensive to work on and the price of parts on them is astronomical also, for a SUV.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
The market is small in North America for the V-10. Too much development time for the amount of profit involved. Vehicle is engineered within an inch of it's life already with heat management issues under the bonnet without making more heat from more fuel consumption and horsepower. Most americans don't understand german engineering being fully integrated among many systems to be very close to failure limits in original design. The Germans don't leave much margin for making more power in their designs of the drive train.

In other words, from a longevity standpoint, it's a bad idea, when the V-10 is already too expensive to work on and the price of parts on them is astronomical also, for a SUV.
I guess a tune will have to do and my supra will have to continue to be my go getter
 
If I owned a V10, I would ONLY do a tune if my original turbos or the OEM original design ones were about to be replaced with something documented to last longer. There are very few threads on this, and which model turbo to choose, but it is there.

You can be sure that the original turbos are running at their peak efficiency levels.
One may blame the media for making a huge deal and mess out of "turbo lag" over the years, and shoving this down everyones throat, and thus forcing manufacturers to go small turbos for the sake of "zero lag".

Dropping the engine to replace damaged turbo seals, etc, is what kills the magic here, otherwise I'd tell you, go ahead and do it!



 
My v10 is tuned by Malone. Not to increase power, though that was accomplished, but to run effectively and efficiently with the DPFs removed. Now I have no concern over DPF failure, nor late O2 sensors, and the Treg runs more efficiently with smoother response down low.

Not a path for everyone of course but a good path when choosing a great tuner.
 
Has anyone here documented a DPF failure on a V-10 on a stock tuned V-10, or is this a complete non issue? Not even the new jetta's and golfs with 150k miles on them have had dpf failure on tdiclub. Frankly, I think it's a bunch of horse sh*t, supposed dpf failures... it's a mandated requirement for 80,000 mile warranty coverage. If one was worried about effective and efficient, they wouldn't even consider a V-10... a V-6 perhaps. The only thing a V-10 is effective and efficient at is emptying your wallet and your savings account at an alarmingly fast rate with every service, broken part and repair. Like a stripper, fun to date in the beginning, but you know the relationship won't last long term, which is why V-10's have so many previous owners.

My interest in a V-10 is like my interest in a whore... I'd like to hit it, once, hard, to satisfy my curiosity, but afterwards, I had a "meh, been there, done that" mentality. YMMV, though they both will drain you and your wallet in an identical fashion.
 
Niner, I think you are right however a few things:

1. It is possible to check the "loading" of the DPF via VCDS and I believe the interval to check it is 120k miles. I mention this because, to me, this indicates VW/Audi expects them to become clogged in SOME limited instances.

2. Removal of the DPFs allows 06/07 owners to comfortably run non-507 oils. While DPFs aren't widely known for failures (though lets face it, these engines are still young), PD motors are known to have other issues related to inadequate lubrication/inadequate film strength.

3. The tune that comes along with DPF removal also removes code throwing from the later 02 sensors. And of course gets rid of DPF regenerations.

Basically, it returns the V10 TDI to it's original design intent - without DPFs.

...

In regards to the v10, you've been around these parts ALOT more than me. However, for others, I'll just add that the wallet-draining ability of the v10 needs to be put in context of the following:

1. 90% of parts are the same as other T1 Touaregs; stuff that can fail on other Touaregs can fail on the V10 too. Most V10 models are also very loaded up - air suspension, locking diffs, etc. - so they are also the more complicated models.

2. There is almost a complete absence of expertise on these vehicles AND even moreso on these v10 motors. Now layer on that VW dealers are absolutely terrible.

3. It was originally a $65-70k vehicle and has appropriate yearly costs that should be expected. I also own a 2001 e39 m5 which had a very similar original cost and has similar operating expenses - the big difference is that vehicle is far easier to diagnose/DIY/find some experts on.
 
