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My understanding is if you use anything other than the VW/Audi stuff you need to drain it completely and replace it with what you want to use. Do not mix is my understanding. I don't have the reasoning behind it, just remember reading it here.
 
Are you replacing all of your coolant or just want some to top up?


If the latter, then note your car should not be using any coolant at all.


Stick with VW if just buying a top up bottle.


There are threads on here about alternatives if draining and refilling.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
I actually just purchased it. Picked it up 3 states away because its what i wanted. However, when i started it first thing in morning, coolant light came on and it said check level. It just needs to be topped off.
 
I actually just purchased it. Picked it up 3 states away because its what i wanted. However, when i started it first thing in morning, coolant light came on and it said check level. It just needs to be topped off.

I think you have a problem.


And don't just use tap water either!
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Ok. What test or what have you should i have performed to find an issue if there is one. I figured id tackle issue i know i can rectify, and worry about bigger issue after first is eliminated. Ive read the manual just as i have every other. Ive NEVER read one that says buy your aftermarket parts at Napa. They all say use only OE stuff. I was trying to see if others have bought other products.
 
No one is suggesting that you don't rectify the issue.
Obviously, the first step is to top up your fluid so that you have sufficient cooling and you don't harm your motor.
Everyone is saying use OEM stuff because you're "mixing" types...... not all fluids play along nicely... the last thing you want is to wreck the coolant's design properties (everything from heat transfer, to lubrication, to corrosion resistance, etc).

Next, inspect your vehicle.... clearly you either have a leak in the system and it's seeping\leaking out, or it's an internal issue (such as a cracked head, gasket, water pump, etc) and the fluid is getting into your combustion chamber or leaking out somewhere, etc.

Depending on how severe the issue is, it will be easier or harder to diagnose. If it's getting into your cylinders, you should theoretically be able to smell it and\or it should throw a CEL, unless it's very, very small\slow. You may also find it in your oil, or you could find oil in your coolant, etc. There are many, many possibilities, so it's hard for us to guide you until you provide more details based on what you already know.
 
My suggestion, take it to the dealer or a indy that has knowledge of these and have it looked at Plain and simple.
Spend a few bucks to make sure there is nothing seriously wrong with it, such as a Head Gasket. Check oil filler cap and make sure it is clean.

Do you smell coolant? Do you see coolant?

Could also have been an improper replacement amount from whomever did it last. Could also be a warped head from overheating it. Could be a simple hose leaking or overflow tank leaking or cap not sealing properly, waterpump or cracked radiator.

There are so many scenarios here but just topping off without figuring out why it's low will lead to a waste of coolant. Always use OEM coolant. No additives either like BG stuff they want to sell you at dealers. Distilled water, always mixed to proper ratio.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Understood and appreciated. Thank you all for your help. She has an appointment next week at Volkswagen dealership. In meantime, mechanic said top off with distilled water. Mark it and see if level goes down. They'll check everything you all mentioned when they see it
 
Correct advice from your mechanic.

Fingers crossed for you.
 
A small amount of fluid loss over years / every 30,000 miles is nothing to be concerned about. We are heating water above the point of boiling. Water Vapor wants to escape. Small loss amounts can be topped off with distilled water.

Now, if you are actively losing coolant, then we have a problem. The point of normal loss (which should be really small imo) vs too much is subjective.
 
A small amount of fluid loss over years / every 30,000 miles is nothing to be concerned about. We are heating water above the point of boiling. Water Vapor wants to escape. Small loss amounts can be topped off with distilled water.

Now, if you are actively losing coolant, then we have a problem. The point of normal loss (which should be really small imo) vs too much is subjective.
It's a sealed system.
His light is on, meaning it's a significant loss.
The boiling point has been altered due to ratio of the mixture... He's not just running h2o

He needs to both worry and fix it before it turns into a bigger issue.
 
I actually just purchased it. Picked it up 3 states away because its what i wanted. However, when i started it first thing in morning, coolant light came on and it said check level. It just needs to be topped off.
Curious about how low it is or to restate, how much it needed to be back at full again.

Our problem here is we don't know prior history. Either the owner or a mechanic needs to look over everything. If something wrong is found, fix it. But, sometimes nothing will be found.

Either way, I would check the fluid level once every two weeks for a few months when you get the vehicle back. If the fluid stays where it is supposed to, then go back to regular check-ups (which on the fluid level is almost never). Once a year check or at oil changes would be fine.

PS: Look over the weep hole in the water pump. This is probably the #1 coolant leak spot for VW's. The water cooled egr valve (for those who have them) is the other big leak spot.
 
The OP said he changed the fluid. Its not unusual after a heat cycle in the coolant system after changing it, for a bit of air to be displaced that was not bled out of the system when the coolant change process happened. Having done this on v6 tdi's many, many times, I have experienced this almost every time - especially of not strictly following the correct bleed sequence.
***Edit*** I read the OP's post #2 incorrectly. Regardless, what I said above regarding bleeding holds...... but I suppose its not necessarily the case here!



I would not be concerned until you have to top it up TWICE. Once is fine :)


Regarding coolant type - really, red is red and green is green, and there are some other funny ones getting about but the basic thing is don't mix the colours up. Its really not THAT much of a concern. Having said that - I pretty much exclusively use genuine coolant, as its about the same price as any other quality fluid here in Australia.


I would not be worried about topping up with coolant anyway, distilled water would be just fine. Depending on the water where you live, tap water is fine too. HERESY you say.... well after many years and many vehicles, I can't say I've ever seen any difference over a few years between a car that I used tap water to mix with the coolant vs one where I used distilled. I still use distilled when I have a choice - but sometimes its more important to have ANY water in there than none, ya know?
 
The cost difference between distilled water and tap water does not justify the amount of seconds it would actually take me to type up an educative response to clarify why distilled is a better choice...... and I'm not talking about "emergency" when any fluid with thermal conductivity is better "than nothing" .... I'm talking about proper maintenance.
 
You did what mechanic suggested which I assume is at dealership you are taking Touareg too ?


Most VW's use G12 Plus coolant, you can buy a L on Amazon and I dilute 50/50 with distilled water and keep it along with a L of VW spec oil for emergency like this.


Our 11 VR6 Touareg needed a water pump around 99K, was covered under 10yr/100K VW Power Train Warranty
 
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