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Several photographs from this weekend’s original automatic transmission fluid (Why is it not called simply automatic transmission oil when it is an oil?!) change on a 2017 7P6 after 79 256 km. Photograph 1 shows the new and used filter. Photograph 2 shows what was at the bottom of the oil pan – a thin layer of thick black non-metal substance with various metal particles and shavings in it. Photograph 3 shows the clean oil pan and magnets. Photograph 4 shows the total volume of drained ATF – 8,2 l. Photograph 5 shows a thin layer of used ATF with metal particles and shavings in it.

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For those who know that when changing ATF in the Volkswagen way, one should expect to drain only some 6,5 l, the trick is to leave the vehicle unused for a month and lift it gradually on one side at a time when putting it on stands.
 
For those who know that when changing ATF in the Volkswagen way, one should expect to drain some 6,5 l, the trick is to leave the vehicle unused for a month and lift it gradually on one side at a time when putting it on stands.
I am not understanding this part, and have so far not heard of anyone doing the part in bold.
 
6.5L fluid drain is only for drain and refill.... when you do pan drop and filter change as you did, you're looking at 7.5-9L
Since you put 8.2L back in it, it sounds like you're in the correct range.
No, that is not what I see on Page 7 of VW’s 8-speed Automatic Gearbox 0C8 Workshop Manual, Edition 02.2018. What I see there is 3,5 – 4 l without the sump removed and 6 l with the sump removed:

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What is the source of your figures?
 
No, that is not what I see on Page 7 of VW’s 8-speed Automatic Gearbox 0C8 Workshop Manual, Edition 02.2018. What I see there is 3,5 – 4 l without the sump removed and 6 l with the sump removed:
So if that's the correct info, why did you drain out a different amount? :unsure:
Photograph 4 shows the total volume of drained ATF – 8,2 l.
 
A huge shout out to Gnits as his post for Transmission, Differential, and Transfer Case fluid changes for first generation Touareg’s was spot on. I am updating this for the second generation. Specifically, I own a 2015 VW Touareg TDI with 127,000 miles. I am the second owner and the engine oil was changed at 5k-7k intervals while the transmission, differentials, and transfer case were never changed. I changed them this past weekend and I wanted to share my research and experience with other owners.

With that said I am using Gnits write up on the first generation as my boilerplate: (Automatic transmission, transfer case, front and rear differential fluid changes) and making adjustments, as there are a few different procedures and fluids to get the job done. I performed the fluid changes it in my driveway over a period of 3 hours with my brother in law who is a heavy diesel mechanic (I am not a mechanic but can turn wrenches). We used a jack and two stands – pretty basic.

Below you’ll find some relevant information I gathered about the transmission, transfer case, front and rear differential fluid change procedures in the last few weeks. I'm posting this compilation here for convenience and easier discovery for others who are interested in doing these, or at least in learning about them.

Specifics to my 2015 VW Touareg TDI
Model Code: 7P62K8
Engine Code: CNRB
Transmission Code: NXJ

Automatic transmission fluid change


First - here is a link to some VW manuals for performing this and other maintenance on your Touareg. Repair & Workshop manuals

This is an 8-speed transmission unit. Servicing consists of replacing the fluid strainer (filter), changing the fluid, and replacing some gaskets and bolts as necessary.

To complete the transmission fluid change procedure you'll need a VAG-COM diagnostic device that will allow you to keep an eye on the transmission fluid temperature. Without that you won't be able to fill the right amount of fluid into the transmission, which might result in permanent damage to the unit.

There is only one drain plug in the pan. Once removed you can remove the fill tube to get more fluid out before dropping the pan. Mine was stripped so I had more fluid in the pan when I dropped it.

Clean the pan and magnets, remove the strainer and replace with new strainer, and use new gasket when installing the pan.

When filling the transmission use either a hand pump, gravity feed, or an electric pump. I started using gravity feed and after one liter we moved to the electric pump. I highly recommend this – it will save you time and your hands will thank you.

Add more fluid than your removed – as you’ll use VAG-COM to read the transmission fluid temp and then remove the drain plug so the fluid normalizes per VW Spec – it just drains out until it drips out. Just make sure the car is level when you do this.

The full transmission maintenance service set consists of the following parts – these were provided by my local VW Dealer:

0C8 325 435 - transmission strainer, 1 piece
WHT 000 313 - transmission filter bolt, 4 pieces
0C8 321 371 - transmission pan gasket, 1 piece
WHT 005 511 - transmission pan bolts, 11 pieces
0C8 321 181 - transmission fill plug washer, 1 piece
G 055 540 A2 - transmission fluid, 9-13 liters (depending on drain level)


Transfer case fluid change

Transfer cases are generally the same in second generation Touareg’s in the USA. To my knowledge there is only an ON ROAD and OFF ROAD selection in the 7P that was sold in the USA for the second generation.

