Hello, so after doing much research on the forum I am afraid that my KESSY module is on the way out. A few weeks ago I was driving and I got the same message move selector to P pop up. ( no ding or anything) It cleared its self. Drove it that day in the morning and it was fine. Drove it later in the day and it came back. Err. So I went and checked all my doors to see if they unlock with the keyless access and they did. How ever, the back rear door does not lock when I press the button on the door. All the others do. Now with these two things happening at once I believe it is my Kessy failing? I also am hearing something under the dash like mentioned in other threads kinda like a buzz. Anyway that was a few weeks ago. It never popped back up. Well This morning I go and try to start my car and it lit up heat on, Nav, Radio everything. Click click click was all I got. I tired to jump it, nothing happened. Came back out after 2 hours to try one last time and it started fine. I'm thinking its the Kessy? So I called around to the local dealers and well half of them didn't know what a Kessy was, it is a bit concerning. Is it something I can Install my self? Where do I buy that won't rape me?
Kessy going? Where to buy?
Touaregman33
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I tried to start it again this morning, and now am having a running gear fault pop up. I am starting to believe that it is more likely the battery.
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It definitely has something to do with the battery, the truck went nuts today when I tried to start it. Every light on the dash came on and when I turned the key all the lights went out besides the lights on the dash. I hooked my jump pack up and it attempted to start again. It’s definitely battery related at least now. I don’t believe any faults that it’s been showing now. Especially since it’s lit up like a Christmas [emoji319]
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Dunno if it helps, I’ve had a world of hassle over the years with my v10 batteries going flat etc etc but with the second battery it always started...... I had similar symptoms to you last year where I replaced the front battery ( rear was fine) and it still wouldn’t start..........whilst searching google I came across a thread where someone suggested the crank position sensor might be faulty, dirt cheap so I bought one, had it fitted and success!, been fine ever since..... as to the batteries going flat, I installed a cut off switch at the front of the seat and if leaving it for any length of time I just kill it, works great and I can reset the clock in seconds now[emoji846]
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Any suggestion helps! Your guess is as good as mine! HAHA, I charged it for about 6 hours today and put my jumppack on top of the charge, Very slight hesitation but it started back up. I still have lights on the dash, I'm hoping they will clear, I have to see if it will hold the charge now. It's going to the dealer either just one way hop-fully it won't have to be towed. :smile2:
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Fingers crossed for ya mate, good luck[emoji846]
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little update, started fine this morning. Then was getting ready to go for a little drive about 2 hours later to hopefully clear the lights off. But unfortunately the car is back to doing the one click thing. I finally was able to get to the battery but after unplugging the negative terminal for 30, it still went back to the click... sucks... so idk. I guess I will go get the battery tested but I am betting against it. I don’t see how the battery would be fine over night but then after I started this morning it dies after 2 hours. More snow coming this week, so once again because I don’t want the dealer cleaning off the car it is postponed for a bit. I know I can get it to start again but, I am afraid of it clocking out on me when I am driving...
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The only useful information I can give you at this point is two things. (1) If you do start a vehicle in this situation, let it run for about ten minutes to replace the battery charge that you used to start the vehicle. (2) Even a good battery will quickly go bad if the battery is discharged.
Think of it this way. If you take a brand new battery and run the headlights (without running the engine) until the battery is empty and then quickly recharge the battery, you took at least 6 months off of that battery lifespan. If you leave that battery sitting empty for a week, then recharge it, you took about five years off of that battery lifespan.
The worst thing you can do to a lead acid car battery is to run it down and let it sit without a full charge.
If you are to the point of clicking, then you do not have enough charge in the battery to turn over the starter. Just to cut to the tl/dr, chances are you are to the point where you will be putting in a new battery.
Now, the real question is if you have a problem that killed your battery <or> if all your problems are related to a battery that was going bad. Skipping all the possible testing, if the new battery fixes everything, then it was the battery.
