Thank you for the link. I did read that last week. I am thinking of changing the oil next weekend, just because I don't know when it was last changed. Can you do the oil yourself or is it preferred to take it in to someone? I would really like to do it myself if possible since I will be paying close to $100 for the oil and filter alone.
Also, was wondering if anyone has done brakes on these before and could recommend a set of rotors and pads. I would really like to upgrade to a better rotor and pad combination to help this 6,000lb beast stop a little better.
At the risk of starting an "oil war" I'll say that I use the Mobile 1 Diesel Truck Oil in mine. It takes a lot! The job is easily done, I think the only trick is getting the cap off the filter housing. I use a giant pair of channel lock pliers and work it loose gently. It's plastic so you want to use a 5 1/2 inch channel lock so that you aren't putting a lot of clamping pressure on the plastic. You can get the actual tool for about $40 - do a search of the forums because suppliers have been posted. Make sure to get a new aluminum crush washer for the drain plug and a new seal for the filter housing. I always buy the filter from the dealership and they throw in a crush washer for free. Otherwise it's about a dime. I did try buying the filter online once and they sent the wrong one but the dealer usually knows which one you need. But bring the part number just in case. (07Z115562 )
I won't start a "rotors / pads" war because I got slammed the last time I mentioned the rotors and pads that I bought. Do some research here and make an informed choice for your application and desired results. I got a kit that came well recommended by other owners that included all new clips, pins, sensors, bolts, caliper grease, etc... for under a grand. I didn't reuse any of the old rusty parts. PM me for details because I won't say it in the open forum again - then research it and see if they are right for you. Also note that the slanted vents in some rotors must point in the right direction, so there is a left and right rotor (depending on the brand).
I will say that the job is not that difficult, you just need the right tools and the time. I found a triple square plus hex driver set on Amazon that had all the sizes I needed for a reasonable price:
Neiko 40-Piece Industrial Grade S2 Power Hex, Torx, XZN Triple Square Socket Bit Set - Triple Square Drive Sockets - Amazon.com
I worked on one corner at a time - be sure to lock the air suspension and support on jack stands and have plenty of PB Blaster on hand for the rusty parts. By the fourth one you'll be a pro. I did have some of the bolts locked up and used a 4 foot cheater pipe to bust them free, but everything else came off with an air impact wrench.
FYI - it stops on a dime, quiet braking, and average dust.
Look on YouTube for some videos of performing this brake job. Pay attention to the sequence of events, but the rest is just wrench turning. Lots of people on here have done it, so you can get lots of help or advice.