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Correct. That's why I was talking about the lack of tapered fittings on the housing and drain valves. I don't think the Fumoto is a tapered fitting because it relys on the gasket to seal. The benefit to my "temp" fix is the nipple I installed is a tapered fitting, and with petroleum resident Teflon it was a positive seal (so far)


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Discussion starter · #22 ·
here is a guy who dealt with this when buying a billet filter cap from ecs. He uses this wrench:
https://www.amazon.com/LZM-1021-004-0-36MM-Filter-Wrench/dp/B01FE5PIBG

I'm pasting his comment on the ecs website (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-par...cs-parts/billet-aluminum-oil-filter-housing-kit-silver-anodized/003602ecs01a01a) here:

Funny thing is ecs guys went into the trouble of designing the cap without thinking of replicating valve inside the oem cap !!! or adding something to make it easier for the customer to drain the filter, like the guy who designed it never did an oil change in his life :)

I have heard little mention on the web of the Fumoto oil drain valve being used as an oil filter housing drain so I thought I'd relay my DIY experiences.

The Audi 2.0 turbo (BPY) engine uses that plastic housing rather than a disposable spin on filter. This works okay for a while but with age the plastic housing can crack and leak. Mine became ���grabby��� at the threads and was very hard to remove. Removal of the plastic housing normally requires a special six-point 36mm low-profile socket and special drain tool.

I replaced the plastic housing with the ECS billet aluminum housing. The part is very finely machined, high quality and robust. I am impressed.

The original plastic housing has an integral drain valve built in. I liked this feature and wanted to replicate it as it makes the task of draining the housing much cleaner. The ECS aluminum housing does not have this valve but has a drain port with conventional screw-in drain plug.

BTW, I use a marine engine oil vacuum extractor to drain the filter and the oil pan (via the dipstick tube) all done from above rather than having to crawl under the car.

I purchased a model F-106N Fumoto valve with the same thread as the drain port, M14 X 1.5. It mated with the new housing perfectly. However the Fumoto valve is in the way of a 36mm socket, so I now use a 36mm oil filter wrench by Level Zero Motorsports, part no. LZM 1021-004-0 (via Amazon). This box-end wrench (just) clears the Fumoto valve body to gain access to the wrench-able hex section of the housing. This whole system works nicely, an oil/filter change now takes me less than 20 minutes.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
By the way I came across this comment while trying to find out if the TT MK2 filter cap can fit the Treg. Apparently not. Still the TT filter cap need the Audi drain tool. The fumoto would be the ultimate solution.
 
here is a guy who dealt with this when buying a billet filter cap from ecs. He uses this wrench:

https://www.amazon.com/LZM-1021-004-0-36MM-Filter-Wrench/dp/B01FE5PIBG



I'm pasting his comment on the ecs website (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-par...cs-parts/billet-aluminum-oil-filter-housing-kit-silver-anodized/003602ecs01a01a) here:



Funny thing is ecs guys went into the trouble of designing the cap without thinking of replicating valve inside the oem cap !!! or adding something to make it easier for the customer to drain the filter, like the guy who designed it never did an oil change in his life :)



I have heard little mention on the web of the Fumoto oil drain valve being used as an oil filter housing drain so I thought I'd relay my DIY experiences.



The Audi 2.0 turbo (BPY) engine uses that plastic housing rather than a disposable spin on filter. This works okay for a while but with age the plastic housing can crack and leak. Mine became ���grabby��� at the threads and was very hard to remove. Removal of the plastic housing normally requires a special six-point 36mm low-profile socket and special drain tool.



I replaced the plastic housing with the ECS billet aluminum housing. The part is very finely machined, high quality and robust. I am impressed.



The original plastic housing has an integral drain valve built in. I liked this feature and wanted to replicate it as it makes the task of draining the housing much cleaner. The ECS aluminum housing does not have this valve but has a drain port with conventional screw-in drain plug.



BTW, I use a marine engine oil vacuum extractor to drain the filter and the oil pan (via the dipstick tube) all done from above rather than having to crawl under the car.



I purchased a model F-106N Fumoto valve with the same thread as the drain port, M14 X 1.5. It mated with the new housing perfectly. However the Fumoto valve is in the way of a 36mm socket, so I now use a 36mm oil filter wrench by Level Zero Motorsports, part no. LZM 1021-004-0 (via Amazon). This box-end wrench (just) clears the Fumoto valve body to gain access to the wrench-able hex section of the housing. This whole system works nicely, an oil/filter change now takes me less than 20 minutes.


Hugely helpful. That wrench looks like a nice idea, however using a socket with long extension would be easier. Plus getting correct torque with that wrench would be impossible. Found the stahlbus valve on Amazon, with a dimensional drawing. Looks like there will be enough I.D. available in the deep well socket for the filter housing to not have to take the valve on and off each time. What I would really like to do is get the valve and source a filter housing from a part out and mock it up before the next oil change.


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Discussion starter · #29 ·
Lets not overlook the fact that the OE drain plug has an O ring whereas the fumitomo et al seems to have a flange washer. Some due diligence to confirm a good seal should be done since oil containment is not something any of us want to compromise.
I installed the new fumoto oil drain plug and it has an O-ring.
https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/f106sx.html

Thread size is 14MM-1.5.

Back to the oil filter solution
I received the stahlbus oil drain blug, same size as the Treg oil drain plug.
I will be installing it on the oil filter next month. This is gonna be the first oil filter change since I bought the car.
I didn't replace the filter when I installed the fumoto plug as I couldn't find the oil filter socket.
I will update with the result when the job is done.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Stahlbus plug installed on the oil filter.
I used a deep well 36mm socket.
I used a rubber seal with stahlbus.
I did my second oil service after 2000km. I removed the filter this time. Man the gunk I found on the filter and the thik oil deposit !!
I used castrol 5w40 in the first service but today I used Ravenol 5w30.
Treg is resting. Tests will start tomorrow.
Pics later
 
Looking forward to your pics.

The filter solution on the Touareg makes the biggest mess of any vehicle I have ever used. There is literally no way to avoid an oil gush, with that filter setup.
 
Good news on your assembly. So you went with a rubber o-ring and not the copper washer that comes with it? I just picked my Stahlbus last week in anticipation of changing my oil in the next two month. Glad it worked out for you. Keep us posted with any issues please


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Discussion starter · #33 ·
Looking forward to your pics. The filter solution on the Touareg makes the biggest mess of any vehicle I have ever used. There is literally no way to avoid an oil gush, with that filter setup.
This was my first oil filter service. Removing the plug does make a mess. Removing the filter cap is less messy. Hence my stahlbus solution.
I cannot upload pics with my phone right now. I'll use my pc later.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Good news on your assembly. So you went with a rubber o-ring and not the copper washer that comes with it? I just picked my Stahlbus last week in anticipation of changing my oil in the next two month. Glad it worked out for you. Keep us posted with any issues please Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I was going to use the copper washer but the washer was going to be crushing against the plastic filter cap side and not the metalic part of the threaded hole. The stalhlbus does not fit completey. It does not screw all the way in but enough to make it usable with a rubber o-ring.
 
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