Here is a video of a battery tester that you should find useful and a video of a guy using it who does have a bad battery.
Think of it this way. If you take a brand new battery and run the headlights (without running the engine) until the battery is empty and then quickly recharge the battery, you took at least 6 months off of that battery lifespan. If you leave that battery sitting empty for a week, then recharge it, you took about five years off of that battery lifespan.
The worst thing you can do to a lead acid car battery is to run it down and let it sit without a full charge.
If you are to the point of clicking, then you do not have enough charge in the battery to turn over the starter. Just to cut to the tl/dr, chances are you are to the point where you will be putting in a new battery.
Now, the real question is if you have a problem that killed your battery <or> if all your problems are related to a battery that was going bad. Skipping all the possible testing, if the new battery fixes everything, then it was the battery.
Here is a video of a battery tester that you should find useful and a video of a guy using it who does have a bad battery.
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I thank you for the info!
I took the battery to get tested, they said it was slightly weak, so I said give me a new battery.
I put the new battery in and it didn't make a difference... Still the same one click. I returned the battery and got my old one back. It's something deeper :frown2::frown2:
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Little update, I took the truck to the dealer where it currently sits. I got an outrageous quote, for having the starter replaced. I truly don’t believe that it’s the starter and they’re not sure either. They haven’t even plugged it in to the vagcom yet. So I don’t have any codes. I don’t believe that the starter would just go like this, especially when I was having all these weird electrical problems a week before hand. Like the put in P. I have a feeling that the dealer doesn’t know what it’s doing, or they just don’t want to work on my truck.
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I have a hunch that you have other problems than just the starter(maybe kessy/start authorization module), but the starter was the problem on my 04 v8. The symptoms were different: No codes, cluster or shift lever lights, all normal when key was inserted and turned on(not to start position). Turned to start and no crank. Wait a day and the car would start normally. This happened several times and resulted in car having to be towed to dealer. Car would start normally the next day...unable to reproduce or identify issue. They pulled apart wiring harness under driver side carpet, which had gotten wet a few times. Found and repaired some corroded wiring. A couple of weeks later the same no crank problem arose.
Towed again and dealer kept for almost 2 months...unable to reproduce when they would start every few days. Finally I had them replace starter. I showed the tech a diy on starter replacement that avoided pulling engine. Had to fight with service manager, who wanted to pull engine by the book. Found TSB that supported my approach and they finally did it my way. Starter is buried, but can be accessed through passenger wheel well. Still a couple grand, but less than pulling engine. Car has started normally for over a year.
I think they may find codes relating to your strange electrical issues. Fix those first before replacing starter. If that doesn't fix the no start, then starter, but don't let them pull engine. In the old days you could whack the starter with a hammer and that would get if off the dead spot.
Towed again and dealer kept for almost 2 months...unable to reproduce when they would start every few days. Finally I had them replace starter. I showed the tech a diy on starter replacement that avoided pulling engine. Had to fight with service manager, who wanted to pull engine by the book. Found TSB that supported my approach and they finally did it my way. Starter is buried, but can be accessed through passenger wheel well. Still a couple grand, but less than pulling engine. Car has started normally for over a year.
I think they may find codes relating to your strange electrical issues. Fix those first before replacing starter. If that doesn't fix the no start, then starter, but don't let them pull engine. In the old days you could whack the starter with a hammer and that would get if off the dead spot.
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Do you have the TSB that shows you don’t have to pull the engine?
They said they put the car on the lift and tapped the starter a few times and got it to start. But when they put it down and tried to restart it, unfortunately it wouldn’t start again. I did get them to do the vagcom and these are the photos he sent me of it.
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They keep wanting to pull the engine to do it, but I honestly don’t think it’s necessary. I don’t know how to convince them otherwise.
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Could not read the pic of the codes, pic too small. Can you list the codes?
