DIY Oil Change for 4.2L V8 - Page 4 - Club Touareg Forums
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post #31 of 174 Old 01-27-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gray Matter View Post
I had a thought last night as I lay in bed after reading this thread; When draining the oil, why not use a heavy-duty trash bag to catch it instead of letting it splash everywhere? Has anyone tried this?

Maybe it's a hairbrained idea, but here's what I'm thinking; You place the bottom of the trash bag in a sufficiently-sized oil pan, then using duct tape or gaffer's tape, tape the opening of the bag to the underside of the oil pan around the drain plug. You would obviously want to loosen the drain plug first with the allen wrench, but once it is loose, you could simply unscrew it by hand while it is inside the bag. It would fall into the bag when it comes out but it could easily be retrieved when the oil is finished draining. It would probably be a good idea to hold the top of the bag where it is taped to the pan, just in case the weight of the sudden oil deluge causes it to pull free of the pan. When finished, find the drain plug in the bag and remove it, drain the other sump, replace drain plugs and cut a hole in the bottom of the bag to let the oil drain into the pan.

What do you think? Seems like it might work, in theory. If I get a chance to do it soon, I'll post the results or edit this post if it turns out to be impractical.
I usually have the oil fairly warm, if not hot, during changes. Oil can hold a lot of heat, so I'd be concerned about it melting a hole in a plastic bag, even if you use the heavy-duty 'contractors' bag. But it's worth a try! Let us know how you make out.

T-M
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post #32 of 174 Old 02-03-2009
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Do you recommend the 40000 mile service from dealer?
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post #33 of 174 Old 02-11-2009
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I finally had good weather to do my first oil change and thought I'd add a few comments. (...and lament a couple of things...)

The trashbag idea for minimizing the drain plug deluge was abandoned in favor of modifying the following funnel by cutting off the end, ensuring the opening was at least 1 inch in diameter. It worked perfectly. I was able to hold it under both drain plugs (and the filter housing) to direct the flow into a ~3 gallon bucket.



I also wanted to point out that one could use a t-30 bit for the majority of the belly pan screws in lieu of a 10mm socket. The tools list should include a t-25 and t-30, if you choose to go that route. The advantage here is that you can use a cordless drill (variable speed, of course) to remove and reinstall the screws rather than the slower wrenching method. This does mean you'd have to be careful not to over-torque them. (Those pictured below are for a 1/4" drive socket, but torx bits are available for drill chucks too.)



On a less positive note; my heart just sank when I saw the condition of the filter, and the sludge that had accumulated inside at the bottom. I'm seriously worried about the health of this engine now. The previous owner clearly neglected it in stellar fashion. I may try to find a lab of some sort which can analyze it for me and tell me what it is. The bit I scooped out with a screwdriver looked like bearing grease.





The filter itself looked pretty bad, as though whatever moron installed it didn't put it all the way in the canister housing, shoved it on, it bound, then twisted...



This is pretty bad... In all the countless oil changes I've performed on my other vehicles over the years, I have never seen a filter in this condition.





The other thing I discovered is that my rear belly pan is missing the NACA duct pictured in the second photo below. Do all Tregs have them? What is its purpose? I looked above the belly pan in that location and didn't see any type of tranny cooler or other device which might be fed by a NACA duct.



Photo from this thread:




-Hope the first part of this post helps someone... As for the rest of the post...well...input is appreciated.
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-Chris
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post #34 of 174 Old 02-12-2009
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Ouch. That looks like that oil filter (and maybe the oil) had never been changed.
Go to amsoil.com. They have a cleaning detergent. Do what it says. I think drain enough oil to replace the detergent with. idle for 20 min and then drain it all.
New filter and new oil. I use amsoil too (eurospec oil) and I have absolutely no sludge
In my treg I change every 10k but in my previous expedition I changed oil every 30k! and no sludge.
Amsoil is very good at cleaning your engine out and preventing sludge

I am also running it in my wife's accord hybrid but with a different weight. It has been in there now for 16k and will be changed at 25k

My tregs engine is now at 100k and runs strong. Trannie gets a little iffie though
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post #35 of 174 Old 02-12-2009
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Alright - so this question may make me sound like an idiot, but is it possible to use one of those simple machines that drains the oil out of the pan through the dipstick tube? I have never used the system but I have to believe that it would not only allow you to clean out the old oil but also remove most debris? Whether or not it gets every ounce of oil out is a different question. Then all that would be required is to remove the oil filter? Does this make the job any easier? or is it less effective than a regular oil change.

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post #36 of 174 Old 02-12-2009
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mattyv, you can't use an oil extractor on a V8, because it actually has two sumps, and two drain plugs. You wouldn't be able to extract oil from one of the sumps that way. Besides, you still need to get under it to change the filter anyway, at least on the non-FSI V6 and V8. Not sure on the other models.

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post #37 of 174 Old 02-12-2009
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Thanks Matt!

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post #38 of 174 Old 02-17-2009
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Yuck! I don't think synthetic oil will gunk up like that, anybody know for sure? Considering the condition of the filter I'd be willing to bet that non-synthetic was used. Don't mention to VW or they will surely void the warranty!

You might want to send that oil off to get it analyzed and see how bad it is. I use these guys, costs $22.50: Blackstone Laboratories.

I like to use a 10mm socket on the cover bolts, I just find it easier to get the socket on the boltheads. I also remove only the rear part, the front hangs down far enough to be out of the way, on the '07s anyway. I think on the '04-'06 you have to take both off to reach the filter and front sump drain.

My '07 V-8 does not have the NACA duct, even though the cover has the cutout and mounting holes.

You can use a suction tube to change the oil on the FSI ('07 and later) V-8 as it has a single sump. You can on the standard V-6 as well. But NOT on the '04-'06 V-8. Don't know about the TDI V-10 or V-6. But personally I like to drain it from the bottom.

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post #39 of 174 Old 02-18-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Man View Post
You might want to send that oil off to get it analyzed and see how bad it is. I use these guys, costs $22.50: Blackstone Laboratories.
Thanks for the reply; Already ordered the kit... Posted in this thread.

-Chris
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post #40 of 174 Old 03-13-2009
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I'm about to do my first oil change on my '04 V8, question, is there anything special about the washers? Can I pick them up at hardware store?


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