Servicing the transfer case consists of changing the fluid and replacing the drain and fill plug bolts.

Remove the fill plug first, only then remove the drain plug. After draining clean off the magnet and replace plug. Fill the transfer case until fluid just starts to come out of the fill plug.

VW is known to not fill these from the factory so don’t worry if you put in more than your drained.

NOTE: This is a different fluid than that used in the differentials and transmission and it is only used in the transfer case.

G 052 536 A2 - transfer case fluid, 0.85 liters

Differentials fluid change


There are two separate differentials in 2nd gen Touareg’s. It is my understanding that the front and the rear differentials available in the USA on 2nd generation Touareg’s are the "non-locking" version.

If you have a locking differential you WILL NEED different fluids than the non-locking ones, because of the clutches in them, which need to "stick" when engaged. This write-up is for NON LOCKING DIFFERENTIALS.

Remove the fill plug first, only then remove the drain plug. After draining clean off the magnet and replace plug. Fill the differential until fluid just starts to come out of the fill plug.

VW is known to not fill these from the factory so don’t worry if you put in more than your drained.


Non-locking differential service fluid:
G 052 145 S2 - non-locking differential fluid 75W-90

Fluid volumes
:
Front differentials take usually about 0.8 liters of fluid, while rear differentials take around .9 liters of fluid. However, depending on the completeness of your drain, the amount of fluid you can actually put in them might be slightly less.


Fluid change procedures


The fluid change procedure for automatic transmission, transfer case and differentials is described in the Touareg workshop manuals. Even though the procedures (especially for the differentials) are fairly simple, they must be followed exactly to avoid damage. The services manuals are downloadable from Volkswagen’s official ErWin page. You'll need to pay for a (limited-time) "subscription" to access the manuals, but this will only cost a few bucks, and will allow you to download all the manuals at once. I suggest you do that (i.e. download all manuals), so, you can browse them later any time you need.

For the record I did not use the manuals for for my fluid changes.

To complete the transmission fluid change procedure you'll need a VAG-COM diagnostic device that will allow you to keep an eye on the transmission fluid temperature. Without that you won't be able to fill the right amount of fluid into the transmission, which might result in permanent damage to the unit.

The transfer case, and front/rear differential fluid change require no VAG-COM device.


Fluid change intervals


Volkswagen itself makes no mention at what intervals you're supposed to change the transmission/differential fluids, and actually claims these boxes to be "lifetime fills" or "sealed for life". However, "lifetime" in this context only means "for the duration of the warranty period", and depending on how you're using your car, you might want to replace the fluids sooner or later. Opinions differ on when this should be or is ideal, but the Porsche Cayenne's technical manual (which car is using essentially the same drivetrain as the Touareg) advises to replace the fluids after 16 years or 240.000 kms / 160.000 miles. However, if you're towing, off-roading, driving on mountain roads frequently or living in a very cold climate, the wear and tear increases on these parts, and because of that you might want to change fluids more frequently.


General remarks regarding fluid changes


Bolts and gaskets might be reused after cleaning, but this is not recommended. Failure to renew these might lead to leaks, or in the case of the transmission filter also to transmission malfunction.

Always start fluid changes by removing the fill plugs/bolts first, because sometimes they will be seized and/or you will not be able to remove them without additional tools and/or some penetrator fluid.

"Aftermarket" / 3rd party fluids


Instead of the original Volkswagen fluids, several 3rd party or aftermarket fluids can be used that meet the same specs. However, always make sure that the fluid you're using is not only the same viscosity, but also actually conforms to the specific tolerances listed above! Failure to do so might lead to shortened lifespan or possibly fatal damage to the serviced units/differentials.

That said there's no guarantee for anything, and in the end it's up to you who you trust.

I spoke with a few aftermarket manufactures regarding what fluids would work in my 2015 VW Touareg TDI. The following is a summation of my findings that met the specs/tolerances of the original VW fluids listed above. There are other fluids that will work; these are just the ones that I researched.

G 055 540 A2 (automatic transmission fluid, 9-13 liters needed):

Liqui Moly Top Tec ATF 1800
Ravenol ATF T-WS Lifetime
Pentosin ATF1-LV

I used Liqui Moly Top Tec ATF 1800 for the transmission.

G 052 536 A2 (transfer case fluid, <1 liter needed):

I did not find a suitable replacement for this after talking with multiple manufactures. I used OEM VW fluid for the transfer case.


