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Control arms removal replacement DIY ??

68K views 74 replies 24 participants last post by  gazaflash 
#1 ·
Just about to tackle the lower control arms as the rear bush on the passengers side is super shot. Any pointers advice from anyone who's tackled it themselves would be awesome.

Hopefully the balljoints can be removed with the driveshaft still in the hub, clearance looks close.

New Genuine arms, these are hefty buggers , solid heavy steel.







 
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#2 ·
Only tip I can offer is to only tighten all the bolts that go through the rubber bushings, once the car is resting on it's own weight. That ensures that at rest the bushings are not under stress and will last a lot longer.
 
#3 ·
Be careful, there is procedure to follow like curbe weight position or you will damage your rubber bushings. Also proper torques is a must.

Lower control arm to subframe Self locking nut Use new nut 180 Nm

Strut to lower control arm Use new bolt and nut 150 Nm + 90 °

Lower control arm to wheel bearing housing Self locking nut Use new nut 105 Nm
 
#4 ·
Not to be a ass here but do you all think the dealships techs torque all of these to spec? Doubtful...maybe on engine parts and such but not on suspension bolts..I'm sure the tighten them with a air impact n go. The only reason I can see them torquing anything is if it is going into aluminum and that is only so they don't rip out the threads...tight is right on suspension parts..just sayin....
 
#5 ·
If you don't do a lot of DIY, use a torque wrench. If you do a lot of DIY then you get a feel fro where the bolts takes and goes tight without stripping threads.

Using a torque wrench can be dangerous as the bolt may be oily and the torque value could be a dry value. You aim for the torque value but never get there as the oil is lubricating the bolt and before you get there, the threads strip.

Engine build - yes, you must torque it but work in stages to pick up over torquing.

Suspension and other stuff, get the feel for it. When possible work with clean oil free bolts and threads.
 
#6 ·
If you don't do a lot of DIY, use a torque wrench. If you do a lot of DIY then you get a feel fro where the bolts takes and goes tight without stripping threads.

Using a torque wrench can be dangerous as the bolt may be oily and the torque value could be a dry value. You aim for the torque value but never get there as the oil is lubricating the bolt and before you get there, the threads strip.

Engine build - yes, you must torque it but work in stages to pick up over torquing.

Suspension and other stuff, get the feel for it. When possible work with clean oil free bolts and threads.
I agree with the non use of a torque wrench and the feel for how tight a bolt should be, as with most people who do a fair bit of spanner work learn.

Just to throw in another perspective i always use lube and mainly anti-seize on my bolts, makes them eaiser to undo later and generally is IMHO good bolting practice.
When using the hand tension method you get the feel for how tight.

(Not like with some, The method is tighten till it strips then back it off half a turn. )

regards
drag
 
#7 ·
I do not know for sure but Alex, you are likely going to need a special spanner to remove one of the nuts and bolts on the control arm. The repair manual suggested it as there may be clearance problems with the left bushings of both control arms in the picture.
 
#9 ·
All done , straight forward really , the hardest bit was getting my Ball joint separator to work , basically had to open it up to fit the large ball joints. Second hardest thing , getting the ball joint out of the hub. It basically pushes against the driveshaft/inner cv and takes a certain angle to separate it.

I don't know how you would use a torque wrench on the control arm to subframe bolts as you can't fit anything more than a ring spanner in there.

The old bushes and ballpoint were stuffed to put it mildly. Feels so tight and crisp now. Just in time for some wheelin tomorrow.






Camber/castor bolts. Need to do a wheel alignment but seems not bad. Just set them a bit more negative than from when I started. Due to the new lift.





 
#11 ·
Thank you for the notes. What kind of ball joint separator did you use?

Also, the clearance problem was likely the reason why VW suggested the special spanner. I like to torque things to specifications and will have to find a way to do that when the time comes.


I don't know how you would use a torque wrench on the control arm to subframe bolts as you can't fit anything more than a ring spanner in there.

The old bushes and ballpoint were stuffed to put it mildly. Feels so tight and crisp now. Just in time for some wheelin tomorrow.
 
#10 ·
Lookin' good!
 
#12 ·
This style.



You can see how much I had to open it up here.



It's not ideal as the ball joint is mounted upside down. The vw special part works in reverse of my one.



Here is the only style torque wrench that would work. A small fortune I would imagine.



With

 
#14 ·
Thank you again Alex! That T10187 VW ball joint puller is a Snap-on part at about $100. I will modify one too when the time comes.

VW does sell replacement bushings. The rear one on the control arm is a hydro-mount (about $80 usd), the front one just rubber bonded $40, but the rubber bonded one next to the ball joint is about $140 for some odd reason!

It appears that buying the whole control arm (about $390) is a better deal than trying to replace the bushings; otherwise the control arm will still have the old ball joint.

^ I do have some crowfeet and the next time I change oil I will give it a try and see if that works.
 
#15 ·
Ah yes crows feet , would definately work on the rear, and possible on the front.
Please note that you need to torque the nut side ( which you should always be doing anyway) as the bolt is you eccentric camber bolt.

Did I mention how sorted the car feels , took it out for some trails yesterday and had a blast.
 
