Winch, where and how to mount - Club Touareg Forums
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post #1 of 37 Old 03-20-2017 Thread Starter
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Question Winch, where and how to mount

Hi All, especially those of you who are varying engineering minded,

Putting this question out there to all although I know Steve Hedditch has done this. We had a quick chat during last years Buckenderra freezer-wetter-wind-athon Muster however I'd like to see/know how this has been done.

Does anyone have schematics, design and list of materials with accompanying photos of mounting a winch to a T2?

Which winch was used?

I'm really interested in doing this modification.
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post #2 of 37 Old 03-28-2017
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Hi SpaceSaver,

I see no-one has answered you in a week so I'm going to!

If you go to the Technical Forum and type in Winch, or perhaps winch plate, you will get threads on what people have done to mount a winch.

There was a VW winch mount that replaced the front crash bar completely, but though you will find pdf instructions on how to mount it somewhere on the forum, it does not have a part number and Solitaire (the Adelaide dealer) tried to find it for me but could not. Looks like it was for the T1 and is either not being produced anymore or being produced expensively somewhere in Eastern Europe or Russia!

Most of the Australian Treggers who have fitted a winch seem to have attached a winch plate to the front crash bar, and I'm following their example. I bought a crash bar off the front of a breaking T1 for AU$100 and I am having some mounts made up as per the attached photo (taken from a previous post) to allow a jeep winch plate to be bolted on. I'm then going to mount a Warn ZEON Platinum 10-S winch with synthetic rope. I'm using that winch as it is completely wireless controlled. Expensive, but means it can be hidden away without the need to reach in and engage a clutch.

My immediate problem was trying to find the Jeep winch plate as no-one in Aus seems to stock them, so in the end I have ordered it from the USA (a Westin T-Max Winch Mount Tray WES47-3104) from Morris 4x4. When it arrives and the bar is ready to install, I'll post some photos.

Regards, Mike.
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post #3 of 37 Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Ok, four weeks since I posted and the winch is installed!

The Jeep winch plate arrived from Morris 4x4 in the USA. Here is a picture of it with the crash bar:


I had the crash bar modified with mounts for the plate in a similar way that forum member Fawlty did for his winch. Here it is from the top:


And here it is from underneath:


This is a close up of one of the top mounts:


And this is a close up of the underside:


I gave it a zinc undercoat:


And then painted it black:


I dismantled the front grill and bumper, took off the existing crash bar and fitted the fabricated winch bar:


I had to cut out the rear of the winch plate a little on each side to take the turbo intercooler (?) pipes and I cut the front support for the bonnet locking mechanism so that it now rests on a piece of rubber on the top of the winch housing. I also had to cut the bottom off the plastic air deflectors so that they now sit on the winch plate. This is the deflector on the off side of the car ... the gaffa tape covers repairs I had made to the deflector which had shattered in a previous hit the bumper had sustained in a car park!



Here is the Warn winch during installation:


Here it is with the front plastic bumper support back in place:


And here is the finished installation:



There was plenty of room to install the winch, and the bulk of it sits behind the numberplate where there is no air intake. The top of the winch sits below the upper grill, so it does not interfere with air flow there, and the plastic angled deflectors, mentioned earlier, pick up air each side of the fairlead, directing air to the radiators behind the winch. I've had no overheating problems so far.

I chose the Warn Zeon Platinum 10s Winch (10,000lb/4,545 kg pull) as it has a wireless remote control and doesn't need manual clutch release. The wireless activation button on the back of the winch has to be left on for wireless operation and the switch has a flashing green led light, so there is a small current drain ... I don't think it will be a problem for the house battery and if I don't plan to use the winch for months, I can pop out the VW badge and reach in to switch the wireless off.

The Warn fairlead is huge, but it just fits in the lower grill!

Cheers, Mike
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post #4 of 37 Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Nice job. Photos tell the story so much better too!

