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First Official Consolitdated V10 Build Thread

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48K views 118 replies 23 participants last post by  JDUB  
#1 ·
I noticed we don't really have a build thread or a V10 specific area on this site. I know others out there have done things like straight pipe exhaust (minus the front cats). Many others have done a mild tune. Others have done a DPF delete (I don't have those). Others over seas have done water/methanol injection.

Looks like I will be the test bed for many new things on the Treg and I'm here to document it the best I can. For some of the firsts on a v10 and how they react all together.

New upgraded turbos
True straight exhaust
Modified camshafts
Larger injector nozzles.

Here is a thread I started in TDI Club. They have many more knowledgeable members over there and I hope to get this right the first time as I won't be able to afford or justify it later. As i can attest I pretty much have to have the engine out to do many of the things I want to do.

We will see how it all goes and hope others can follow suite.

V10 TDI upgrades - TDIClub Forums
 
#87 ·
Well hopefully there isn't something disconnected or a boost leak somewhere. When the Kittens were clogged he said he blew some boots off. But I think everything on the back side is metal and clamped pretty darn tight. I have a boost gauge that he ran into the interior but he did not hook up. Along with an EGT gauge. Hopefully that will help me diagnose.

He was supposed to call me back yesterday after changing the oil one more time and changing out the fuel filter. Surprise Surprise no call yesterday or today. None the less I'm going to pick it up Friday so hopefully I will be able to diagnose better when I get some more time in it with my VAG COM which admittedly I barely know how to use.
 
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#88 ·
You'll get the hang of the Vag-Com pretty quickly. The guys at Ross Tech are also very helpful in getting the readings you are after.
 
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#89 ·
I made the call and I will be picking it up in the morning. I'm very excited and hoping the turbo lag of which they speak is not that bad.

I'm also told there is a Power Steering leak and hoping one of those additives works to stop it. I had it work well once before so I'm hoping, as the PS requires engine removal to fix. I'm not sure why it is leaking because it wasn't when I brought the car in but things happen and maybe after sitting dry so long a seal dried out. Hoping for the best.

I guess the transmission also leaks (did not leak before) so not sure what is going on there. I'm a little upset about both as I know neither did it before and I did have the car a few months before it went off so I know it is either a factor of their labor or sitting. But what can you do I'm sure it is nothing that is their fault from neglect...these things just happen. But hopefully it is just a pan seal from them setting it on the shop floor for the past half a year. If not again I've had luck with snake oil in the past shoring up seals.

More to follow Saturday when I get some time behind the wheel and the VAG COM.
 
H
#91 ·
any luck with VCDS?
i've looked and looked on the forum and cant find any straightforward ways to graph things like boost and turbo vein position vs called for boost numbers. this is probably what you need to watch if you want to see your new turbos truly at work.

the "list of measured value blocks" doesnt help much for the V10. I also need to take more time and get proficient at VagCom

very interested in results. hope those leaks are at bay.... nothing is more aggravating!!
 
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#92 ·
PM CustomSpooling (Aidian). He and I were going to Skype together and do a learning session with VAG-COM to map out some of the above parameters on the V10, but I was never able to find the appropriate time to connect. Sadly, I haven't found any controller mapping for the V10 that have been translated into English. There is more than enough data coming from the various channels, but I have no map to know what goes where.
 
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#93 ·
would a PM be necessary?
there is already a thread started about it.

how excited is Ross-Tech to get involved?

it seems to me that we paid for that support in the exorbitant price for the gizmo. otherwise i could have saved $300 buck for the ebay cheapy one.
 
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#94 ·
Would that be my thread? Like anything else it just takes time to sit and document the values assuming that you have a handle on what the channel mapping are to begin with. Ross-Texh usually relies on published values which seem to be more commonly published in German, and with a scarce engine like the v10, translating and publishing it probably hasn't been at the top of there list.

I haven't had need to call and ask since I have largely had no problems with my engine, but if you can, call Ross-Tech.
 
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#95 ·
Sorry I have not updated. Been very busy at work and with other things.

I haven't noticed any leaks so that is good. I added a bit of stop leak to the PS. But then again the plastic skid plates are back on so maybe it is pooling in there and hasn't dropped yet. But so far so good.

I have been working thru a few issues. On the drive home my Steering Angle sensor light came on. I re-calibrated this last night with the VAG COM and it has not come back on yet so we will see. Hopefully I don't have to replace that $485 part.

Once arriving home the check engine light came on. It was already very sluggish but this was horrible. Would barely accelerate above 3K RPM. On startup and while cold if I give it any fuel it will surge/hesitate. Almost like it is cycling the EGR or not getting fuel. 1 second on 1 second off for about a minute after start up while cold. I'm assuming this is EGR or MAF or a something to do with my O2 sensors but not sure. I ran thru some diagnostics I found on TDI Club but most of them checked out fine.

