2004 Rough running, misfire, shaking... V8 - Club Touareg Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 03-08-2017 Thread Starter
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2004 Rough running, misfire, shaking... V8

Gomorning. New member here.

I have a 2004 Touareg with a 4.2 V8, 125.000 miles - California car.
It has a bad misfire (all rpm) and will not pass smog (check eng light on/flashing). I am above average mechanicly speaking...

I HAVE searched both this forum - plus other Audi foras to find info - but not there yet.

Here is whats happening. The car starts fine, but has the misfire from start, all rpm. It shakes, and check eng light starts flashing. I pulled the codes (not VAG COM) and Im getting P0300 (random misfire) and pretty much all the P0301 -P0308 codes (misfire cyl#) randomly....
Initially I have replaces the plugs, to the correct ones (and they are correct - been there done that). Then all the coils have been removed and tested on an AUDI V8 and the AUDIs coils have been fitted to the Touareg and tested... same misfire patteren on the Touareg and the Touaregs coils was working fine on the AUDI.

SO ITS NOT THE COILS or PLUGS!!!!!

Next - I have done a Vacuum test and here is where I need help.
I simply cannot get a vacuum on the intake. See pic. I have cheked all small vacuum hoses, one solenoid for the butterfly valves was bad, but that does not explain why no vacuum. Im getting only 3 Hg/in...
I have tried the smoke method, blocked off both intakes at the MAF and couldnt find a leak. I pressure tested the intake and found that the intake manifold bolts were loose (a common problem). Those have been tightned and pressure tested again. That leak was gone.... but same Vacuum reading (hte gauge is fitted correct direct to manifold)

On another note the brake booster seems not to work, so I am suspecting that the vacuum to booster is broken - thus explaning the vacuum leak... except that the brake booster uses a different system - a seperate vacuum pump.... so it cant be that - although this have to be looked at as well.

Where the hell is this major leak happening...? any ideas why this low vacuum reading..?
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post #2 of 8 Old 03-08-2017
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I'll take a jab at it. This is similar to my old 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe (yeah...cheapy starter vehicle when I got out of college), at 136K. Started the vehicle, no issues, with smooth idling from cold start. The moment I started driving off, lost power, misfired started from 1200RPM, and all hell broke loose with P0300. Grand!

Parked the vehicle, and revisited it later on the weekends with an auto mechanic friend. We stripped the basic down, did the vacuum tests with smoke and sprays. Could not figure out where the leak occurred. All pumps, filters, and hoses, and every other components were practically new, no crack, leak, or issues. We changed out plugs, cables, and still issues. We gave up on the checks and went extreme. Took us a good 3 days to remove the block, and changed out the gasket. Shoved everything back in, and voila. Apparently, there's a micro cracks in the gasket, created a vacuum leak, were sprays and smoke test can't produce the visible results you want. I pulled out my microscope at 10x to check the gasket for the fun of it, and surely enough, spotted the micro cracks.

- Leo

When life offers you a blessed world to explorer, why stay home and see the adventures through others' eyes.
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post #3 of 8 Old 03-08-2017 Thread Starter
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Unhappy

UPDATE:

First thank you Ionman - but with the amount of lack of vacuum - I ccould not be a small crack....

Anyway - I found the problem.... Cylinder 5, middle intake valve broken and embeded in the head (see pic) ...

I cam to the conclusion that all vacuum lines were good, and because I can not get a decent vacuum reading, it had to be a vacuum problem rather than an electrical, or fuel delivery problem.

At least it explains why I could not get a vacuum.... So, head coming of and new head to be ordered. Does any anyone have any specs on this work... I need sequence of cylinder head bolts and torque specs.
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post #4 of 8 Old 03-08-2017 Thread Starter
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sorry for the spelling.... finger troubles...
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post #5 of 8 Old 03-08-2017
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Sorry to hear about the 5th cylinder. Chalk one more mark to the board to pop the head wide open. I've collected info over the year on torque specs without the repair manual. Might as well dump it all out. Grab what you need:

Torque specifications (Ft-lbs) ALH engine:
-Drian plug (19mm) 22
-Cam bearing cap (13mm) 15
-Vacuum pump (13mm) 15
-Valve cover (5mm allen) 7
-Cam sprocket (19mm) 33
-T-belt tensioner (13mm) 15
-IP sprocket bolts (13mm) 18
-Pendulum mount to Body mount16mm) 30 + 1/4 turn
-Engine mount to engine bracket18mm) 44 + 1/4 turn (updated bolts [grey in color] are 74 ft.lbs. trans and engine side)
-Crank shaft bolt: 88 + 90 degrees
-Crankshaft main bearing bolts: 48ft lb + 90 degrees
-Connecting rod bolts: 22 + 1/4 turn (oiled threads and contact surfaces)
-Oil pan bolts (10mm/5mm allen) 11
-Bell housing to oil pan (16mm) 33
-Front seal carrier bolts (10mm/5mm allen) 11
-Rear seal carrier bolts (10mm/5mm allen) 11
-Harmonic balancer bolts (6mm allen) 18 Ft Lb
-Flywheel to crank bolts: 44 + 1/4turn
-Pressure plate to flywheel bolts: 10 ft lb
Loosen and tighten gradually and diagonally (for DMF)

