87 octane - Page 3 - Club Touareg Forums
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post #21 of 36 Old 2 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TurboABA View Post
I don't understand what you are trying to prove.
Judging by your "answer", you don't understand the question either: "Who is running 87 octane in their Treg?"
Not that complicated really.

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post #22 of 36 Old 1 Week Ago
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You're right.... let me answer that one.

NO ONE who has options and who also likes their engine (or who likes to have a properly running\performing one).
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post #23 of 36 Old 1 Week Ago
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Originally Posted by TurboABA View Post
You're right.... let me answer that one.

NO ONE who has options and who also likes their engine (or who likes to have a properly running\performing one).
Avatar checks out.

I've been running 87 in my '11 since 54K miles and I am fairly certain the original owner did as well. At 200K now, and have had NO engine problems. I guess I have nothing to compare it to since this is the only Treg I've ever driven. Seems like guys in here love to flex anytime someone asks this question.
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post #24 of 36 Old 1 Week Ago
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Originally Posted by esco229 View Post
Avatar checks out.

I've been running 87 in my '11 since 54K miles and I am fairly certain the original owner did as well. At 200K now, and have had NO engine problems. I guess I have nothing to compare it to since this is the only Treg I've ever driven. Seems like guys in here love to flex anytime someone asks this question.
I guess manufacturer's minimum octane requirements are FAKE, just like Global Warming.,,,,,,, excuse me while I go flex
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post #25 of 36 Old 1 Week Ago
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As long as the electronic anti knock system is working, the engine should be ok. There is a possibility of damage if the anti knock system dies. If this is an acceptable risk or not is something that each driver has to decide.

You will lose power. 0 to 60 times will be slower. Some people don't notice or if they do, they don't care about that. MPG goes down a small amount.

The real killer for me was the fact that the loss of power meant the vehicle started downshifting on hills where it normally pulled them in high gear. That was aggravating enough for me that when I added the fact I was losing MPG also, that I gave up and went back with the 93 ethanol.

Mellow drivers living in a flat area probably would notice nothing different.

tldr: It's your car and you can do what you want. All I can do is tell you how it worked out for me.
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post #26 of 36 Old 1 Week Ago
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I flexed too hard and ripped my shirt...... so I came back to give you this....

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post #27 of 36 Old 1 Week Ago
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I have been running 87 octane in my 2014 V6 3.6 engine for the past two years and have not noticed any performance or decrease in mileage. Cost difference is substantial, Chicago is pretty flat, and the Touareg is not a sports car so Iím happy to go this way. I do look for TopTier fuel, mostly buying from Costco. I know VW owners can get very excited about doing this but there was an interesting article in one of the car mags recently that also found that most naturally aspirated engines did just fine without using the recommended premium.
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post #28 of 36 Old 1 Week Ago
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I live at 8500', have a VCDS and regularly drive between 6,000' and 10,000'. Will be happy to run some VCDS logging if you let me know what needs to be logged.

Peace!
Carl

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post #29 of 36 Old 1 Week Ago
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Originally Posted by TurboABA View Post
If you think it's knock you're hearing, check your timing logs to see if there's pull happening. Also, make sure you run the correct copper plugs with the correct heat range. Once you start running crappy fuel, leaning out or fouling plugs due to whatever, you need to freshen up the plugs and start experimenting with the gap and heat range... Don't run platinum plugs as they are for lazy People who want to not look at them for 60k+.... Not for those who want a properly performing engine.

Have you considered running seafoam though it? Carbon buildup will cause hot spots and sometimes induce problems like you're describing, etc.
I will doing some extensive logging this summer. I have replaced the valve cover gasket and have found a noticeable amount of carbon buildup but didn't have the tools to the do a proper cleaning. I will try the cleaning later. I replaced the valve cover because of an oil leak. I have replaced the plugs with the correct ngk ones, not the platinum version. I checked the gap and it's less than 1mm so within spec. I still have the old coils I bought it with. I plan to replace them with some beru ones if replacing the variable intake shift rod bushings does not cure the knock/noise/rolling marbles.
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post #30 of 36 Old 1 Week Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KraftwerkTurbo View Post
Log your cam position, knock sensor voltage and timing pull (VAGcom).
Not sure how VVT works on the V8 (I am used to 22 degrees intake cam at 4200 rpm).
Quote:
Originally Posted by KraftwerkTurbo View Post
What do you mean by "if the timing check procedure is still not accurate according to the internet."?
I will do the logging soon.
I have seen mixed opinions about the accuracy and condition of the timing check tests. When and how to log and how to interpret and what measure blocks are really relevant. I don't have the links right now but will put them if I get m hands on them.

And here is why I'm also suspecting the knock sensors:

https://wellsve.com/sft503/counterp_v4_i4_2000.pdf
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