#19 ·
Did your upper ball joint DIY job go forward, Alex? If so, where did you line up the replacement? AFAIK, VW only sells this ball joint as part of the upper control arm assembly. Thanks--Chris
 
#21 ·
Thanks Alex! That's what I figured.

Of course, now that I've committed to do the upper, it looks like the lower is bad too...
 
#22 ·
I just ran across this thread and seen you were thinking of doing a drop arm with removable ball joints and was wondering if you know the size of ball joint, or maybe where to find one the same size. I have been thinking that when mine go, I will try to make up some custom control arms.
 
#23 ·
Lower Control Arm - help with ball joint re-fitting!!

Great thread this one - lots of useful advice.

I am no mechanic, but am currently replacing the RHF lower and upper control arms on a VW Touareg '04 V8. (The left side was done not long ago).

Managed to get both the top and bottom off with little trouble - just needed a bit of help from some American screwdrivers for the lower ball joint, but no biggie. I then refitted the upper control arm and am now COMPLETELY STUCK on the lower control arm - specifically the ball joint not having enough clearance between its hole and the CV hub.

I have spent several hours with a mate (in the rain lol) trying to wiggle the thing into some magic position where the ball joint's "bolt sleeve' has enough angle and room to be located in the correct position.....with no success.

Any suggestions?

From another thread on this site it seems some other people have solved this problem by grinding away the small 'nipple' thing on the top of the ball joint. From what I can measure, it is within 1 - 2 mm of the one that came off the car, so I am not so confident that it is necessary?? (or actually 'that' different in size).

What do you guys think?

Thanks for the assistance!
 
#24 ·
It does go in.
From memory I popped the top ball joint and pushed the hub towards the front and inward of the vehicle and then brought the control arm up front the rear angle, sort of scooping it in.
I did look at it for a while and struggled for a while but there is a sweet spot.
 
#26 ·
Cheers for the speedy replies Alex and Drag,

From Alex's nice pics I'm thinking the problem is simply down to multiple suppliers producing the same part. Obviously Alex has the swanky genuine bits, but I believe there are several other suppliers? My arms are non-genuine, and I guess there would likely be more 'slightly out-of-spec' units coming from these non-genuine suppliers. This in turn may explain why some people are having different experiences when trying to replace the arms.

Either way, I think the arm 'should' fit, but as I have an angle grinder handy I will likely give that a go as I've spent too long on this already.

Is there anything I should be concerned about when removing the 'nipple'?
I am assuming that taking that small 1-2 mm piece of metal off would not expose anything underneath, or do anything much other than allowing me to get the arm in more easily?

The LH side lower control arm that was replaced recently was aluminium for the record. I don't believe there were any issues getting that one in.

Thanks again for the assistance and I'll let you guys know how I go!
 
#28 ·
Cheers for the speedy replies Alex and Drag,

From Alex's nice pics I'm thinking the problem is simply down to multiple suppliers producing the same part. Obviously Alex has the swanky genuine bits, but I believe there are several other suppliers? My arms are non-genuine, and I guess there would likely be more 'slightly out-of-spec' units coming from these non-genuine suppliers. This in turn may explain why some people are having different experiences when trying to replace the arms.

Either way, I think the arm 'should' fit, but as I have an angle grinder handy I will likely give that a go as I've spent too long on this already.

Is there anything I should be concerned about when removing the 'nipple'?
I am assuming that taking that small 1-2 mm piece of metal off would not expose anything underneath, or do anything much other than allowing me to get the arm in more easily?

The LH side lower control arm that was replaced recently was aluminium for the record. I don't believe there were any issues getting that one in.

Thanks again for the assistance and I'll let you guys know how I go!
No all good just take a little and try it then maybe a bit more. Mine needed the same and they were Meyle arms not genuine

Regards
Drag
 
#29 ·
Completed the lower control arm swap today, far from a walk in the park! Removal went as I expected and having followed this thread I was ready to hunt for the "sweet spot" during assembly. I studied very carefully how the old unit came out, I put the old one back in several time while measuring my after market arms for any variations.
My finding is this:
I believe that the old unit is easy to get in and out due to the very loose condition of the ball joint. The replacement arms and the corresponding new ball joints are extremely stiff and difficult to manipulate. I worked every conceivable angle for a couple of hours with no success.
Solution:
Following the advise of Drag and others I ground the nipple off the top, touched it up with primer, and slid it in with very little effort.
Side bar:
My bushings were in much better shape than hoped. The ball joints were very loose so I hope to realize improvement after the alignment tomorrow.
 
#30 ·
This is an old thread but ...

Today I noticed a bad tie rod end when doing an oil change. Since my '04 has over 100k miles, I am thinking it makes sense just to do the entire front end kit which includes the tie rod assemblies along with upper lower control arms, etc..

Is there anything special I need to do with air suspension before I start pulling parts off.

I can get kit with control arms from Meyle or TRW for about the same price, Lemforder a bit more. Any preferences?

Thanks,

Mike
 
#31 ·
I am about to tackle upper / lower control arms on my 04 with Air suspension.

Unfortunately, the a-holes at PhotoBucket disabled photos (or more appropriately is holding them hostage for ransom) from this and thousands of other forums (without warning to forum owners).

Can anyone point me to a good write up.

Thanks.
 
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