-Bell housing to engine block: 60
-Starter bolts: 50
-Oil filter housing bolts (10mm/5mm allen) 11 + 1/4 turn
-Serpentine belt tensioner (13mm) 18
-Thermostat housing (10mm/5mm allen) 11 don't over do this puppy

-Large timing belt roller16mm) 30 + 1/4 turn
-Small upper timing belt roller bolt(13mm) 15
-Small lower timing belt roller nut (13mm) 15
-Intake Manifold to head bolts (6mm allen) 18
-Cylinder head bolts (12mm 12pt.) tighten in the proper sequence to 30, then 44, then 1/4 turn, then 1/4 turn
sequence:
10 4 2 6 8
7 5 1 3 9

-Injection pump to bracket bolts (13mm) 22
-Injector retainers (13mm) 15 ft lbs
-Water pump bolts (10mm/5mm allen) 11
-Engine mount bracket to engine bolts (16mm) 33
-rivnuts (17mm) 30
-Wheel Lugs (17mm) 89
-Glow Plugs (10mm) 11
-Transmission mount to "bracket that holds transmission" (the 2 big 18mm bolts that hang the tranny from the mount) - 100nm (74ftlbs)

-Dog bone (aka) Rear Transmission Mount (aka) Pendulum Support...

-Rear 2 bolts (to subframe) 20nm + 90deg (15ftlbs + 1/4turn)
-Front 2 (to tranny) 40nm + 90deg (30ftlbs + 1/4turn)

-Drive Shaft to tranny - 40 Nm (30 ft lb)
(According to Bentley, it's done in 2 stages... first tighten them diagonally to 10 NM (7.4 Ft*Lbs), then tighten them diagonally to 40 NM (29.5 Ft*Lbs) (that is: if those are 8 mm bolts... the 10 mm bolt cars are tightened to 70 NM --ymz)

-transmission (manual) drain/fill plugs 18 ftlb.
-C.V. axle: M8-30ft.lb, M10-59ft.lb
-Tie rod end nut 33 ft lb, confirmed
-Tie rod end to tie rod 37 ft lb

Ball joint to spindle (self-locking nut): 45 Nm

Ball joint to control arm (use new bolts): 20 Nm plus an additional 90* turn

Sway bar end link at control arm: 33ft lb

Strut retainer bolt and self-locking nut (bolt that goes through spindle, holding the strut in place; replace hex bolt. Bolt point must point to the front of vehicle): 60 Nm plus an additional 90* turn; Never less than 90*

Rear, upper shock mount: 30Nm (22ft -lb.) + 1/4 turn (90 degrees)

Caliper to carrier (8mm allen; caliper->carrier pins): 28 Nm

Carrier to spindle("ribbed combi bolts"): 125 Nm

Brake hose to caliper(banjo union and bolt): 35 Nm

Tie rod end self-locking nut: 45 Nm

Bell housing to engine block:
M12x55 (qty 3) 80 Nm
M12x150 (qty 2) 80 Nm (starter bolts)
M10x50 (qty) 3) 60 Nm
M7x12 (qty 3) 10 Nm
Starter bolts: 80 Nm
Thermostat housing: 15 Nm
Small upper timing belt roller bolt: 20 Nm
Small lower timing belt roller nut: 22 Nm
Intake Manifold to head bolts: 25 Nm
Injection pump to bracket bolts: 30 Nm
Water pump bolts: 11 ft-lbs
Engine mount to engine bolts: 33 ft-lbs

- Leo

When life offers you a blessed world to explorer, why stay home and see the adventures through others' eyes.
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post #6 of 8 Old 03-08-2017 Thread Starter
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Ionman....

YOU are the MAN....!!!!! Thank you...!!!! exactly what I need. Much appreciated.

Thanks

Brgds
Hvirvel
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post #7 of 8 Old 08-22-2017
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Will those torque specs be diff for a v8 fsi?
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post #8 of 8 Old 08-22-2017 Thread Starter
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Not sure.... actually the specs here was pretty much dead on (I dont remember the exact specs now) to what I got from the dealer if I recall correct. But - a word of advise....: Use an aluminum grease paste on the bolts (not much - just coat them). Regular oil wont do it.
During my first attempt - during second - angle tightning sequence - the very last bolt snapped at about 75 degrees.....!!!!

Everything of again - down to the dealer and get 10 new bolts. This time I used the alu paste and it was much easier to get a smooth movement. I also left the last tightning seq at 75 degrees, not 90.... I basically "eyeballed" 75 degrees out of the blue just to avoid snapping those damn bolts again. Figured that will be enough. And it was....! a few 1000 miles down the road it runs just fine, no leaks of any kind. Emissions spot on..... all good!

Good luck.
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