coolant issue

dutchboypower · Jul 5, 2018

Hello People,

4 weeks ago I blew my right turbo going to work.
What a smoke show. 12K later with new turbo's dealer installed and new Oxy and other parts she runs like a tank. man She is fast. )))

However i seem to have a coolant disappearance issue, I pressurized the system to 35 psi or so and do not see any water dripping at hose locations or sensor location. To Clarify this coolant loss was going on before the Turbo failure

The engine never overheats and temp runs at 200 mid of gauge.
I do see droplets in the oil filler cap and they taste like coolant. ( Yes I tasted it

)
However the dipstick is clean and i have filled at least a gallon or even more in 3 weeks, driving everyday 90 miles
Curious if this could be a leak at the intake manifold since it is at the top of the engine.
I see no bubbles in the coolant reservoir during idle.

Engine runs fantastic and no white smoke or for that matter any smoke.
All I have noticed is that warm startup is taking a long time, or no start
Cold is fine as normal.

The scan tool shows no engine errors.
This is somewhat of a mystery to me.

Cheers,

Sams Village · Jul 5, 2018

EGR cooler bloke.

dutchboypower · Jul 5, 2018

cool thanks,
I will check this weekend.

Sams Village · Jul 5, 2018

Not sure what the V10 is like but my 2008 v6 tdi shat its EGR cooler. Noticed on a cold starup in winter with an excessive amount of steam coming from the exhaust. Steam would go away when warmed up. Few weeks later, got the low coolant light.

I didn't change it for months coz leak was small. Ie. Top up every 2-3 weeks but I did change it DIY before it decided to let go majorly. P.S. 35psi is enough to blow holes in your entire system. This is what radiator shops do on purpose to win work.

Anyhoot, back to topic. try pressure testing 5-10 PSI when engine is hot(if you don't mind 3rd degree burns when u open the cap) and leaving it on for a period of time to see if there's a PSI drop. I took a video of my EGR off the car and pressure tested the sonovumbich up to 60 PSI...no leak....WTF of a waste of time I thought but then I applied a butane torch to it and within a few seconds.....pssssssss she goes.

Trouble is when it heats up it leaks. When driving it gets burned off so when you park up for the day is when the slow leak begins until it cools down and stops. Next day the water sitting inside your exhaust start steaming after the kettle heats up.

dutchboypower · Jul 5, 2018

Thanks dude for the explanation.
Yes 35 PSI was a lot but I really wanted to find something,

I might block the EGR while I am in the system, since it crap system.
Put some plates on both sides. But fist thing first hope that is where the leak is

I will keep you posted.

Cheers,

dutchboypower · Jul 10, 2018

Okay i bypassed the cooler. No difference.
Just got home going to put pressure on the system just sitting as is.
See if there is a drop.

On the other hand, drove 3 hrs yesterday at high speed rpm was about 2500 cruising.
She runs like a tank, all I hear the turbo's spooling when radio is off.

I will get in trouble with this vehicle now lol.
One problem I seem to have is that after driving at 200C colant temp when I shut of car, I can not crank, untill maybe 2 hrs later or so. Then all is fine.
Curious if I could be dumping to much fuel at hot start. I read that the temp sensor at top front of intake area controls fuel delivery when hot.

I am going to attach log, but do not see anything that stands out as being a problem.

I will keep you all posted on the pressure test. at 5-10 PSI hot.

dutchboypower · Jul 10, 2018

Okay Sam,

Holding pressure and coolant level looks fine, all I did was change the short hose going to the steel pipe on top of the engine.

This could all just be an coincidence of course.

very strange, I will keep an eye on it for now. Still think you might be correct.
No water drops to be found in the oil filler neck either

I drove hard over the weekend. She does run sweet now after the drive.
Ah who knows..............

Sams Village · Jul 10, 2018

do you have an image of you cooler?

I thought bypassing water from the egr cooler is a non option coz its a central component. Ie v6 tdi has at least 4 ports that take/pass water from memory. One houses the thermostat.