The market is small in North America for the V-10. Too much development time for the amount of profit involved. Vehicle is engineered within an inch of it's life already with heat management issues under the bonnet without making more heat from more fuel consumption and horsepower. Most americans don't understand german engineering being fully integrated among many systems to be very close to failure limits in original design. The Germans don't leave much margin for making more power in their designs of the drive train.

In other words, from a longevity standpoint, it's a bad idea, when the V-10 is already too expensive to work on and the price of parts on them is astronomical also, for a SUV.
VW Dude / Niner,

Well stated. I mistakenly "upgraded" my turbos when I last had the engine out. Since, I have struggled to get the tune correct to compensate for the larger fans and and increased lag... very frustrating.

WHEN I remove the engine again I will go revert to stock turbos.

DPF's: I had the right bank DPF fail around 150K miles. It went into regen mode and basically superheated to melt and destroy all connecting hoses and sensors. I "replaced" them with a modified version and haven't had any issues.

Another frustrating issue is its hunger for thermostats. I am now on my 4th in 210K miles. Fortunately, they always fail "open".
 
VW Dude / Niner,

Well stated. I mistakenly "upgraded" my turbos when I last had the engine out. Since, I have struggled to get the tune correct to compensate for the larger fans and and increased lag... very frustrating.

WHEN I remove the engine again I will go revert to stock turbos.

DPF's: I had the right bank DPF fail around 150K miles. It went into regen mode and basically superheated to melt and destroy all connecting hoses and sensors. I "replaced" them with a modified version and haven't had any issues.

Another frustrating issue is its hunger for thermostats. I am now on my 4th in 210K miles. Fortunately, they always fail "open".
Clean and flush your coolant system, completely, replace all thermostats, and replace coolant with 40% G12 and 60% distilled water, and your thermostats will last much, much longer. NEVER use tap water with your coolant, ever. Way too much minerals in non distilled water.
 
Niner, I think you are right however a few things:

1. It is possible to check the "loading" of the DPF via VCDS and I believe the interval to check it is 120k miles. I mention this because, to me, this indicates VW/Audi expects them to become clogged in SOME limited instances.

2. Removal of the DPFs allows 06/07 owners to comfortably run non-507 oils. While DPFs aren't widely known for failures (though lets face it, these engines are still young), PD motors are known to have other issues related to inadequate lubrication/inadequate film strength.

3. The tune that comes along with DPF removal also removes code throwing from the later 02 sensors. And of course gets rid of DPF regenerations.

Basically, it returns the V10 TDI to it's original design intent - without DPFs.

...

In regards to the v10, you've been around these parts ALOT more than me. However, for others, I'll just add that the wallet-draining ability of the v10 needs to be put in context of the following:

1. 90% of parts are the same as other T1 Touaregs; stuff that can fail on other Touaregs can fail on the V10 too. Most V10 models are also very loaded up - air suspension, locking diffs, etc. - so they are also the more complicated models.

2. There is almost a complete absence of expertise on these vehicles AND even moreso on these v10 motors. Now layer on that VW dealers are absolutely terrible.

3. It was originally a $65-70k vehicle and has appropriate yearly costs that should be expected. I also own a 2001 e39 m5 which had a very similar original cost and has similar operating expenses - the big difference is that vehicle is far easier to diagnose/DIY/find some experts on.
I came so close to picking up a new 2006 V-10 for mid 40k from one of our favorite vendors here in PA. These cars were almost never selling for MSRP, VW misread the US market for these, VW had to give most of them away. Sticker is just a suggested price, the real price on these paid by original owners was for the most part, far, far under MSRP or invoice. VW couldn't give them away.

The car is over engineered, and under supported... period, by VW or anyone here in the USA. They don't hold value or desirability like a Ferrari or a Porsche. VW will stop support of them in 2017, or sooner, for spare parts.
 
Clean and flush your coolant system, completely, replace all thermostats, and replace coolant with 40% G12 and 60% distilled water, and your thermostats will last much, much longer. NEVER use tap water with your coolant, ever. Way too much minerals in non distilled water.
Thank you... I will replace the coolant more often. Oddly, the first 2 T-Stats failed within 80K miles. I have never added anything but distilled water; however, I couldn't verify this never occurred.

