Control arms removal replacement DIY ?? - Club Touareg Forums
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post #1 of 74 Old 01-30-2013 Thread Starter
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Control arms removal replacement DIY ??

Just about to tackle the lower control arms as the rear bush on the passengers side is super shot. Any pointers advice from anyone who's tackled it themselves would be awesome.

Hopefully the balljoints can be removed with the driveshaft still in the hub, clearance looks close.

New Genuine arms, these are hefty buggers , solid heavy steel.







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post #2 of 74 Old 01-30-2013
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Only tip I can offer is to only tighten all the bolts that go through the rubber bushings, once the car is resting on it's own weight. That ensures that at rest the bushings are not under stress and will last a lot longer.

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post #3 of 74 Old 01-30-2013
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Be careful, there is procedure to follow like curbe weight position or you will damage your rubber bushings. Also proper torques is a must.

Lower control arm to subframe Self locking nut Use new nut 180 Nm

Strut to lower control arm Use new bolt and nut 150 Nm + 90

Lower control arm to wheel bearing housing Self locking nut Use new nut 105 Nm

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post #4 of 74 Old 01-30-2013
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Not to be a ass here but do you all think the dealships techs torque all of these to spec? Doubtful...maybe on engine parts and such but not on suspension bolts..I'm sure the tighten them with a air impact n go. The only reason I can see them torquing anything is if it is going into aluminum and that is only so they don't rip out the threads...tight is right on suspension parts..just sayin....

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post #5 of 74 Old 01-30-2013
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If you don't do a lot of DIY, use a torque wrench. If you do a lot of DIY then you get a feel fro where the bolts takes and goes tight without stripping threads.

Using a torque wrench can be dangerous as the bolt may be oily and the torque value could be a dry value. You aim for the torque value but never get there as the oil is lubricating the bolt and before you get there, the threads strip.

Engine build - yes, you must torque it but work in stages to pick up over torquing.

Suspension and other stuff, get the feel for it. When possible work with clean oil free bolts and threads.

All vw/audi engines must use 507.00 spec oil except non-DPF R5/V10 engines that must use 505.01/506.01
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post #6 of 74 Old 01-31-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4ePikanini View Post
If you don't do a lot of DIY, use a torque wrench. If you do a lot of DIY then you get a feel fro where the bolts takes and goes tight without stripping threads.

Using a torque wrench can be dangerous as the bolt may be oily and the torque value could be a dry value. You aim for the torque value but never get there as the oil is lubricating the bolt and before you get there, the threads strip.

Engine build - yes, you must torque it but work in stages to pick up over torquing.

Suspension and other stuff, get the feel for it. When possible work with clean oil free bolts and threads.
I agree with the non use of a torque wrench and the feel for how tight a bolt should be, as with most people who do a fair bit of spanner work learn.

Just to throw in another perspective i always use lube and mainly anti-seize on my bolts, makes them eaiser to undo later and generally is IMHO good bolting practice.
When using the hand tension method you get the feel for how tight.

(Not like with some, The method is tighten till it strips then back it off half a turn. )

regards
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post #7 of 74 Old 02-01-2013
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I do not know for sure but Alex, you are likely going to need a special spanner to remove one of the nuts and bolts on the control arm. The repair manual suggested it as there may be clearance problems with the left bushings of both control arms in the picture.
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post #8 of 74 Old 02-01-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SamT View Post
I do not know for sure but Alex, you are likely going to need a special spanner to remove one of the nuts and bolts on the control arm. The repair manual suggested it as there may be clearance problems with the left bushings of both control arms in the picture.
Sam if your talking about the spanner shown in the VW tech info im sure you dont really need it to undo the bolts normal tools will do it

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post #9 of 74 Old 02-02-2013 Thread Starter
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All done , straight forward really , the hardest bit was getting my Ball joint separator to work , basically had to open it up to fit the large ball joints. Second hardest thing , getting the ball joint out of the hub. It basically pushes against the driveshaft/inner cv and takes a certain angle to separate it.

I don't know how you would use a torque wrench on the control arm to subframe bolts as you can't fit anything more than a ring spanner in there.

The old bushes and ballpoint were stuffed to put it mildly. Feels so tight and crisp now. Just in time for some wheelin tomorrow.






Camber/castor bolts. Need to do a wheel alignment but seems not bad. Just set them a bit more negative than from when I started. Due to the new lift.





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post #10 of 74 Old 02-02-2013
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Lookin' good!
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