3.0V6TDI swirl flap actuator stopped working - Club Touareg Forums
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 05-17-2018 Thread Starter
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3.0V6TDI swirl flap actuator stopped working

Been trying to sort the swirl flaps for ages - code P1018 I think on bank 2. Replaced the linkage on bank 2 which worked for a while. Then decided it wasnít the linkage but the actuator. Replaced that yesterday and the EML went out and the actuators both moved in parallel. Drove my 40 miles to work today - all good. Called at the garage in town to get the airbag light reset - different story - and the EML came back on! Same fault code (lower limit not reached). Had it reset but it is now back on. Discovered tonight that the swirl flap actuator on bank 2 is not operating on accelerator. When I start the engine the lever moves and returns, then moves and returns again - but thatís all. Bank 1 is working as it should. Itís like there is a signal not getting to it. Swapped back to the old actuator - same problem. Put the new actuator in bank 1 position - works fine. Is there a fuse to the actuators or something else I need to do or check? Ross Tech mention checking fuses - but they donít seem to appear on the fuse diagrams. Looked over the wiring as much as I can - no apparent damage. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Sorry for the long post....
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post #2 of 7 Old 05-17-2018
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The failure of the links is only a symptom not the cause.

You will find that your inlet manifold are blockd with carbon and soot. This is a result of crankcase oil fumes combined with hot EGR gases. Unless you strip them off and clean them fully, you will be throwing goodmoney after bad.

Simply repairing the link arms will do nothing othet than continue to overload the stepper motor based actuators. The cost of replacement will just add to your pain.

Strip the manifolds and buy a new set of butterfly vanes and links from Ebay. These kits generally include new orings and gaskets.

Once you have done that then fit an oil catch can to prevent it from happening again.

Kind Regards
Stuart....

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post #3 of 7 Old 05-18-2018 Thread Starter
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Thanks, Stuart for your reply - thatís a possibility, but I should also have said that even with the linkage disconnected the same happens. Also if I unbolt the actuator and sit it on the engine the same happens. The linkages move freely - but I will do the flaps as I have read that they do become caked. Anything else you can suggest?
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post #4 of 7 Old 05-18-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mwdavey View Post
Thanks, Stuart for your reply - thatís a possibility, but I should also have said that even with the linkage disconnected the same happens. Also if I unbolt the actuator and sit it on the engine the same happens. The linkages move freely - but I will do the flaps as I have read that they do become caked. Anything else you can suggest?

Having done this job more than once on vehicles I can tell you that.
- If you buy a repair kit with flaps and the important new shaft bushing that come with the kit along with new arms (the closed in type don't buy the open end ones) correctly installed that will fix your issue 100%.


regards
Drag
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post #5 of 7 Old 05-18-2018 Thread Starter
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Hi Drag - thanks for your reply. I've also done this job before, but this time it's different - the actuator lever to bank 2 isn't responding to throttle as bank 1 does - even without being connected to the flaps.
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post #6 of 7 Old 05-18-2018
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Yep seen that before where you cannot control the swirl flap motor. I believe this is because when you first turn on the ignition key the motor does some cycles to check itself but realises due to being able to move out of range it faults straight away and won't move again.
Regards
Drag
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post #7 of 7 Old 05-20-2018 Thread Starter
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Thanks Drag and Stuart - I can see the logic of what you are saying so have ordered the kit to do both sides next weekend - I will let you know if that cures it!
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