Additional: The 507 spec oil is designed in VW's best interest. It is too lite; cams and lifters at 180K miles is too soon with 5k consistent change intervals from new.
 
Thank you... I will replace the coolant more often. Oddly, the first 2 T-Stats failed within 80K miles. I have never added anything but distilled water; however, I couldn't verify this never occurred.

Additional: The 507 spec oil is designed in VW's best interest. It is too lite; cams and lifters at 180K miles is too soon with 5k consistent change intervals from new.
MB 229.51 5w -40 is your solution.... low ash, same as 507.00, with the viscosity of a 5w-40 and the shear strength/protection of your cams.

5W-40 Synthetic Oil | Mobil 1™ ESP Formula M 5W-40

BTW, VW 507.00 is a true 37-38w motor oil, it is thick in the viscosity range for a true 30w oil.

The only oil that wrecks PD motor cams is VW's 0w-30 506.01 oil for the Touareg, which was discontinued long, long ago.
 
It was originally a $65-70k vehicle and has appropriate yearly costs that should be expected. I also own a 2001 e39 m5 which had a very similar original cost and has similar operating expenses - the big difference is that vehicle is far easier to diagnose/DIY/find some experts on.

My daughters 2006 Ranger Rover operating expenses were comparable to the V10. Both experienced expensive repairs; interestingly the Rover had more drive-line issues.
 
MB 229.51 5w -40 is your solution.... low ash, same as 507.00, with the viscosity of a 5w-40 and the shear strength/protection of your cams.

5W-40 Synthetic Oil | Mobil 1™ ESP Formula M 5W-40

BTW, VW 507.00 is a true 37-38w motor oil, it is thick in the viscosity range for a true 30w oil.

The only oil that wrecks PD motor cams is VW's 0w-30 506.01 oil for the Touareg, which was discontinued long, long ago.

Exactly what we switched to after replacing the cams and lifters. I purchased the v10 new and was religious about oil and change frequency. The first few changes were 505.01 until VW upgraded to the 507 spec.

I wish I had taken photos before replacing the cams. The cams and lifters were wrecked! 2 of the lifters had holes from wear and the cams were disgustingly worn round.


My goal is 300K miles out of this truck. It is now in "decreased service" as my oldest daughter has it at college. I still wish i had never changed to the larger turbos.
 
...

In regards to the v10, you've been around these parts ALOT more than me. However, for others, I'll just add that the wallet-draining ability of the v10 needs to be put in context of the following:

1. 90% of parts are the same as other T1 Touaregs; stuff that can fail on other Touaregs can fail on the V10 too. Most V10 models are also very loaded up - air suspension, locking diffs, etc. - so they are also the more complicated models.

2. There is almost a complete absence of expertise on these vehicles AND even moreso on these v10 motors. Now layer on that VW dealers are absolutely terrible.

3. It was originally a $65-70k vehicle and has appropriate yearly costs that should be expected. I also own a 2001 e39 m5 which had a very similar original cost and has similar operating expenses - the big difference is that vehicle is far easier to diagnose/DIY/find some experts on.
Excellent summation.

It's the $20K engine that needs 30 hours to R&R before doing any work or replacing any parts that's the bummer on the one hand but it is also what makes the V10 a real supercar on the other.
 
I wish I could afford the V10 headache/ excitement
I got a warranty and am somewhat of a DIYer. My annual budget is $2k and I've spent about $900 in the first 4 months - but that breaks down as follows:

1. $300 batteries - replacing them myself

2. $100 on oil and oil filter for first oil change

3. $500 mistake on taking it to a VW dealer to get something repaired - won't make that mistake again.

The big fear with V10s is the engine itself. But as far as I know there were some teething problems with the 04 models - and since then they appear to be very reliable engines given proper maintenance.
 
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