I think this TSB describes how to get at the starter.
www.billswebspace.com/vw.tb.27-06-0..._not_crank_engine_does_not_start_key_cannot_be_removed_from_ignition_switch.pdf
I think this TSB describes how to get at the starter.
www.billswebspace.com/vw.tb.27-06-0..._not_crank_engine_does_not_start_key_cannot_be_removed_from_ignition_switch.pdf
I was able to read the codes by magnifying and there are other electrical issues that should be addressed first. Steering column, trans module, ecu, etc.
You also had low voltage warnings that could be causing these codes, which leads me to believe that the shop did not put a battery charger on before scanning?
I would have them attach a battery charger, clear the codes and then rescan to see what codes are still there.
Maybe you have an ignition switch problem.
You also had low voltage warnings that could be causing these codes, which leads me to believe that the shop did not put a battery charger on before scanning?
I would have them attach a battery charger, clear the codes and then rescan to see what codes are still there.
Maybe you have an ignition switch problem.
There's an easier way...
- Disconnect battery
- Support front end with jack stands on the lift points
- Remove both front tires
- Remove passenger wheelwell liner
- Remove passenger airbox
- Remove lower splash shields
- Support engine with an engine support bar via front hole in passenger cylinder head
- support subframe with jack and remove 4 subframe bolts, lower and allow it to hang
- Remove remaining 2 engine cradle bolts from chassis
- Remove top engine mount nuts, cradle will drop some
- unhook power steering line from engine cradle on driver side
- remove 4 (2 each) engine mount bolts holding mounts to cradle and wrangle mounts out of cradle.
- Wrangle cradle out (this is tricky, but possible)
- disconnect all wiring from alternator
- remove ground cable from passenger engine mount bracket and chassis
- remove passenger engine mount bracket bolts (3)
- remove starter + cable
- remove lower starter bolt
- remove upper starter bolt (from transmission side. Easiest with about 2-2.5 foot extension up between trans and front prop shaft)
- pull starter out for access to solenoid wire
- remove solenoid wire
- done.
I just did this after work this evening in my driveway. 3.5 hours start to finish, not counting time to put my tools away after.
Starter motor is stuck, solenoid works fine. I'll disassemble it tomorrow and see what's up.
- Disconnect battery
- Support front end with jack stands on the lift points
- Remove both front tires
- Remove passenger wheelwell liner
- Remove passenger airbox
- Remove lower splash shields
- Support engine with an engine support bar via front hole in passenger cylinder head
- support subframe with jack and remove 4 subframe bolts, lower and allow it to hang
- Remove remaining 2 engine cradle bolts from chassis
- Remove top engine mount nuts, cradle will drop some
- unhook power steering line from engine cradle on driver side
- remove 4 (2 each) engine mount bolts holding mounts to cradle and wrangle mounts out of cradle.
- Wrangle cradle out (this is tricky, but possible)
- disconnect all wiring from alternator
- remove ground cable from passenger engine mount bracket and chassis
- remove passenger engine mount bracket bolts (3)
- remove starter + cable
- remove lower starter bolt
- remove upper starter bolt (from transmission side. Easiest with about 2-2.5 foot extension up between trans and front prop shaft)
- pull starter out for access to solenoid wire
- remove solenoid wire
- done.
I just did this after work this evening in my driveway. 3.5 hours start to finish, not counting time to put my tools away after.
Starter motor is stuck, solenoid works fine. I'll disassemble it tomorrow and see what's up.
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I just want to start off by saying thank you for all the help. I I printed out the TSB and unfortunately they wouldn't go along with it because it's not the right part that they were replacing for the TSB. They've told me they would rather not do the job for the 4 time now. I did get a copy off the VAGCOM. Ill attach better photos of it.
I really didn't think that it was the starter until they told me they hit the starter a few times and that's when it started. So I don't think it's an ignition switch prob. I still think it may be the kessy.
They did tell me that the battery was low ( Prob from trying to start it all those times causing it to drain) Most of the fault codes are indeed from the battery.
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