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post #1 of 13 Old 06-23-2011 Thread Starter
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engine coolant temp

This 2011 TDI Sport is my 9th diesel, so I'm not a novice. All my previous diesels had thermostats between 70C and 85C (160F-185F). Yet this Touareg wants to run at an indicated 210F (instrument panel gauge). Sending unit and gauge work, because I can see the temp rise as the engine warms up. But then it stops at 210F, and doesn't move anymore. I don't even see the (expected) gauge movement that reflects the thermostat opening and closing. Can it possibly have a 100C thermostat, or is this something I should have checked out? No check engine lights/faults/codes by the way.

Checked with service manager at 2 different dealerships. One danced around the question, said he'd have to plug in the car. The other promised a callback, then didn't. So I'm hoping for real-world input from other US-spec 2011 Touareg TDI owners (3.0 engine). Because from what I've seen since owning this vehicle, they seem to know more about their cars than do the VW service reps (in my area).

//greg//
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post #2 of 13 Old 06-23-2011
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FYI - My 2008 V6 TDI sits as steady as a rock on 90 C and does not move, either in mid summer at 40 C or Last week in Canberra at 2 C.... I think 100 C (210F) sounds a little high...

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post #3 of 13 Old 06-23-2011
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The manual says normal operating temp is in the center of the gauge, which on US models is 200F which is where mine runs.
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post #4 of 13 Old 06-23-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wensteph View Post
The manual says normal operating temp is in the center of the gauge, which on US models is 200F which is where mine runs.
90F day here today, and I checked on the way home, and my temp was at 200F the whole way, which as indicated, is the middle of the gauge, straight up and down...

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post #5 of 13 Old 06-23-2011
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Further to what I said, 90C is also the middle of the gauge (straight up at the top).

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ACC, Front & Side Assist, Paddle Shift, Towbar & Trailer Module, Fiscon Bluetooth. Reversing Camera, Front Fog Lamps, Redarc TowPro Brake Controller, T1 Door Warning Lamps, T1 Under Seat Drawer, Alloy Skid Plate, 5ton Winch, Cayenne Front and Rear Sway Bars, Tuned by Oettinger, Retrofitted 6 Piston Brembo Front Brake Callipers, Sports Steering Wheel, TPMS (OEM), Dual Batteries
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post #6 of 13 Old 06-23-2011
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To the point of needle movement above the 'set' point - whatever that may be. The ONLY time you should see ANY needle movement above the set point is if there is not enough cooling. ie you are pulling a long grade under heavy load such as pulling a trailer AND the cooling system is dirty or partly plugged.
Otherwise, as the motor throws off more heat, the thermostat just opens a tiny bit more and allows more coolant through to be cooled by the radiator etc. As the engine load increases it keeps on doing that until not enough cooling is available from the radiator. Only then does the temp actually rise a measurable amount.

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post #7 of 13 Old 06-24-2011
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my temp gage is always in the twelve o'clock position when warmed up(210f) and stays there
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post #8 of 13 Old 06-24-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grohgreg View Post
This 2011 TDI Sport is my 9th diesel, so I'm not a novice. All my previous diesels had thermostats between 70C and 85C (160F-185F).
//greg//
Volkswagen run their diesel engines at 90 degrees - Helps to achieve an optimal burn. It is perfectly normal. I would only get worried if the hand passed the twelve o clock position.


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post #9 of 13 Old 06-24-2011 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CustomSpooling View Post
Volkswagen run their diesel engines at 90 degrees - Helps to achieve an optimal burn. It is perfectly normal. I would only get worried if the hand passed the twelve o clock position.
Well, that's consistent with the Jetta 1.9 TDI owners input. Their 12 o'clock position is said to be 90C (194F). But 12 o'clock on my 3.0 TDI is 200F (93C. And my needle runs pretty consistently at or near 210 (almost 100C).

It's either a false indication, or 210F isn't hot enough to trigger an ECM fault. Two VW service managers have failed to come up with an explanation, which is why I'm trying here.

//greg//
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post #10 of 13 Old 06-24-2011
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I believe modern emission controls need higher operating temps. My V-10 has run at water temp 200 and oil temp 200-210 (depends on whether or not I'm towing. I've never seen either go above those numbers even when pulling a grade. This leads me to believe the total cooling capacity is adequate.

I believe the thermostats are electrically operated and controlled by the engine computer. As a result one will not observe the "traditional" changes in water temperature due to thermostats opening and closing.

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