04 V10 TDI Camshaft replacement. - Club Touareg Forums
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post #1 of 43 Old 03-01-2018 Thread Starter
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04 V10 TDI Camshaft replacement.

Hello All,

I have searched high and low for trying to find if one can replace the camshafts on the V10 Touareg without pulling the engine.

The answer is yes you can!
You do have to pull the tandem pump fully out (easier to undo the fuel lines off the common rail than the pump). And then undo the oil supply lines which feed the turbochargers. Once this is done you can remove the 36mm nut which holds the gear that drives the camshafts. You then need to pull the pin out of that gear. The pin has a threaded hole (M8x1.25) in the end. Thread in a bolt and wiggle in and out and the pin pulls out. Once out the support arm can come off the bronze bushing that prevents the camshaft from coming out.

These cams were replaced with new and have less than 20k miles on them. The lifters were also replaced. All the lifters already show signs of damage, and every exhaust lobe has wear on the nose and ramp.
Since replacement of these parts, the vehicle has only run LiquiMoly.
I will be taking these to Colt Cams and having a stage 2 grind put on them. I will also be running an additive with every oil change. The additive is PowerUp EngineMaxx PDS.

While I am doing these mods I am doing to eliminate the EGR system and do a different crankcase breather system to help keep things a little cleaner under the hood.
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post #2 of 43 Old 03-01-2018 Thread Starter
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To hold the camshafts for undoing their bolt through the gear I gabbed up this plate. It holds the cams perfectly level with the head surface for alignment while being strong enough to prevent any movement for torquing those bolts. Worked like a charm.
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The attachments show the empty head, the gear support arm which prevents removal of the camshaft, the threaded hole for removal of the pin, and the pin itself.
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post #4 of 43 Old 03-01-2018 Thread Starter
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This shows the wear on the lobes and the lifters. Again less than 20k miles.
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post #5 of 43 Old 03-01-2018
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Interesting thread. Always better with pictures too.

One of the reasons for the camshaft lobe wear is the acute angle and this is why it is essential to use VW505.01 or VW506.01 oils in the early engines as these have additives to prevent the oil molecules from shearing due to the extreme pressure caused by the lobe angle.

Will the reprofiling increase these angles and, in doing so, mean that the oil molecules will shear thereby leading to premature wear on the lobes?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by noobytoogy View Post
Interesting thread. Always better with pictures too.

One of the reasons for the camshaft lobe wear is the acute angle and this is why it is essential to use VW505.01 or VW506.01 oils in the early engines as these have additives to prevent the oil molecules from shearing due to the extreme pressure caused by the lobe angle.

Will the reprofiling increase these angles and, in doing so, mean that the oil molecules will shear thereby leading to premature wear on the lobes?
The LiquiMoly oil used through the entire life of these camshafts is a VW approved oil.
The profile of the cams is as stated for a solid lifter, not a hydraulic lifter. I've known the owner of Colt Cams for years and he is the guy to go to for these cams. He is the one that found the profile problem, as well as that at around 30 deg there is a bump in the lobe (factory grind) that slaps the surface of the lifter and breaks it down. Once the surface on the lifter fails, the cam wears really rapidly as well. If it wears too much then the lifter actually eats into the lobe that drives the injectors.
Upon getting the cams to Colt it was decided that if the had gotten another 3k miles or so they would have been too far gone and I would have had to replace them.

I believe that part of the reason that these cams failed so fast is when the last shop replaced them they did not properly lube them or do the proper 20 min of running at 2k RPM to ensure proper break-in.
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post #7 of 43 Old 03-01-2018
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I spoke with him also for cams for my corvette. Very informative guy. My impression was the cam profile was the problem and not the oil from my conversation. Seems like it is a tolerance issue with the factory grind that is the same in other VW PD Tdi engines. I’ll be using his cams when it time in my Touareg’s and project when it’s time...

3 V10TDI's: (2)2004 Black/Black, Silver/Black and 2004 V10TDI in 1990 Corvette
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post #8 of 43 Old 03-01-2018
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Not for me but wow I applaud you for the effort as removal in chassis would be very tight and visibility of some items would be zero but well done.
I would have said not worth the effort over removing the engine but hey again well done.


As for the cams
- Yes oil is very important this is what I use the VW spec oil is wrong for a flat tappet engine nowhere near enough ZZDP.
https://www.penriteoil.com.au/applic...w-40-pao-ester.
- Use of assembly lube fortified with ZZDP is essential to be used during assembly.
- Initial bedding in of the cams at initial start up is also recommended.
- You are correct for some reason VW decided to use a solid lobe profile on a hydraulic tappet


- If you have any issues with getting a your local colt cams I also have made my Aussie TDI cams for the V10 which are steel billet cams, induction hardened and have a slightly higher lift and duration and of course are a hydraulic profile.
These are superior to the VW cams in every way.


regards
Drag
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post #9 of 43 Old 03-01-2018
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Would you mind doing a video recap of removal? Also a video of reinstalling?

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
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post #10 of 43 Old 03-01-2018 Thread Starter
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I may be able to do some assembly pictures but Iím the type that normally gets in there and just gets going and forgets to take pictures. ???
Drag, I love the idea of your cams but I will be sticking with a regrind for the moment. Stage 2 right now.
Now that I know where all the bolts etc are I think I could probably replace the camshafts in the TDI in 10-12 hours which is a great deal faster and easier than dropping the engine.

Again I will try to remember the pictures so I can write up a DIY for those that wish to follow suit.
And as far as room yes itís very tight but the bolts have all been fairly easy compared to some vehicles that Iíve worked on......
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