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DrGoodwrench

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
There seems to be a vast range of diagnostic pointers from members here about particular charging concerns that some of us V10 owners experience.

I'd like to put an end to it. I am a ASE Certified Mechanic and also a GM Certified Mechanic so I have somewhat of a grasp on the technical/mechanical operation of automobiles.

My concern that got here:
Noticed the Air Conditioning no longer put out COLD air. It wasn't warm either, just HOT air. It was 104 degrees here in Phoenix that day; which the Touareg usually has no issues cooling the cab down.

I immediately blamed the AC Compressor clutch. Continued driving and a message came up on the DIC, "Consumer Electronics Turned Off." That right there threw a red flag in my face, I must have a charging/battery issue. I glanced over to the factory Voltage Meter, it was hovering around 12.5 plus/minus 0.5 volt. Remembering that there's two batteries in this land-yatch of a vehicle, I then blamed the rear battery. (Front one under driver seat is one year old, Duracell AGM Platinum)

Pulled the rear panel, inspected the battery, it was 3 years old and the sides were bulging indicating the cells were expanding and near failure/possibly failed. As preventative maintenance, I replaced the rear battery to a Duracell AGM Platinum. Fired the vehicle up, same issue, Low voltage! I came on the forum and read for some related issues but didn't find a definitive answer.

Drove the vehicle home from work and noticed the voltage would move slightly up the higher the RPM's. Clearly correlating to engine RPM/Generator speed, I knew I had an issue with the Generator/Alternator. I called the dealership and got a price on some parts. Generator was $680 and some various couplers and belts needed for the job were $50 together. Luckily there's a local generator rebuilding shop near by that'll repair the generator at a much lower price so I opted out of the factory generator and ordered the couplers only.

Onto the R&R, I realized these V10's are scary and a giant pain in the rear. I don't care, I've done MUCH more difficult repairs in my life. I've replaced the passenger side tandem pump from up top, pain, but do-able.

I did not take photos during the process but I will update this thread with pics as I assemble. I will also walk ANYONE through this procedure. Just for a quick overview on what to remove.

Require 10mm Socket, 13mm Socket, 16mm Wrench, 6mm Allen, 5mm Allen, 30Torx, Tripe Square socket set, pliers, hook tool for connectors and hoses.

Intake tubes to throttle bodies.
Throttle bodies.
EGR hard vacuum tubes.
EGR pipes from EGR Cooler to EGR valves.
EGR pipes from EGR Cooler to Exhaust manifold EGR tubes.
EGR Valves
EGR Heater assembly with top actuators intact
Intake Manifolds (BE CAREFUL OF GLOWPLUG WIRES)
Fuel rails (bolts are tough to loosen, be careful. They dont come out completely, just loosen all the way)
Then the four Bolts for the generator are easily accessible!

Lift the REAR of the alternator which is facing the front of the vehicle and pull upward. The coupling sleeve has enough slack to do so.

Reassembly will begin once I get this generator to the rebuilders. Should be a couple days before I go back together.







 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
So I got a call back from my local generator/starter rebuilders. They cannot get parts for this generator. He said the rotor is shot... So I went ahead and ordered a new VW unit. Should be here by Thursday. Went ahead and ordered new intake manifold gaskets as well.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Did you have a delco or hitachi generator? I had to replace the one in my 2004 and could not get repair parts for the Delco.....
I had the hitachi generator. Weird how they had no replacement parts for it. Very upsetting but I;m not surprised..


Have you been able to put the new generator back in?

Interested in how it went as I'm probably going to have to do the same soon... :-(
Sorry, I got busy driving the car LOL.

Yes, all went well, hardest part was probably the intake manifold bolts and the fuel rail bolts. Trying not to strip them can be difficult due to their angle and the head of the bolt. Allens and Torx aren't very heavy duty, especially at an angle.

Aside from that, it took a full day of driving to bring the voltage up to a steady 14v.

Let me know if you need any help.
 
Sorry, I got busy driving the car LOL.

Yes, all went well, hardest part was probably the intake manifold bolts and the fuel rail bolts. Trying not to strip them can be difficult due to their angle and the head of the bolt. Allens and Torx aren't very heavy duty, especially at an angle.

Aside from that, it took a full day of driving to bring the voltage up to a steady 14v.

Let me know if you need any help.
Thanks for the offer... :)

Quick question... Seems the alternator is cooled using the car's coolant... Do you have to flush the cooling system completely when you replace it?
 
Mine went out -- same problem. 2nd time, first owner had to replace it. it's a 2004 V10
Arg... plus I have a lot of smoke coming out the right side (engine bay), dual pump?
Electrical on this car is a nightmare. It keeps eating the front battery. Started after the button locks on the door handles stopped working.
Otherwise it's awesome
 
The stuck buttons report the doors are unlocked. This prevents the electrical system from "going to sleep." Thus your 24 hour battery drain. Some posters have simply snipped the wires rather than replace door handles.
 
ah ha! Wondered about that.. read about kessy going bad but yeah stuck button makes sense.
I wonder if there is a central spot to clip wires rather ripping open the doors.

Found a place that has rebuilt alternators for $192, but $384 core fee. So I might buy a core from a wrecking yard for $90, thus giving me spare to play with...
 
Just had the alternator replaced today on my 2005 V10 tdi with 99,500 miles with a remanufactured one from Germany. Both batteries are now finally charging at 14 volts.

Here are some pics I managed to get in between the all the engine oil, antifreeze and diesel flying about.

Perhaps Admin would add them to Dr Goodwrench's post if it will benefit people.

The alternator is a Delphi so the part number is for that brand only.

Coupler

238595


Delphi 1 of 2

238596


Delphi 2 of 2

238597


Out 1

238598


Out 2

238599


The banjo bolt to the left of the coupler had only one washer in place when it was disassembled today. The mechanic said there should have been one top and bottom. That would explain the oil leak.

Two copper crush washers have now been fitted.

In 1

238600


In 2

238601
 
I think i might have to go this route too, if my warranty company pulls a fast one. Few questions:
  • Any parts need to be pre ordered for reassembly, like new manifold or rail bolts, manifold gaskets, etc
  • Do we have to take the filter housing off?
  • What is the sequence for disassembling various parts?
  • Do we need to drain the entire coolant?

Would appreciate feedback.
 
Say, about that VW supplied flex coupler for big bucks, like 150 plus. Gates makes them for VW ( therefore it’s called a Gates coupler) . The Gates coupler is @ partsgeek.com for 54 bucks. Same part no VW on it , so save some green. Peace Togwotee
 
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