G 052 145 S2 (front differential fluid, <1 liters/needed):

Liqui Moly High Performance Gear Oil GL4+ SAE 75W-90
Ravenol VSG SAE 75W-90

I used Ravenol VSG SAE 75W90 for the front differential.



G 052 145 S2 (rear differential fluid, approx. 0.9 liters/needed):

Ravenol VSG SAE 75W-90

I used Ravenol VSG SAE 75W90 for the rear differential.



Aftermarket replacement parts


Instead of the original VW parts you might also opt to use aftermarket ones which are readily available. These are the aftermarket parts I used and I had no fitment issues.

0C8 325 435 (transmission strainer):

Vaico V10-0435

Other aftermarket manufacturers:
Meyle
Topran

0C8 321 371 (oil sump gasket):

Vaico V10-2285

Other aftermarket manufacturers:
Meyle
Topran


Disclaimer: Even though I went out of my way to verify every bit of information here, obviously I cannot take any responsibility for them being correct. So, always make sure to double-check everything you read. The transmission and the axles are very expensive parts of your Touareg, so, if you mess up something in them, it will cost you. Better safe than sorry!

Thanks for the writeup!
 
FYI Drain Plug, Pan Bolts, and filter screws do not need to be replaced at change.

Also note that Aftermarket filters come with wrong sized oring, make sure you buy OEM oring when ordering aftermarket filter.
Ive been replacing my oil drain plug every oil change because I always seem to round it out a little bit when torqueing to spec. Luckily there is a lip that I could grab with some locking pliers.
 
Ive been replacing my oil drain plug every oil change because I always seem to round it out a little bit when torqueing to spec. Luckily there is a lip that I could grab with some locking pliers.
Not being impressed with an Allen head when they require a fair bit of torque to remove, I changed to a hex bolt at my first oil change. I can certainly see using a new one every time if a person wanted to stick with Allens.
 
Not being impressed with an Allen head when they require a fair bit of torque to remove, I changed to a hex bolt at my first oil change. I can certainly see using a new one every time if a person wanted to stick with Allens.
Odd, on my '11 it is a hex head bolt. Did they change them from earlier years on the '11?
 
Not being impressed with an Allen head when they require a fair bit of torque to remove, I changed to a hex bolt at my first oil change. I can certainly see using a new one every time if a person wanted to stick with Allens.
I finally ordered a fumoto valve that allegedly works with thr T3. It came a day late so it will have to go on next time around.
 
I checked ETKA as far as i can tell it was always the same plug (WHT005510)
Ever since my first oil change when acquiring my '11 it's been a Hex head. Odd. :unsure:
 
Just called vw dealer placed an order for front rear differential fluids and transfer case , talked to technician he told me that I should be fine with 2 litters of fluid for front and rear , he said if I don’t use new plugs it’s ok just make sure put some loktite , than I asked him specifically for transmission fluid he told me that on 184000 miles I wouldn’t have touch since it’s working ok , he said that they had couple problems with ppl wanted to change and then transmission god bad after changin new fluids , so technician recommended don’t do it and let it be for now
There can be a shred of truth to this in some cases. In older transmissions that have a lot of varnish build up inside them, changing to new fluid with fresh detergent additives can sometimes loosen deposits & cause them to break free, then plug passages in the transmission. This was a genuine issue in some American cars, back in the 1980's, but I have not come across any recent instances of this sort of failure. Perhaps the newer generations of fluids don't produce the same varnish issues in the first place? Perhaps that is why we now have Dexron IV & Mercon III? Perhaps the reformulations have eliminated these issues? These are small truths & large conjectures on my part, so treat them with a grain of salt.

That being said, I do plan to change my fluid in the near future. After reading several threads, I think that I am going to go with Liqui Moly Top Tec 1800. The spec's claim to be compliant with the VW standard & I can get 20 liters for less than $200 USD.


Aisin Warner AW-1, BMW 83 22 0 142 516, BMW 83 22 2 152 426, BMW 83 22 2 289 720, BMW 83 22 2 305 396, BMW 83 22 2 305 397, BMW 83 22 2 355 599, BMW M-1375.4, Fiat 9.55550-AV5, Ford Mercon LV, Honda ATF 3.1, Honda ATF DW-1, Honda Typ 3.0, Hyundai SP-IV, Hyundai SP-IV-RR, Isuzu ATF WSI, JASO 1A-LV, JWS 3324 (Aisin Warner), Land Rover TYK 500050, Mazda ATF FZ, MB 236.12, MB 236.14, Mitsubishi Dia Queen ATF-MA1, Mitsubishi Dia Queen ATF-PA, Nissan AT-Matic S Fluid, Nissan Matic P, Toyota WS, VW G 055 005, VW G 055 162, VW G 055 540, VW G 060 162
 
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