I spent some time last night with the VAGCOM and I have some boost pressure signal and EGR issues. I tried testing them but am not to smart on the program yet. I went and logged some WOT from 3rd gear runs and it was pitiful. I cleared the DTC and went out for another run.

It was a BEAST..but still not right. All engine code lights stayed off though throughout the runs. It was lathargic unless I left off the throttle and then punched it again. Almost like double clutching with the accelerator. Then it would really take off and once it hit 3100 RPM it would REALLY launch and the front of the car would lift off the ground. Shows I'm only pulling around 17-18 PSI at full boost though (from VAGCOM and converted from milibars)

Thoughts? I think I need to change out my EGR valve but I'm sure there is more testing I can do...just not sure how to do it.
 
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#96 ·
remember, all those controllers are adaptive. if there are no codes, you are probably good and just need to log some miles so the readiness programs all turn green. get that O2 sensor good and hot and blast out those cats. .

the stock program will limit boost so i wouldnt expect much more. get it smoothed out and you are READY for a big boost tune. WOOOHOOOOO!

did you say you put in a mechanical boost gauge?
 
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#97 ·
I have the thermocouple in but I do not have the boost gauge drilled yet. I also don't have the gauge wired up either. I am leaving for vacation for 2 weeks as well and won't have time to do it until I get back unless I find some time after work and the kids go to bed..(not likely).

I ended up gutting the kittens so they are clean as a whistle. If I remember right one of the 02 sensors was bad (going to get them electronically fixed). I also read a very interesting thread on MAFs. Sadly if I remember right they are a pain in the ass to remove but I think I can get the connector off easily and I've heard dielectric grease on the connector makes a big difference on some of the TDI's.

I wish I could figure out how to individually test each EGR for each bank. I did some sort of MAF test and on the high end it read within spec (info from TDI club that was for a 4 cylinder car) but read to high on the lower end by a significant margin.
 
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#98 ·
you can pull the vacuum hose off the EGR and it will not open. eventually it will set a code but it gives you time to drive without it (them). plug the vacuum tube when you pull it off.

you gutted ALL the cats?
 
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#100 ·

Sorry for the crappy video. I was taking it while driving in the neighborhood on my way to work. I plan to log it on the computer tomorrow if possible.

This is a video I took this morning of the problem I was talking about. You can see the RPM jumping approx 100 rpm really quick when given any acceleration. Only seems to last a few minutes and clears up. Also it must only be my drivers side bank as I see large puffs of smoke in conjunction with the rpm jumping out of my left tail pipe. Maybe I can't see it out of my right one but I believe it is only the drivers side.

Anyone else think this is EGR?
 
#104 ·
Ohh yeah. I move every couple of years. I forgot where I am. Actually hoping to get stationed in upstate NY, Colorado, or Alaska next so that and the Webasto heater, heated seats and steering wheel will come in handy.

But for now I'm enjoying the dual A/C units in the Touareg...just wish it had A/C seats....I need to find a way to punch some holes in my seats and run a hose up there :).

I think only the EGR on the left side of my engine is bad. Just don't have time to work on the darn thing and we leave for the big Trip Sunday. Hopefully in a couple of more weeks.
 
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#105 ·
you should be able to test the EGR valves with a vacuum hand pump.
take the intake hoses off and look in there while you pump it down, the plunger will move back away from the seat to open under vacuum and should close when you vent or release the vacuum.
if they work ok with a hand pump, leave the vacuum impulse line off so they stay closed, plug the end of the vacuum line and run it to see if it still acts up. reset all your DTCs first.
 
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#106 ·
Not sure if I have a pump..I will have to see. I use to have mighty vac but not sure where all of the attachments are and it never seemed to work worth a darn. I hope that fixes it. I have an extra two EGRs so if it is bad I will just spend the hour and change it out.
 
H
#107 ·
the hand pump test will tell you if the problem is the actual EGR valve, but there could still be other issues upstream, like maybe your mechanic left vacuum hoses disconnected or connected them wrong or damaged a control valve also.

good luck
 
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#108 ·
Well I've been working on the car a bit now that I've had it back. Put in two new batteries and fixed a few small things here and there. Had two cracks in the pipes for the EGR vacuum. Fixed that and the EGR's seem to be working better. Tested them with my mighty vac and they both operated fine.

Fixed the steering angle sensor by recalibrating and it works fine. Got it tuned by Malone Tuning. Deleted the O2 sensors and turned the EGR all the way down all the time. The power difference isn't amazing but it is much better and 99% of my engine troubles are now gone. Made it all the way home no problem 3 hour drive. Started it up today and no engine light ever but it went into limp mode sorta again. Cleared the DTC and was just fine. Also it like double clutching. I have to push the accelerator down, let off and push again for it to really launch. Otherwise if I stomp on it or only push it down once it will barely accelerate.

We tested the MAF and it read fine but I don't know which one it was reading so who knows if one is bad or not. Ohh and very little to no smoke ever.