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A bit about the electrical connection of the winch... in the photo's posted earlier you will see that there is a red positive cable, covered with a black plastic conduit, and a black negative cable. These exit on the right hand side at the back of the winch and I fed them up to the truncated bonnet lock support and then out into the engine compartment through a small gap at the top of the radiator space on the left of the car (facing forward). All suitably cable-tied to stop any rubbing of the cables on the dreaded outback corregations!

The cables are designed to fit directly on to a battery in the engine compartment, so that's a problem on the Treg as there isn't one there! However, the cables are long enough to feed around the engine compartment to the positive terminal in the compartment. There is a black plastic terminal box beside the positive jump-start terminal (the one with the red plastic cover). If you open the terminal box, there are three positive cables there, one running directly from the under-seat house battery. The positive cable from the winch can enter that box at a convenient opening at the rear, and I attached it to the centre (large) lug of the three in the box.

The negative cable is more of a problem as it comes with a tag on it saying "Do not connect to vehicle body/chassis - connect directly to negative terminal of the battery". That's a bugger, as the negative jump start post in the engine compartment is not directly connected to the battery by cable, it is just screwed on to the metal body. There is no direct negative battery cable in the engine compartment, so I had to go to 12Volt Mt. Barker and buy 3m of matching cable that I bolted to the winch negative cable to extend it.

There is a small hole with rubber grommet in the top corner of the engine compartment which allows the cable to be fed into the fuse box area at the base of the windscreen, along between the fuse box and bonnet hinge, and through another small grommeted hole in the firewall into the cabin. With a bit of fiddling (and dropping the black panel under the dash in the passenger footwell helps) the cable can then run down behind the fuses inside the car, across the front of the footwell and along the centre tunnel under the carpet to the battery box under the seat to the negative post of the battery. Yes, and the extra 3m of cable just reached! Feeding it around was the hardest part of the whole process!

If you have changed the house battery, you will know how to access it ... if not, there is a "how to" description on this forum.

Cheers, Mike.
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Good work Mike, little more peace of mind when headed solo somewhere off the black stuff, must admit it is on my bucket list.
Also thanks for sharing the tip re the cables under the jump start +'ve post, didn't hear that one before, I'm sure it will come handy in the future

Did you get the version with the dyneema rope to cut back on unnecessary extra weight up front?

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Hi TonyB,

The Warn Zeon Platinum 10S comes with 100 ft (30.48m) of synthetic rope ... Warn call it "Spydura". Looks expensive stuff, which is worrying as the Warn manual recommends it is replaced every 12 months! In 5 years I've never had to use my MaxTrax or Tred's for recovery, and have only used my recovery bridle and one of my snatch straps once, so I doubt I will be following Warn's replacement advice about the rope!

Warn's winch names give the game away ... the 10 stands for 10,000lb pull and the S stands for synthetic. Also, viewed from the front, if a winch has a roller fairlead it will have a wire cable, and if it has a hawse fairlead (no rollers) it will have a synthetic rope. Unless of course the owner is using the wrong fairlead and does not know that you should not use rollers with synthetic rope because of the risk of the rope jamming in the rollers and being pinch damaged!

Some numbers for you:

VW's front crash bar weighs 10 kg naked, and with the plate mount mods now weighs 15.45 kg.
The Westin winch mounting plate weighs 7.70 kg and the six nuts and bolts 0.52kg. The winch itself, with rope and fairlead comes in at 34 kg. So, the added weight up front totals 47.67 kg

Having approx 48kg extra hanging out in front, I can feel the extra weight in the steering ... it's just as precise, but feels a little more sluggish ... but maybe I'm just imagining it!

Cheers, Mike.
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I wonder if an extra couple of psi or so in the front tyres might help?

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Hi Nooby,

Yep, I'll try that ... perhaps front and back to keep the tyre rolling circumferences the same ... as you have warned in the past!

Cheers, Mike.
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