Sams Village · Jul 10, 2018

For hard starting try turning key to ignition light on position so glow plugs heat up. Do this on off 3 times and see if that makes a difference. Then again, this should be a problem for cold not hot.

dutchboypower · Jul 18, 2018

Hi Sam Village,

Cold there are no problems, first crank starts.
Hot is different story unless I let it sit for awhile, then it starts fine.

As to EGR cooler find attached image

Everything seems to be fine currently and coolant level never changes. Inside oil filler neck and cap look nice and clean again.

Maybe not driving it for 5 weeks might have been the issue, since it was at the dealer for repairs.

Cheers,

Sams Village · Jul 18, 2018

So it was the egr cooler losing coolant? Glad to hear it's sorted.

Mine is starting to lose small amount of coolant again now. If its the egr cooler again then I give up. My new egr cooler is less than 20k km old. I could tell it was losing some before I opened the coolant cap coz there's a steam vapour type smell at exhaust.

cheers
Sam

Edit:
Just reading back all you did was change top hose to egr cooler and leak has stopped? Did you test/inspect hose? Find it hard to believe this hose did not expose weakness on your 35 psi pressure test.

Sams Village · Jul 18, 2018

Ps try my suggestion anyway for hot start. Nothing to lose. Some electricals can stop functioning when hot/warmed up.

edit:
if it was in shop for repairs and only started to show startup problems after shop then I would assume that they caused it.

dutchboypower · Jul 19, 2018

Hi,

I tied the key sequence, but not change.
Before repair it always took a long time cranking when hot to get started.
Now it dies not turn over at all, act like a hydro lock. (To much fuel ? )

people here talk about coolant temp sensor might be bad, where is this unit located?
Is this the same one that controls the fan. I would think there is second one dedicated.

Cheers,

dutchboypower · Sep 3, 2018

So I lost my power assist on the brake system. It just ended up being the molded vacuum line.
I by past the EGR cooler and engine runs fantastic. I can even hear the Turbo's spooling which is a sweet sound.

The biggest problem I have now is the darn hot start after shutting of the engine. The extended crank is way to long even with depressing the accel pedal it does not improve matters.

Let me know our thoughts,

Cheerio,

George

Sams Village · Sep 3, 2018

No idea on that one but may need to start a new thread. I did notice in your log there were a few items with many faults. Could be related?

Sams Village · Sep 20, 2018

dutchboypower said:
The biggest problem I have now is the darn hot start =

did u sort this out George? Must be some electrical part playing up when hot? Any new fault codes?

dutchboypower · Sep 21, 2018

Hi Sam,

Just saw you message.
Sorry my jpob takes up a lot of time travel and so forth.
Well the coolant is for sure good.
The hot start seems to be better also. V10 runs amazing currently since I run highway at 85-90 mph at 2100 rpm or so the engine is very happy.
Just runs super nice now. I would buy another one for sure lol

But no errors no check engine or any other issues. All to do now is to fix the Kessy I saw a nice write up on that here also. Order the parts at total of 4 bucks.

Cheers,

dutchboypower · Dec 16, 2018

Hey Gents,

Apologies been traveling a lot for work.
Just returned from 2 month trip and was looking forward to driving my Touareg.

Fired up fine I was excited. Let it warm up a bit and started driving. Not even 5 min in to the trip big smoke show really BIG.
I turned around and headed home. NO engine check light or warnings.

I had my wife jump in the car while i opened the hood and checked the engine at idle, she gave some gas and to my surprise the passenger hose to the Throttle body from the inter cooler collapses at acceleration where as the driver does not.

I go what the heck, took the inter cooler hose on both sides of. Drove the car (sounded pretty cool, LOL) came back to the house and the passenger side dumped a crap load of oil on the engine as the driver side was dry as a bone.

Since this was dealer paid repair costing 13K and only 5K driven as of the repair.
I am reluctant to bring back to the dealer that did the repair since they did this one not correctly it seems. I think this going to a big fight with the dealer.

Cheers,

GvK

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