I installed the boost line today and got it routed in the truck. I just need to find a place to mount the gauge and a place to find switched power. I'm hoping to use one of the fuses under the seat but need to find out which one of those is switched power and then. We will see how that goes.

Sorry nothing exciting to report. Maybe it is an animal and I was just expecting more from it. Still need to compare it to a stock one that has always worked.
 
H
#109 ·
sounds like a success. it may take awhile for the ecu to adapt to the new turbos...

did Malone give you more boost? you would notice a huge increase in top end I would think. but as far as off idle and downshifting performance, Im not all that impressed with mine either when it was working. my favorite thing to do was get rolling along in third gear and floor it aobut 1500 RPMs in manual mode and feel that torque. then do it with a trailer on and it feels the same.. thats why the car impresses me! but i never compared it with the acceleration of my old 32 valve 928. even though the HP is identical, car weighs twice as much... TDIs fall on their face at 4000 rpm.

Im really dragging my feet getting my Touareg torn apart... just got slammed with a major repair on the F350 and my guts turn when I thin about spending more money on cars... Ive started a thread asking for advice on the best way to market a Touareg with bad turbos. any-whooo...

very interested in boost numbers when you get the gauge done. Congratulations. you also managed to find someone who will do EGR shutoffs on the V10... far-out!!!
 
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#110 ·
Funny that we owned the same vehicles except I had a F250 CC Short Bed.

Yep towing is great. My Treg weight in at 6900 lbs and the trailer 3100 for camping. So right in at 10k lbs total and got 19MPG prior to the tune and traveling at 70 MPH the whole way. Really nothing amazing though as my dads crew cab 4x4 dually ford diesel gets that. On the way home after the tune and no trailer around 23-24 if I remember right. I need to figure out why it goes into limp mode and no codes. Very annoying. Again only happened once since the tune but one to many times. I have an engine oil leak and need to pull the cover and find it. I think it is valve cover gaskets. If I can't find them for less than 200 for both of them forget it...it can leak for now.

Think we are buying a house for when I get out of the Military back in our home town. Probably going to sell the Touareg before this deployment so we can just pay cash for the house and have it paid off so I don't have to worry about a mortgage when it comes time to get out.

If anyone is interested let me know. Car is awesome but now that I have everything I have ever wanted I realize I'm more of an old crappy truck kinda guy and my wife can keep her Mercedes.
 
H
#111 ·
just a heads up on unexplained limp mode... I found out that the car does a miserable stall if you happen to have your foot on the brake pedal and jam the accelerator at the same time with even an infinitesimal overlap of the two actions... I hate it! it takes several of the longest seconds you can imagine to recover, but it feels just like limp home mode and usually there is a semi aimed right for you.

a true limp mode wont recover until you restart... I dont know which one you are experiencing...

so Im not the only one experiencing super-car overload... haha. the V10 TDI will definitely cure a mans love for (sorta)exotic cars. its like that girl you dated in college who was a 10... it was great for a while, then you cant afford the maintenance!!! so you end up with a 9.9 who is practical.... (i think that was a good save, maybe not... danger, danger...)

So Im driving a free Honda Prelude while the Treg is up on my lift. not quite a crappy old truck but almost. Im sure I will fall in love with my Treg all over again when I get that first drive without the check engine light and smoke and whopping 28 horsepower launches in limpmode....

its only saving grace will be driving it for free on waste oil, just maybe it will pay me back if nothing else breaks.
 
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#113 ·
haywood801 said:
so Im not the only one experiencing super-car overload... haha. the V10 TDI will definitely cure a mans love for (sorta)exotic cars. its like that girl you dated in college who was a 10... it was great for a while, then you cant afford the maintenance!!! so you end up with a 9.9 who is practical.... (i think that was a good save, maybe not... danger, danger...)



its only saving grace will be driving it for free on waste oil, just maybe it will pay me back if nothing else breaks.
Click to expand...
More than a "good save": a 9.9 who is practical is off the scale!

As for "waste oil": are you talking cooking oil here?
 
#112 ·
I drove my Powerstroke for almost 100K miles on WVO and no issues. My dad and brother use WMO blended with diesel and a touch of gas and no issues either.

Yeah it wasn't a crappy old truck but I've had just as much fun in a 1968 Power wagon I bought for $500. That wouldn't have made a good tow vehicle with the family for thousands of miles on end like this thing does. It drives amazing and I've never driven a car with such a good turning radius. The turn radius is truely amazing.

My limp mode happens when I give it a slow and steady acceleration while driving down the highway. Does not fix itself when turning off. Once quick clear of the DTC though and it is instantly back to its good old self.
 
H
#114 ·
I say 9.9 and practical because thats who I ended up with... :)

the same problem occurs with pretty girls as cars though, they break too easy. my poor love is on her second failed back surgery. and as a Major in the army, she has given more than her part to help make this place better. shes my hero!

Ill be happy to start a thread on waste oil seperately. Ive been using a blend of motor oil, ATF, dielectric oil and good old #2 that has proven success for my needs.
 
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