Lost key fob function in VCDS - Page 2 - Club Touareg Forums
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post #11 of 27 Old 03-16-2019 Thread Starter
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The radio appears to be original to the car. If it's a replacement then it's a factory replacement for my MY.

Tonight for the heck of it I did put back those fuses, along with any others. I went row by row checking them as well. So all the fuses are in and the correct amps.

I then started the car, ran VCDS, no changes that I could see. Still nothing from either fob. Tried the key in ignition key in door thing again. Still nothing.

The only think I can think to do next is unplug the KESSY wait, then plug it back in. And/or disconnect the battery for a bit.

I DID do a nice copy and paste from this website: 2002-2005 Volkswagen Touareg Fuse Box Diagram Ľ Fuse Diagram of all the fuse layouts. File below.

Some days I really miss changing jets on my modified 1966 Porsche 911 with carbed 3.0SC engine! I think that car had a grand total of about 20 wires LMAO!
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File Type: pdf Touareg Fuse Locations.pdf (279.2 KB, 9 views)
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post #12 of 27 Old 03-17-2019
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There should be a fuse map in your owner's manual, and you should use that, because fuse locations and even amperage might vary between model years, engine models and trim levels!

The battery disconnect thing might be worth a try. However, make sure you've either a single battery system, or follow the instructions for the dual battery system precisely (described in the repair manuals), otherwise you might damage some components permanently!
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post #13 of 27 Old 03-17-2019
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I don’t have anything specific to add... only the general statement that I have noticed when having strange issues like this.

Has your battery been tested under load? This can be done at a retailer if you remove it from the car and they bench test it. With the amount of time you stated it went flat chances are good that that may be a issue...

This may not help your situation, just letting you know what I had happen when my batteries were in need of replacement.

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post #14 of 27 Old 03-17-2019 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gnits View Post
There should be a fuse map in your owner's manual, and you should use that, because fuse locations and even amperage might vary between model years, engine models and trim levels!

The battery disconnect thing might be worth a try. However, make sure you've either a single battery system, or follow the instructions for the dual battery system precisely (described in the repair manuals), otherwise you might damage some components permanently!
I am aware of the factory diagram. This one is handier for me when diagnosing things.

I will try the battery disconnect today and report back.

I'm also expecting a straight thru cable today and will be trying K-commander to get the code I need to look deeper into VCDS.
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post #15 of 27 Old 03-17-2019 Thread Starter
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Thank you.

I bought the car last April. It had a new battery then but off brand. Late summer I purchased and installed a new battery from the dealership. So many forums made a big issue out of how important the proper battery was. That battery lasted a week before it started dying.

Last week I did a draw test on the car. 2.66-3.12 amps when locked and "asleep". I pulled the radio and amp fuses. Draw went down below 0.2 amps. As you can imagine, with a 4 amp charger and a 3 amp draw I was never fully charging overnight. Since then I have been able to get the battery back up to 100%.

This is what I know for certain. The key fobs were working prior to touching it with VCDS. I did my VCDS mods and cleared the codes and the fobs immediately quit working. Logically that would point to me doing something wrong in VCDS to lose fob functionality. Both fobs have good batteries and will flash green when you hold a button.

Logically, at this point, everything is pointing to me messing something up when I did the TPMS delete. If the computer can "forget" the TPMS exists one would assume it can do the same with the remote receiver module. Since I need a security access code to get into VCDS deeper that is what I am now on the hunt for. Hoping I can pull it from the computer today.
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post #16 of 27 Old 03-17-2019 Thread Starter
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Well I tried the battery disconnect. No luck.

Got the wrong can cable from Amazon. This one is for a BMW. My mistake.

This is what I want to do with it. https://sites.google.com/site/imnuts/
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post #17 of 27 Old 03-18-2019 Thread Starter
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Update:

I went thru all of the fuses using the factory owners manual. All are in except the two radio ones and the TPMS.

I was able to get my immo PIN using a Vag-401.

From there I went into 05 Start/Auth and used the Ross Tech procedure for my car, with the PIN, to reprogram all three keys (including valet). They all still will start the car. Remote function still not working.

I poured over this thing in VCDS and online forums. No luck at all. The only thing that came close was a guy who stated he "lost" his remote control adaptation function using VCDS and a dealer fixed it free of charge. I am assuming they just reflashed the car? I guess I will find out in the morning.
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post #18 of 27 Old 03-18-2019
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I'm still positive that this is more likely an electric/hardware issue (ie. the alarm unit is not sensing an appropriate remote signal for whatever reason), than a software one. But of course it could be either one.
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post #19 of 27 Old 03-18-2019 Thread Starter
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I believe you are correct but in a software way. I figure if I can program the computer to not search for the TPMS anymore then the same could happen with the module for the alarm radio receiver. Basically it's turned off in software but beyond my reach with VCDS. I triple checked every fuse that could power the alarm, comfort module, etc. anything remotely related to the remotes lol. I've even had the radio fuses both back in. Nothing.

Oddly though, today as I was reprogramming the keys I messed up and was using the wrong procedure and trigger Immo. The TPMS came BACK ON! Wow! I thought, so I tried the keys, no dice. Disabled, again, the TPMS.

Everything on the car is working perfectly except the TPMS (disabled), the radio (fuse pulled) and the remotes. One minor code for an air quality sensor. I'll fix that soon enough, will likely order it and a few other parts at the dealer tomorrow.
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post #20 of 27 Old 03-18-2019
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Did you also try the remote control sync procedure again after you've re-taught the keys to the unit?

What about this procedure?
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