Touareg: 2014 V6 FSI
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Puget Sound, WA
Second Vehicle: Still looking
Thanked 5 Times in 2 Posts
Lug conversion 2014 T3 7P Touareg 7P
Disclaimer: operations below should be reviewed performed by a certified technician, and might result in fatal injury. Please perform at ones owner risk.
It has always been a pain to put the heavy wheel on to the hub with a rod hanger. Searched through and find little about lug conversion on this SUV. Tested out myself and below are my steps.
Concerns and thoughts:
Consider this is a 4800 lbs SUV, I hoped the lug to be strong as well as the nut. Corrosion is also a concern because open end nut will remove the annodizing after a few rotations and expose bare metal threads.
My personal choice
Lug track-stud 65mm with no thread leading head - they do protect threads when putting on wheels. The lug appears strong. For OEM 19" Everest wheel I ended up 9-10 turns to tighten the nut (1 turn = 1.5mm).
With BBS SV (a slimmer center hub) 18″, that’s 12-13 turns, and with a 5mm spacer, that 8-9 turns. Each turn gave me 1.5mm.
It took me a while to get the best for me. Initially I use the track stud provided nut and McGard ball seat lock (only one available on market). They run pretty strong - including the lock. They raised two concern to me after 2 rotations: corression after bear metal exposed. the lock cover use 22mm socket and it is a pain to install and remove (additional sock, thread alignment).
My plug in - for the 16 black anodized nuts and 4 locks - including McGard key order form / sticker, $35 paypal shipped to Co US.
Then I went to test some porsche 964 close nut - consider they are track oriented, I hoped certain strength. When they arrived, I felt they are light as plastics and my life is at risk! However, after 2 rotations / 1 year, they proved to sustain well at 133 lbs with hard city miles (include hard brakes that leave tire prints on the pavement - the previous car's brake light is always ON!). For the lock, I also get a set (porsche 964) using conventional cover-on-nut lock. Both should be available on the bay, nuts + working locks with key + cover should cost less than 100 (buy separately). This make installation a charm by tighten 5 nuts, and then put on the cover-stype lock (metal) with a conventional key. I put some lock tight inside the keyhole, in case the rubber cover came of due to aging. No lock is absolute safe - this will make thieves spend extra time and damage a socket per lock.
After 4 rotations / 2 years, non of the lug became loose - when remove, I use a break bar and then a battery powered impact, and when install, I do the initial tighten using the same Dewalt 20V battery impact to about 80-90 lb ft, and then torque tighten to 133 lb ft. So far feels happy.
Studs x 20 (of your own choice, use strong ones)
Nuts x 20 (or 16 + 4 locks)
Loctite medium strength.
Tools et al: Deep socket (19mm - 17 or 21 depends on the nut you chose). Wrenchlet / torque wrench (~25 lb ft, optional ) Brake cleaner (12 oz bottle bottle). Compressed air.
Steps are standard:
1. Check the wheels, jack up the car, on jack stand.
2. Use brake cleaner to clean the bolt holes on hub, and use compressed air dry completely.
3. Put two nuts on one lug, apply loctite, screw in (about 7 mm), and tighten to 20-30 lb-ft (if you use a 8″ wrenclet, tighten by hand is about that strong).
4. Repeat 3 for other wheels and your loctite to settle.
5. Put on wheel and nut – by hand for this time, and tighten to spec (2014 lux indicate 133 lb ft – that’s a lot).
6. Let loctite set over night.
7. Test drive it, re-tighten after a week - some nuts will get loose.