DIY Oil Change for 4.2L V8

[ZippySLC]

I'm just wondering how they're going to get the old plug out. The hole is completely rounded out now. (Yes, I'm an idiot.)

It has to go to the dealer anyway because I'm having them look at the transmission. Obviously, though, I'd rather do it cheaper, but doing it on the cheap kind of got me in this mess to begin with.

[Flatliner]

A trick I have done in the past on hex bolts is to use the next size up and lightly tap it in the hole, with some finesse it usually works. Good luck with the fix.

[ZippySLC]

It's at the dealer now. They're looking at it and "hoping" that the threads in the pan aren't stripped. I have a feeling they're looking to ding me for a new pan.

[nltomba]

then take it somewhere else first

[ZippySLC]

Dealer got the plug out, no drama. $98 later the oil was changed and new bolts installed. Phew.

[serious]

I'll be honest, I haven't bother to look through the 7 pages of this thread, but just wanted to add an update in case someone else comes across the same issues I ran into:

1. Torx heads that I encountered were actually T-27s, not T-25s. Best to have a full set, just in case.
2. This was my first oil change on this vehicle and obviously the ass that had it before me or the VW technician he took it to didn't know what they were doing and stripped out the 6mm hex head on the oil filter's drain plug. No worries though, although a bit messier, you can just pull the entire assembly off with the 36mm socket and a flat pan beneath to get the oil that will gush from the sides into your catch-can.

Smart idea about the tin-foil, however, make sure you definitely put it around the cross-members, sway-bar, mounts and axle - especially if you have the same trouble as I did with the filter.

Also, my local dealer (Liberty - Rapid City, South Dakota) didn't have the crush washers in their computer by stock/part number. I took a gamble that paid off by rummaging through a bin of new, though unpackaged, crush washers they had in stock and matched them against a extra drain plug they had in stock.

With my unfamiliarity of this undercarriage, this took me about 2 hours - I took my time to learn this underbody well so that it should take half the time or less on the next turn in 3K miles.

Next time and perhaps on future work, I will take hi-resolution photos for everyone with my Nikon D200. I would have this time, but it took me awhile to find 0W-40 Mobil 1 Synthetic locally which put me in a time crunch with the base's auto-hobby garage when getting it up on the lift (the best/most efficient way of changing this beast's oil IMHO).

[serious]

Originally Posted by Flatliner

A trick I have done in the past on hex bolts is to use the next size up and lightly tap it in the hole, with some finesse it usually works. Good luck with the fix.

This method didn't work in my case, there is a fairly vast difference between the 7mm and the 6mm the filter head takes. He could have gone standard measure, though I feel that's what the asshat that took mine off before did and that is how it got screwed up.

[saralpug]

TM,
Did you go ahead and use the Mobile1 0W40 synthetic oil. It is also the only one I could find locally that met the VW spec. Seem OK ?
Thanks
Rich

[Chicostyk]

Rich,
Your question wasn't directed to me, but I wanted to reply. I have used the Mobile1 0W40 for the past 4000 miles and am preparing for my next oil change soon. No complaints at this point. I was able to find only two oils in my local stores that have the VW spec on them, Castrol Syntec SAE 0W-30(AutoZone) and Mobile1 0W40(Pep Boys, Wal Mart, Auto Zone, Advanced, and others). The standard price is $6.99/qt. Wal Mart had the Mobile1 0W40 70 cents less per quart than everyone else which is like getting 1 quart free and since I have no complaints I chose Mobile1 again.

Good luck to you.

[saralpug]

Thanks for the feedback, it's very helpful.
See ya
Rich